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Old 02-18-2015, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dwight View Post
I've never worked on a ERA

what turn signal switch do they use?

Some of the Cobras I've worked on use a MG, others a VW and one a Ford Fairmont.

Dwight
It is a VW Switch, part #141 953 517F that looks like this:

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Old 02-18-2015, 11:06 AM
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Here's a pic of the schematic that I had on my computer. I'm reasonably sure it applies to his ERA number. Fuses 6, 7, and 8 protect the parking lights, high beams, and low beams, respectively, but are not shown in this diagram. Likewise, the parking light circuit is not shown.


Last edited by patrickt; 10-31-2016 at 12:06 PM..
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Old 04-05-2015, 04:55 AM
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Anyone buy one of these in the past? Seems to be a wide range of prices $42 up to $290.

98-9576-B Turn Signal Switch, Type 1, 62-67, Ghia,62-67, Black (OE P/N: 141 953 517F) vw parts, vw, parts, volkswagen, volkswagon, vwparts, aircooled,air-cooled,air cooled, volkswagen parts, bug parts, beetle, beatle, aircooled parts, vintage parts,b

VW Turn Signal Switch, 1966-67 Type 1, (Dimmer Switch Included!), SWF, 141-953-517F BK SWF - Aircooled.Net VW Parts


https://www.airheadparts.com/vintage...141953517-f-bk

https://www.airheadparts.com/vintage...141953517-f-oe

I guess it's the difference between OE and reproduction units. Anyone have some experience with a particular outlet or supplier?

Blew another fuse on the last drive.
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Old 04-05-2015, 08:12 AM
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... and the fuse blows when you make the signal, correct?
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Old 04-05-2015, 08:38 AM
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Yes - it's intermittent. The last time I noticed it happened I was holding down the lever to signal as I was also turning slightly into a left turn lane. I was holding the lever to prevent it from canceling as I maneuvered. I replaced the fuse and continued my drive - as long as I just flicked the lever to position to signal (not holding it in signal position) it worked OK.

Guess my question would have been better worded to say - which has the better reputation for durability - OEM or reproduction?
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Old 04-05-2015, 08:49 AM
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Here's a simple test that I think will work. Pull the yellow wire off the flasher, and pull the two fast blow fuses out of the fixture behind the trailer relay. Then put one lead of a test light bulb on a known good 12v positive and the other lead on the yellow wire you removed from the flasher. Then jiggle and wiggle the turn signal on and off and see if you can get the bulb to light. If you can, then you know the switch is shorting out. Oh, and remove the front turn signal bulbs first.

Last edited by patrickt; 04-05-2015 at 08:52 AM.. Reason: Remembered the front bulbs...
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Old 04-05-2015, 09:05 AM
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It's the TS switch itself - I've already done the trouble shooting.
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