Door Latch

[427 Street]

Has ERA changed their door latches...was that part of any major modification

I am wondering if I just need to adjust the "striker", attached to the body or if I need a new one.

Are there other companies to make them...different quality levels?

Thanks

[strictlypersonl]

We've been sourcing the latch and striker from the same place for as long as I can remember.

The "trick" is to shim the striker mounting bracket so that the striker exactly fits (all the way) into the latch receptacle. It might be necessary to tilt the striker in or out, although I've never seen it done on a turnkey here.

Generally, we supply all the shims required, but if you need, we have shims that go under the latch to space it toward the car centerline.

[427 Street]

Ok...I might have to call you on that one for an in-hand walk through

I took my striker off because the nut just will not tighten and their is a lot of play in the striker. Is the striker supposed to freely move around or is it supposed to be fixed and solid?

The striker itself looks stripped to me...the first 3 threads are flattened out a bit. I inherited this issue when I bought the car. I was told I had to "really slam" the door. Well, I just don't believe I have to do that, so I took it apart last night.

If I need more shims or a new striker, are they readily available without buying the whole assembly?

Thanks for your time.

[tboneheller]

When you get the striker to tighten, your door will shut properly. I have to re tighten mine every so often.

[strictlypersonl]

You should be able to tighten the nut. Even when tightened, it won't be perfectly rigid: there's a bushing inside the "Silent Travel" casting to add some (but not much) flex - and keep the latch assembly "quiet" and rattle-free.
We get our latches in complete (L/R) sets. If you need just the striker, they're available from mossmotors.com. Part number 401-408.