Issue with Expansion Tank - Page 2

KevinW · #1 (**permalink**) 01-05-2017, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lineslinger

Without the spacer the edge of the E tank was just barely resting against one of the electrodes on the dizzy. It wouldn't take a much time for engine vibration to allow scoring of the rubber boot from the seam on the tank. As well I use the same oval air cleaner without problem.

This is the distance I accomplished

I had the same problem with an Accel distributor and the Header tank. This thread resulted in me finding I had a spacer wedge supplied that wasn't flat, (so had leaked coolant everywhere)

So, just a quick thank you to all those that contributed to this thread some time ago, especially Lineslinger. Inspired, I went out and bought a drill press, and made my own spacer. I now have clearance issues resolved for various connections and can now spin the vacuum advance without scraping the header tank.

Great to have forums like this one!

Jim Holden · #2 (**permalink**) 11-04-2009, 03:08 PM

The "spacer" is a part of every expansion tank assembly. It is silver soldered to the tube to the tank when it is constructed.

Without seeing what is causing the interference it is hard to say what the problem is. Sometimes the distributer needs to be rotated because a holddown clip or other obstruction on one side or the other of the distributer is hitting the tank. It is a snug fit under the best of circumstances.
Jim

patrickt · #3 (**permalink**) 11-04-2009, 03:10 PM

Well that answers that. BTW, my #2 spark plug boot does just barely touch my expansion tank.

tgitchel · #4 (**permalink**) 11-05-2009, 08:31 AM

Okay, I think I found the problem. Take a look at this photo:

Notice the difference in the angle of the plate and the mounting ring? if the ring was flush with the plate it would be at an angle where the tank would not interfere with the distributor.

Here is a close-up view:

Can the tub be bent so that the ring angle will align with the plate, or would that damage something? Just looks like a sloppy job putting the thing together. I really wish people would take more pride in their workmanship.

patrickt · #5 (**permalink**) 11-05-2009, 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tgitchel

Can the tub be bent so that the ring angle will align with the plate, or would that damage something?

Your pics did not get posted properly.

I don't know whether you can bend it or not, but I will tell you the technique I use in circumstances like that. I just go ahead and try and bend it; if it brakes, it needed replacing anyway since it wouldn't work without bending it to begin with. That theory has worked well over the last 35 years or so... but I've replaced a lot of parts.

lineslinger · #6 (**permalink**) 11-05-2009, 08:34 AM

Try again on the pictures.....

tgitchel · #7 (**permalink**) 11-05-2009, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lineslinger

Try again on the pictures.....

That's strange, I uploaded them to my gallery just like the one in the first post. I can see them fine.

EDIT: the gallery wasn't marked public... changed it, so should see pics now.

patrickt · #8 (**permalink**) 11-05-2009, 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tgitchel

That's strange, I uploaded them to my gallery just like the one in the first post. I can see them fine.

They work now. Strange. Anyway, I would just go ahead and bend it. If it brakes, just tell Bob it came in the mail that way -- he'll never be the wiser.

tgitchel · #9 (**permalink**) 11-05-2009, 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

They work now. Strange. Anyway, I would just go ahead and bend it. If it brakes, just tell Bob it came in the mail that way -- he'll never be the wiser.

Haha, yeah assuming he doesn't read posts in this forum... The shipper damaged my ceramic coated exhaust, so I guess what's one more part

Seriously though, how do you think I could apply enough force in the right location to bend the tube without cracking the solder at the mouting ring or the base of the tank? How would I even know if there was a minor crack that could get worse?

kgs365 · #10 (**permalink**) 11-05-2009, 08:40 AM

im watching this thinking....darn there goes another way to save a few $$$$.....easier to write the check to Peter!

tgitchel · #11 (**permalink**) 11-05-2009, 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kgs365

im watching this thinking....darn there goes another way to save a few $$$$.....easier to write the check to Peter!

That's the problem. I did get it from ERA and paid $450. I don't know if I really want to risk braking it by bending it.

Gunner · #12 (**permalink**) 11-05-2009, 08:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tgitchel

That's the problem. I did get it from ERA and paid $450. I don't know if I really want to risk braking it by bending it.

Maybe Bob has a comment now that you've established the apparent problem. I would get his input (or someone's, by calling ERA) before getting out the hammers.

kgs365 · #13 (**permalink**) 11-05-2009, 08:55 AM

just send it back overnight!....they will fix you up !

tgitchel · #14 (**permalink**) 11-05-2009, 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kgs365

just send it back overnight!....they will fix you up !

That might just be the best solution, but I would rather not. Since they will need to "repair" this one anyway, maybe I will try to bend it first or just get a radiator shop to do it.

patrickt · #15 (**permalink**) 11-05-2009, 09:29 AM

Now if I were bending it, I'd heat it up first. I wouldn't use a torch, instead I'd put the part I'm bending in a pot of boiling water for a while. I'd stilll end up braking it probably 60% of the time.

Just ship it on back to Bob if you do.

lineslinger · #16 (**permalink**) 11-05-2009, 09:34 AM

I revamped the forward pitch on the mine when I 180'd the outlet around to the drivers side. Take another look at the picture posted earlier and note the slight forward angle of the tank toward the nose of the car. You can uniformly heat one of the solder joints softening it enough to get the tank to shift a few degrees forward.

patrickt · #17 (**permalink**) 11-05-2009, 09:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lineslinger

You can uniformly heat one of the solder joints softening it enough to get the tank to shift a few degrees forward.

That requires too much skill.

Just heat it up in a pot of water, bolt it to a 2x10 piece of wood, then bend it down to your liking. If it brakes, pop it in the mail.

rustyBob · #18 (**permalink**) 11-05-2009, 10:32 AM

I spent 10 years working a radiator shop and i probably repaired a thousand of those tanks, theres a reason Ford only used them for a short period of time(there not worth what they cost ) send it back and have them replace it or repair it, the bracket that runs up the back side from the tstat housing should be attached to the flange the tstat sets in and should be 90 degrees to that bracket and the tank should be about an inch out away from the intake manifold.I dont know why those dumba$$ tanks are so popular i would toss it and install an inline filler neck and not have any problems that they have and it would be a heck of a lot cheaper(450 bucks ???).....somebodys getting bent over just have that look of originality.........

patrickt · #19 (**permalink**) 11-05-2009, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rustyBob

...somebody's getting bent over just to have that look of originality.........

A succinct summary of the Cobra experience if I've ever heard one.

Gunner · #20 (**permalink**) 11-05-2009, 10:41 AM

If you're not going to try to approach originality, there's no reason to even start with the general limitations of a Cobra. I am truly puzzled by those who build "a Cobra" that has so many alternate parts, design differences and compromises that only its shadow resembles the originals. If you want a completely different car, then build THAT car.

YMMV, IMHO, etc.