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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 02-26-2012, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by mickmate View Post
I'm chuckling at your "Hey Joe" analogy. We were looking at the stripes on an original car that are off centre, masked with a piece of cardboard held in place etc and said to ourselves "I'm going out for a haircut and want stripes on that when I get back". I think you're exactly right when you look at the variations....
I'm just imagining "Hey Joe, you dummy, I wanted them on the other end"
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2012, 04:39 AM
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That's funny. "Well boss we could turn them around or put a couple more on the other end, what would like to do?"
"Let's do both and really keep em guessing."
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2012, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by ceslaw View Post
Thanks for the offer Allen. I ordered a set and they arrived in Saturdays mail. If I build a second set I may take you up on that offer.

Have you seen a source for the plain covers without the breather tube or PCV opening? I would like to find a set so we can make a four stack. No one seems to sell them and have not seen them on EBay.
Chuck:

This is the closest i've come up with as reproductions go...available @ Speedway Motors..



Small Block Ford Steel Valve Covers with Breather - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

- Allen.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2012, 05:09 PM
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Allen

I had seen those covers. They don't have the shape of the originals. I suspect those are intended for circle track cars.

Chuck
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 02-29-2012, 10:44 AM
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Paint and Labels

The gold paint was sanded and roughed up a bit and then the covers were painted with Duplicolor Cast Coat Aluminum paint. After drying for several days it was baked in the oven for a couple of hours at 200 degrees. Nothing fancy. Probably similar to what Joe would have done.

The COBRA decals were added. These were ordered from Cobra Restorers. Part number DC051. You will need two.

We took our time installing the labels. First the “COBRA” and the “Shelby” were cut apart. Then a tiny notch was taken out of each corner since sharp corners tend to peel back with time. Only a small 1/8” notch is necessary. Anything larger will be noticeable.

Blue masking tape was used to define the location of the labels to assure they would be even on both sides. Use the blue tape since it will come off more easily than the yellow or green tape. There is no need to press it into place; it is only being used as a guide.

Mix a cup of water with a drop of dish washing soap. (The soap breaks the surface tension of the water). Peel the backing off the label and then dip it in the soapy water. Using a tweezers, carefully place it where it should be. The water will prevent the label from grabbing into place before it is aligned. Using a squeegee, gently force the water out.

Pull the tape off as soon as the labels are in place, and then wipe away the excess water.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 02-29-2012, 11:25 AM
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These have an adhesive backing, correct? The water/drop of dish soap was only used to aid in the positioning of the decals..??

I'll be doing this very shortly and wanted to make sure I understood you..the use of the water reminds me of the model decals I'm familiar with..

- Allen.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 02-29-2012, 11:43 AM
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Yes, they have an adhesive backing. The soapy water is only to aid positioning and when the water is squeezed out you are less likely to have air bubbles.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 02-29-2012, 12:24 PM
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Window tint is just a huge sticker too!
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 02-29-2012, 01:39 PM
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The paint used was "Ford Argent" and is available from your local Ford dealer P/N PM-19K207-AA
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 02-29-2012, 05:53 PM
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The paint used was "Ford Argent" and is available from your local Ford dealer P/N PM-19K207-AA
Excellent information ! I used the Duplicolor primarily because it is an engine paint rated for high temps. Probably not necessary but past experience with the durability of engine paints has been good.
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2012, 03:59 AM
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Ceslaw. With your interest in Ken Miles, you should probably talk to Ron Butler, he was Ken Miles' crew chief. He joined Shelby in late '63 or early '64. He is a great guy and his shop is in Ventura, CA. If you need info to reach him, let me know. I bet he can tell you some good stories about Ken and about what that shop scene was like. From the things he has told me, it was a rather crude operation compared to today's race teams. Sounds like a great project for you and your son.
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Last edited by SoTxButler; 03-01-2012 at 04:17 AM.. Reason: Corrections
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2012, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by SoTxButler View Post
Ceslaw. With your interest in Ken Miles, you should probably talk to Ron Butler, he was Ken Miles' crew chief. He joined Shelby in late '63 or early '64. He is a great guy and his shop is in Ventura, CA. If you need info to reach him, let me know. I bet he can tell you some good stories about Ken and about what that shop scene was like. From the things he has told me, it was a rather crude operation compared to today's race teams. Sounds like a great project for you and your son.
Russ

Thanks for the tip. It would be fantastic to sit down with Ron Butler and get a real inside view if what it was like at the time. I suspect he could provide a wealth of info. If I have occasion to head to the left coast I may well contact you.

Chuck
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 03-03-2012, 05:08 AM
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Finishing the Valve Covers

The wire separators are available from several sources including CJ Pony Parts, part number HW900. While we were at it a set of original style valve cover bolts were also ordered, part number F481.

Put the labels on the breather caps, pop them in place, and the covers are done.

So how did we do? Here is the link to a picture of CSX2129:

CSX2129
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 03-03-2012, 07:21 AM
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They turned out super! How many hours do you have into them?
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 03-03-2012, 05:27 PM
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They turned out super! How many hours do you have into them?
Ryan and I together probably have about ten hours time. I am sure the next set would be half that, and the third probably half of that.
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