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5Likes

08-07-2013, 07:44 AM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by lippy
I'm not following this. Ok, so you attach a clear tube from the bleed screw to a soda bottle partially filled with brake fluid. Then you open the bleeder screw a bit. Then don't you need someone to pump the brakes while you open and close the bleeder screw so the system draws fluid from the reservoir? I'm not understanding how Patrick and others describe a one-man process that just uses a tube.
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1) Put the surgical tubing on the bleeder screw, put the other end in to the mayonnaise jar. Fill the mayonnaise jar with just enough fluid to cover the bottom of the hose.
2) Fill reservoir with fresh fluid and crack bleeder screw.
3) Pump brakes several times. Inspect level of fluid in reservoir. Inspect fluid in mayonnaise jar and in the surgical tubing.
4) Keep pumping until the fresh fluid (using a different color fluid helps) is through the system and clearly visible in the surgical tubing. Your mayonnaise jar will be filling up, so you know you've done it correctly.
5) There will be no air in the system because any vacuum will just draw fluid back in to the system (not air). If you see air bubbles clinging to the side of the tube, plick them with your finger so they get pushed through to the mayonnaise jar. The tubing should be completely full of fluid with no air bubbles present.
6) Tighten the bleeder screw and pull the surgical tubing off it. Hold the tubing upright and it will drain in to the mayonnaise jar (remember, it is full of fluid).
7) This is a virtually fool-proof method of bleeding your brakes, and you can take your time, get distracted, and wander off, and it will still work perfectly.
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09-25-2013, 11:52 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Bay Area (Peninsula),
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 427, 427/487 side-oiler
Posts: 1,248
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt
1) Put the surgical tubing on the bleeder screw, put the other end in to the mayonnaise jar. Fill the mayonnaise jar with just enough fluid to cover the bottom of the hose.
2) Fill reservoir with fresh fluid and crack bleeder screw.
3) Pump brakes several times. Inspect level of fluid in reservoir. Inspect fluid in mayonnaise jar and in the surgical tubing.
4) Keep pumping until the fresh fluid (using a different color fluid helps) is through the system and clearly visible in the surgical tubing. Your mayonnaise jar will be filling up, so you know you've done it correctly.
5) There will be no air in the system because any vacuum will just draw fluid back in to the system (not air). If you see air bubbles clinging to the side of the tube, plick them with your finger so they get pushed through to the mayonnaise jar. The tubing should be completely full of fluid with no air bubbles present.
6) Tighten the bleeder screw and pull the surgical tubing off it. Hold the tubing upright and it will drain in to the mayonnaise jar (remember, it is full of fluid).
7) This is a virtually fool-proof method of bleeding your brakes, and you can take your time, get distracted, and wander off, and it will still work perfectly.
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I bled my brakes this way and it looks like it worked perfectly and quickly. I had one fitting that needed to be tightened but, other than that, no problems. The brake pedal seems very firm. I've always used the two-person method before. But if this works (and it does), I can't understand using speed bleeders, or pressure systems (unless you are a pro and need to do it quickly without pumping).
Since the reservoir on the ERA feeds both the brake and clutch cylinders, can I also hook up the clutch slave cylinder and bleed it before the engine is in, and bolt it onto the engine once it's in the car?
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09-26-2013, 04:15 AM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by lippy
I bled my brakes this way and it looks like it worked perfectly and quickly. ... I can't understand using speed bleeders, or pressure systems (unless you are a pro and need to do it quickly without pumping).
Since the reservoir on the ERA feeds both the brake and clutch cylinders, can I also hook up the clutch slave cylinder and bleed it before the engine is in, and bolt it onto the engine once it's in the car?
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Yes, speed bleeders are for the brake bleeding snob crowd. Real pros use a plastic tube and mayonnaise jar.  Now you can bleed the clutch master and slave with the engine/trans out of the car, but you won't be able to tell if the pedal is squishy or not without a true load on the slave (meaning the fork and pressure plate). Plus, sometimes you can get a little air bubble in that slave cylinder. To get it out you work the plunger with your finger to push it out the plastic tube. Other than that, there's nothing to it.
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09-26-2013, 04:32 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,533
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Not Ranked
Speed bleeders were my ultimate solution (ERAChase was right I'm afraid) because one of the GM front calipers had such worn out threads on the bleeder port that I couldn't keep it from sucking air back in with either reverse pressure or vacuum bleeding. It would have bleed OK if I had had someone pump the pedal and hold while I opened and closed the bleeder port - but I stumbled across Dorman speed bleeders at Pepboys and it was easier picking them up than scheduling a time with my wife to assist with the bleeding effort. Except for the worn out caliper issue they would not have been necessary.
Bleeding the uninstalled slave cylinder shouldn't be a problem - may even be easier since you can hold it up high with the bleeder at the top and get the air out easily. As the manual suggests, just slight movement of the clutch bellcrank by hand will pass enough fluid to get the air out.
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09-26-2013, 07:02 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,078
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC
Speed bleeders were my ultimate solution (ERAChase was right I'm afraid)...
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Why would you 'be afraid' I was right Dan? I would only offer you things that:
A. Work.
B. Make a job much easier-anytime they needed doing.
The defective caliper should not be the only reason to change to speeds. They just plain work and eliminate a second person, pedal pumping and nose-jacking the car. And I know Doug at ERA does that but I never found that necessary. My car was always level on stands and with my vacuum bleeder, was a one-man operation and not an ordeal. And always got a rock-hard pedal.
There's a lot of wives tales and internet BS out there and following the hackneyed consensus usually prevents you from trying alternate, improved methods.
It took me a few years to discover this 'better way' and it was way before there even was 'internet BS'...
__________________
Chas.
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09-26-2013, 10:14 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,533
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by ERA Chas
Why would you 'be afraid' I was right Dan?
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I dread being caught in the middle between you and patrickt. I feel like the squirrel in the middle of the road with a car coming on. 
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09-26-2013, 10:59 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,078
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC
I dread being caught in the middle between you and patrickt. I feel like the squirrel in the middle of the road with a car coming on. 
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Lame. That should have nothing to do with either of us trying to help you.
Which we both do. 
__________________
Chas.
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