Retrofitting heater/defroster

[1795]

Hi,

I am getting ready to retrofit a heater/defroster into ERA 717. I have the kit from ERA and just wanted to touch base and gain some advice before I start tearing things apart to install the unit. I have to install both the heater and the ducts for the defroster. The holes and deflectors are already in place. Any advice? I do not want to waste time removing items that I may not have to. Thanks.

Jim

[Mark IV]

Jim,

Save yourself all sorts of issues and call Bob P. on Monday.

He will give you the straight skinny. Peter will tell you it is "easy" because he has Bob do the job!

Like my accountant says "Nothing is impossible if YOU don't have to do it!"

[1795]

Rick,

I always have appreciated your wit and wisdom. You are a true friend. Looking forward to seeing you this summer.

Jim

[kevins2]

Depending on what dash layout you have, you may need to move some instruments around, so ask about that while you're at it.

[1795]

Thanks. I will. I have the SC with the Smith gauges and a glove box; however, the glove box should not be an issue.

Jim

[patrickt]

With the SC dash and glove box, the three middle Smiths gauges will be amps, fuel, and oil temp, in that order, from left to right. The job will be more difficult than you think. Here's a pic of mine going in during the build.

[1795]

Patrick,

That is the order that the gauges are in. Just took a quick peek under the dash, it is 3 degrees outside right now with one hell of a wind chill, and it does look like it will be a tight fit. Will probably have to remove the dash to get a little clearance with the wires and may need to move the wiring around a little. Good thing that I am thin and flexible. Otherwise, it would be one hell of a pain in the a@@!

Jim

[patrickt]

Those little angle support braces are fake -- so you can pull those. The dash is going to have to come out a bit, but I think you can get by with just removing the dash screws and pulling the dash back a couple/few inches. Maybe, but maybe not. I don't know if you have the quick release steering hub, but that helps. The steering wheel is a PITA when you're under the dash. Removing a seat helps too. You'll be working on your back with your head towards the front of the car so you can either flip your legs back over the seat or just take the seat out. Make sure you disconnect the battery cables before you go in there....

[kevins2]

Actually, an accessory outlet is a nice thing to have and the wiring for one is already in the ERA harness, unless that changed over the years.

[1795]

There is an accessory outlet already installed and hidden in the glove box. I appreciate Bill S. taking the time to install it...now if only he had followed through with his post when he had the car concerning installing a heater/defroster this would have been his headache, not mine....

Patrick,

I will try to post pictures, but for some reason I have not been able to upload pictures into an album. It keeps on failing every time I try.

Jim

[DanEC]

When you say "the holes ..... are already in place" do you mean the 5 holes in the firewall? I hope so since to me having to drill the firewall holes in a finished car woul be the most difficult part.

I would second pulling the dash. The heater is pretty good size and fitting the defroster hoses can be a struggle because they are very stiff and the right one is a pain because of the glove box aluminum.

[1795]

Dan,

unfortunately I meant the holes for the deflectors. I have the template that came with the heater/defroster for drilling the holes and just bought a new 1" bimetal hole saw. I plan on putting electric tape on the drill bits so that I stop soon after going through the firewall and will make sure that I have all the wiring out of the way before a single drill bit touches anything. Looks like it will be a nice day tomorrow, almost 40 degrees.

Jim

[DanEC]

Is your motor out of the car? Wondering about drill access.

[1795]

Looks like I am heading out to purchase a small angle drill.

[Mark IV]

For cheap try Harbor Freight, they have both air and electric that will be fine for as much as you will use it. I have an air unit you are welcome to use.

[DanEC]

Yep, I bought an inexpensive right angle electric drill at Harbor Freight. Only used it a couple times but it is handy when you need it.

But an air drill might even be slimmer.

[1795]

Tried Sears and they did not have anything in stock. Will try Lowes and Harbor Freight tomorrow. If nobody has anything, Rick I will take you up on your offer to borrow the air drill. It should all work out, I am running the process through my head and visualizing it. I really appreciate everyone's suggestions and thoughts. I will take pictures from beginning to end so that someone else will be either able to follow through with the process in the future, or take a close look and say, "No way in hell!" before purchasing the heater/defroster

Jim

[ERA Chas]

If you must do this job, because DMV mandates, OK. But the only right thing Sheldon Cooper said is to make your wife comfortable, not gut your finished car for this. This is a man that needs an instruction sheet for a nail file.
And if weather conditions really require a heater-it's too cold for the engine. Wear is not premature when it never gets to operating temps. But you're apparently past that or don't care.
Grommets are a good idea but the 'glass may be too thick. Try McMaster, then size the hole for the grommet OD. Forget files. Holesaw is great followed by a close-sized dowel wrapped in 60 or 80 grit paper. Finish with 220. Before that, get some old hand towels, wet them and place them on both sides of the f'wall to catch the 'glass dust tornado you'll make. Wear a particle mask for the worst of it.
Dan's brace is good.
Don't expect this all will do anything to keep anyone warm below 50 degrees. If you run in the cold, keep checking for milkshake in your valve covers and breathers.

[strictlypersonl]

What might work to seal the hole is "half" a grommet. Cut one of the flanges off. Then use silicone to stick and seal it to the firewall.

[patrickt]

... and if you find you can't get the heater in there without moving heaven and earth, then a 12v blow dryer, like this one, temporarily ducted in has been known to work for getting by the inspection requirement for defrosters.