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02-11-2013, 07:37 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,533
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by strictlypersonl
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I hadn't run across this before - I could have used this a few weeks ago.
thanks
Dan
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02-11-2013, 07:54 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Don't worry, the "my ERA won't charge" is the easiest electrical problem there is. Second only to "my horns won't blow."
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02-12-2013, 06:19 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,533
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt
Don't worry, the "my ERA won't charge" is the easiest electrical problem there is. Second only to "my horns won't blow."
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My horns blow but one side of my turn signals don't work. I noticed a section in Bob's manual on that so I'll start there.
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02-12-2013, 06:31 AM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC
My horns blow but one side of my turn signals don't work. I noticed a section in Bob's manual on that so I'll start there.
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Just trace the circuit back, starting at the "turn switch" side of the trailer relay, which is fastened to your steering column just over your knees. The only trick to that if the front turn signal bulb is bad (like with a blown filament), or if the circuit is "open" up there because of a broken wire or bad connection, then the entire side can fail to light up. The wiring is very simple, though; it's not nearly as complicated as today's cars.
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02-16-2013, 12:09 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,533
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Not Ranked
I finally got a replacement heater valve yesterday and sealed the cooling system back up to restart the motor. Geez - took UPS over a week and half to deliver it. Upon restarting the charging light is showing red. I used Bob's electrical primer manual to test the alternator and regulator. With the motor running I'm only getting 12.4 volts at the battery - same as with the motor off. I pulled the plug off of the regulator and jumpered from the power wire to the ground with the key on - 0 volts. Same thing from the ground terminal to ground. Checked the fuse for the yellow/red striped power wire. It appears fine. I made a jumper wire to connect the power wire and ground wire together in the regulator plug and re-started the engine. I first glanced at the ammeter gage and it was pegged all the way over on the charge side and I immediately shut the motor down.
My battery was getting pretty weak by this time - maybe that's why the ammeter pegged (?) Sound like the regulator?
I plugged the regulator back in securely and restarted and it's still showing no charge. Because one of the turn signals was not working the other day I decided to try them before killing the engine. The driver side works fine and the ammeter showing an expected fluctuation as it operates. When I turned on the passenger side the ammeter went wide - charging, discharging, bouncing all over. I tried it twice with the same results. I haven't had time to trouble shoot the turn signals yet but I will according to Bob's manual.
Thoughts? Bad regulator? Did I miss something?
I'm just not the best electrical guy. When I last changed the ice/water filter in our refrigerator the service light that shows green when the filter is good and eventually changes to yellow and red when they want you to replace it - went out. That was months ago - I figured I can live without it. Today said something about it to my wife and she opened the door and a minute later said - "there, its fixed." I said, how's that? She said "I just pushed the reset button in and held it for 3 seconds." I said great - there is not hope for me and the Cobra. 
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02-16-2013, 01:18 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
There are five wires coming out of the harness to the voltage regulator. Four go to the plug and the solid black one has an eyelet for the ground to the regulator itself. Using your VOM, do this:
1) Place the + lead of the VOM on the positive side of your car's battery and the - lead of your VOM on the black eyelet. Do you have 12 volts? If not, there's a bad ground connection to the black wire.
2) With the key turned on, but not cranking, put the + lead of your VOM on the YELLOW/RED wire going to the voltage regulator and the - lead of your VOM on the black wire's eyelet. Do you have 12 volts?
3) If the answer to #2 was "No" then, just for the heck of it, turn your turn signals on, each way, and see if that makes the voltage go up and down on the YELLOW/RED wire like a flashing bulb would do. BTW, this should never happen.
Then report back.
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02-23-2013, 11:28 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,533
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Not Ranked
Still not charging
Alas - my luck with fixing the turn signals did not hold true for the charging problem. New regulator and bench tested the alternator (OK) and still no charge.
Going to start over with testing again. Any other suggestions are welcome.
Dan
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