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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 11-26-2006, 01:28 PM
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Default What a beauty, but really that much?

I met a collector that has this car (Olthoff-built in '04) and he claims he's into the car for over $105K, it has 215 miles on the odo.
I was going to offer $80K but maybe I'm unrealistic...? I guess all he can say is no but he's got 2 Ferraris on the way...
Roush 402 with T56, nice radio in it.
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Old 11-26-2006, 01:47 PM
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$105 seems like a lot. Especially when you can order a new one from a dealer in Georgia for around $85,000. For $105 you can get a turnkey Superformance GT40, from the same dealer.
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Old 11-26-2006, 01:50 PM
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Yeah, and at 215 miles, it's probably not quite sorted out yet so might as well get a new turnkey, huh? Could you PM me the contact info on that dealer? The well-known one in NC wants about $96K.
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SPF#1052 11mpg
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'94 35th Anniversary Rover Mini Cooper 32mpg
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Old 11-26-2006, 01:55 PM
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Sometimes it comes down to 'timing'. Perhaps you want\need it NOW for whatever reason. The car is available, is the color you want and has the right specs for you. Some are willing to pay a premium if it all comes together cleanly.

Me? I'd pass, I have more patience than money. I also like a car that HAS been 'sorted out', one with a few thousand miles would be ideal.
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Old 11-26-2006, 02:13 PM
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It seems a bit high to me but, without knowing how much Dennis charged for the install, I can only compare it to my SPF coupe which has a Roush aluminim 427 with 8 stack digital fuel injection (DFI), a lot of sorting out and improvements including removeable tranny cross brace, reworked seats and leather tunnel, power windows, remote door and hatch latches all around, stereo, undertray, etc., etc. I did my own install and sorting out so all I have are material costs which came to around $100,000 excluding sales taxes. The aluminum 427 and DFI add about $15,000 to the sales price of a basic Roush engine (candidly well worth it if you're going to keep the car and spread the cost out over the years you intend to own it and you won't end up saying "I wish I got the 427" and /or "DFI"). That said, the material cost alone for a SPF coupe with a basic engine package is about $85,000. Assuming install is $10,000 and however much more to sort out (and, yes, there is a fair amount of sorting out), I would figure a basic sorted out coupe to cost under $100,000 excluding taxes.
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Old 11-26-2006, 02:51 PM
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Timing IS everything, Excaliber. Thanks for reminding me about the virtue of patience I've been window shopping for a Coupe to complete my dream of a Shelby garage and I've never really seen the SPF Coupe up close. I saw 2 this past holiday weekend and I was thoroughly impressed by the fit and finish. I didn't get to drive 1 but I will.

rc, appreciate the numbers. Very helpful to have in the back pocket in my quest. I agree on the alloy 427 but I may go for 4X48IDAs instead of the DFI. I realize the advantages of DFI but I've installed Webers on my GT40 and I think I can handle the stress of sorting them out The digital part of FI intimidates me more...
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'94 35th Anniversary Rover Mini Cooper 32mpg
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'08 Volvo S80 18mpg
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Old 11-26-2006, 03:30 PM
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I also have a Ferrari Daytona spyder with 6 dual throat Webers and, while balancing 12 velocity stacks is time consuming, it does run smooth once warmed up but it doesn't compare to the smoothness and balance of the DFI. Don't get me wrong, I love the sight of 8 velocity stacks on top of 4 dual throat Webers (not as nice as 12 but still very nice) and if authenticity was the goal, ie, a McCluskey Daytona coupe, that would be the way to go but with a SPF Brock/Shelby Daytona coupe authenticity isn't the goal, driveability is. Roush programs/maps the DFI and all you have to do is install it. I suppose it could be better, anything can, so once the warranty is up and, if you want, you can go into the program and remap it. However, Roush already spent a lot of time sorting it out so you have to ask yourself if you really need to. You can go in before the warranty is up but then you'll void the warranty. My car lights up every time, even when cold, is smooth through the entire RPM range, is driveable in LA fereeway stop and go traffic, driveable at low R's, great on the track, smooth right up to the rev limiter - which comes far too quickly it revs so fast. So, having driven both set-ups quite a bit, I have to admit that the DFI is far superior on both the road and the track.
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Old 11-26-2006, 04:05 PM
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Ray, I looked at a SPF coupe before I got the GT40 and it was a well sorted out unit with a nice stroked Roush motor (carbed). I passed since I just cant get passed the rear end but it probably is more practical than the 40. It sold for 74K.That was about 8 months ago. I think 105 is way much for that car. There are quite a few out there and one will pop up with your name on it. chuck
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Old 11-27-2006, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ENTDOC
Ray, I looked at a SPF coupe before I got the GT40 and it was a well sorted out unit with a nice stroked Roush motor (carbed). I passed since I just cant get passed the rear end but it probably is more practical than the 40. It sold for 74K.That was about 8 months ago. I think 105 is way much for that car. There are quite a few out there and one will pop up with your name on it. chuck
I know what you're saying about the rear

...and the GT40. I love mine and love driving it but I would never get away with driving it anywhere within 10 miles of NYC. The coupe may even be driveable into the city. And I don't think it would be cop bait like the GT40 is (last 4 times I had it out, I got stopped each time) It is really a modern car the way Pete Brock has re-designed it. What a gorgeaus car in any color. I'm in love but I think I'll wait for the "right one".
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Old 11-26-2006, 06:12 PM
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I love that read end! Simple, smooth, nice shape.

...one mans poison...
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Old 11-26-2006, 07:52 PM
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looks good on a boat. but as you say....
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Old 11-30-2006, 08:20 AM
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Hi JC, good price for the motor especilly if it includes the correct pulleys, alternator, etc. Better price for the 4 IDA48's. Even better price for the install knowing all that is entailed. Is the install kit that you're referring to Dennis Olthoff's kit? Functional sidepipes (SPC calls "race" pipes) are an exchange for the rear exit pipes. I have both and, although the rear exits are quieter, the open pipes are more, I hate to use the term, macho and I left them on. With the open side pipes you don't have all the garbage of the extra plumbing, "H" and "S" pipes, so you can fabricate and install a full undertray for better aerodynamics. . . . And, the coupe is also a cop magnet, especially with the open side pipes so you have to watch how you drive. The speedo is numbered in 40 mph increments on a small faced gage which fools you into thinking you're not going as fast as you actually are going and you can't tell from the car how fast you're going because 100+ seems like 60 mph but for all of the traffic you're passing and how fast.
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