Clutch Adjustment

[Large Arbor]

Ok, slave cylinder replaced and not leaking. Bled and seems to be working. It goes into gears easily in all gears. The only question I have is I cannot tell if the throwout bearing is resting against the pressure plate fingers, but it appears that it is touching. Should it be? If not, how do I back it off? I have the tunnel in the car removed. Its not a hydraulic clutch throwout bearing. It does not appear that it is pressuring the pressure plate but does appear to be resting on the pressure plate fingers. Advice would be most appreciated.

Phil

[DanEC]

It takes a fairly good clutch arm return spring to counter the spring inside the slave cylinder. Possibly you need a slightly stronger spring. When pushing the pedal by hand can you feel a bit of movement before it gets stiff from contacting the clutch? If so you are probably OK but you may want to look into a little stronger return spring.

[Large Arbor]

The spring does appear to be pretty weak. Here is a pic of the setup.

Phil

[PeteF]

Your return spring appears to be too long and under no tension.

[Large Arbor]

My plan is to get a shorter stronger spring tomorrow. Hopefully that will pul the fork and TO bearing back a little. Everything seems ok when I drove it. No odd noises and no slippage. Any other ways to notice if anything is wrong?

Phil

[DanEC]

Phil - I agree that you need a shorter spring. I can just barely see inside my Quicktime bellhousing with a strong light and by having someone lightly push the pedal or by pushing on the throwout fork, I can percieve slight movement of the bearing against the clutch fingers. That's about all I can think of. As long as you have a little take up in the clutch pedal before it gets firm from applying pressure on the clutch, and get a shorter spring, I think you will be OK.

[PatBuckley]

Tell ERA to tell you what spring you need.

[Large Arbor]

I replaced the spring with one a little shorter and stiffer and it seems much better. I think the old one was from a carburetor spring.

Phil

[davids2toys]

Went down this road...Per Doug at ERA, that spring is only there for a safety and should not be overpowering anything. I know that is contradicting the manual and he knows that.
I agree, your spring appears to not have enough tension, but just a little bit of tension is all you need!

[Large Arbor]

Yes, its been working fine so no problems.

Phil

[Davekmd]

Yikes! I do not have a clutch return spring anywhere (pedal or slave cylinder). I completely missed that .... One more thing to add to the to do list.

daveK

[Davekmd]

Ummmm... ops.... If I add a clutch return spring won't I be increasing the pressure required to apply the clutch? I have a Wilwood pull type slave clutch cylinder. Is the internal spring not enough to push the throwout arm so that the TOB is not riding on the clutch push fingers?

[Large Arbor]

I think the return spring is just to pull the pedal back. I have had no issues.

Phil

[DanEC]

I don't know about a pull-type clutch system. On my push-type system the spring internal to the slave cylinder pushes the rod against the fork and the TO bearing against the clutch. Thus the idea for an external return spring is to overcome the pressure from the internal spring when the clutch is engaged. Because of the pedal arm length and multiplication effect, the additional spring isn't something you will feel in operating the clutch. It will also return the clutch pedal but that's a secondary purpose.

You don't need a gorilla spring for this. Similar to brake pads the spinning clutch plate fingers will have enough return pressure and enough irregularity to tend to kick the TO bearing back - the sping just helps hold it from returning to contact with the clutch plate fingers, or at least any significant contact. At least that's the case if you have a little free play at the top of the clutch linkage travel.