Best approach to bleeding brakes - Part 2

[ERA Chas]

David,
He fretted over getting a 'correct' washer bottle and covers for the tunnel tubes..........
Getting effective brake tools should be a much higher priority.

[DAVID GAGNARD]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

David,
He fretted over getting a 'correct' washer bottle and covers for the tunnel tubes..........
Getting effective brake tools should be a much higher priority.

That's all beside the point,he asked how to stop the air bubbles with his present set-up and bleeders and I told him where his air bubbles were coming from,he DIDN'T ask what bleeders he should be using..........

David

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by DAVID GAGNARD

That's all beside the point,he asked how to stop the air bubbles with his present set-up and bleeders and I told him where his air bubbles were coming from,he DIDN'T ask what bleeders he should be using..........

David

You got it David - thanks.

Dan

[DAVID GAGNARD]

Dan:
Now I'll put in my whole 2 cents worth having just flushed out the entire brake system on a 65 Fastback and starting from scratch,both rear caliper (Versaille disc brakes in the rear) were rebuilt and fluid was old and black,so a flush was in order.......

What I did was put the car level as I could on 4 jack stands and starting on the passenger rear took my little el cheapo Harbor Freight vacuum pump and hooked to the bleeder,after cracking the bleeder I began pumping to get the old fluid out until nothing would come anymore and yes I DID get air bubbles the whole time......once I had no more fluid coming out, I took the bleeder out and wrapped the threads with Teflon tape and re-installed it,then did the same on the driver side rear caliper... so now both bleeders have been wrapped with Teflon tape and the master cylinder and brake lines should be all but empty of fluid...filled up the master cylinder and began pumping again on the passenger side bleeder until I got nice/clean fluid,had to re-fill the master cylinder a couple of times....then on to the drivers side, doing the same thing.....once I got all nice clean fluid I moved to the front calipers (factory front 65 Mustang disc brakes), doing basically the same thing starting on the passenger side and then to the drivers side, re-filling the master cylinder as needed..........
Once all the lines and calipers were bled and everything was full of fresh fluid, I then got my wife to pump the brakes and do the final bleed the old fashion way, I did three pump/bleed sequences per caliper and got no air and all clean fresh fluid..........
then took it out for a test ride, everything worked as it was supposed to... and the owner commented that he couldn't remember when the brakes were that good!!!!!!!!!!!!! I also suggested doing one more manual/pedal bleed after about 50 to 100 miles,can't hurt anything...........

It's not hard to do, just take your time and be careful......even if you do not wrap the bleeder threads with Teflon tape, you CAN still bleed the system just fine and it WILL work...........

David

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by DAVID GAGNARD

Dan:
Now I'll put in my whole 2 cents worth having just flushed out the entire brake system on a 65 Fastback and starting from scratch,both rear caliper (Versaille disc brakes in the rear) were rebuilt and fluid was old and black,so a flush was in order.......

What I did was put the car level as I could on 4 jack stands and starting on the passenger rear took my little el cheapo Harbor Freight vacuum pump and hooked to the bleeder,after cracking the bleeder I began pumping to get the old fluid out until nothing would come anymore and yes I DID get air bubbles the whole time......once I had no more fluid coming out, I took the bleeder out and wrapped the threads with Teflon tape and re-installed it,then did the same on the driver side rear caliper... so now both bleeders have been wrapped with Teflon tape and the master cylinder and brake lines should be all but empty of fluid...filled up the master cylinder and began pumping again on the passenger side bleeder until I got nice/clean fluid,had to re-fill the master cylinder a couple of times....then on to the drivers side, doing the same thing.....once I got all nice clean fluid I moved to the front calipers (factory front 65 Mustang disc brakes), doing basically the same thing starting on the passenger side and then to the drivers side, re-filling the master cylinder as needed..........
Once all the lines and calipers were bled and everything was full of fresh fluid, I then got my wife to pump the brakes and do the final bleed the old fashion way, I did three pump/bleed sequences per caliper and got no air and all clean fresh fluid..........
then took it out for a test ride, everything worked as it was supposed to... and the owner commented that he couldn't remember when the brakes were that good!!!!!!!!!!!!! I also suggested doing one more manual/pedal bleed after about 50 to 100 miles,can't hurt anything...........

It's not hard to do, just take your time and be careful......even if you do not wrap the bleeder threads with Teflon tape, you CAN still bleed the system just fine and it WILL work...........

David

On the one really bad front caliper I may just have to bite the bullet and pull the bleeder and stop up the caliper hole with a rubber plug so I can wrap some teflon tape around the bleeder screw and reinstall it. I can also measure it to see what size speed bleeders I may need to order for the future.

Thanks