Finally attempting to tackle that leaky rear

[RICK LAKE]

David2toys, Dave 80 grit paper to sand the rotors. This is to break the glazing from the old brakes and give a newer surface to breakin the new pads and seat them. Stay with the OEM Jag rear pads, You are not racing the the stock ones will work fine.

I have 12 quarts of oil to heat, oil cooler lines, oil cooler, 8 quarts in the motor oil pan and 3 quarts in the accusump. This is way my oil temps don't g
et upto temp. I need to add a thermostat to heat the oil better.

Very easy on tightening the gauge nuts. If they have insolators, make sure you don't crack them, that's all.

Call ERA and talk to Doug or Peter about can the shifter be moved forward without major changes to the tunnel. Time to reinsolate the tunnels with new heat tape. Mine looked like yours after a couple of years of racing. I added aluminum strips and rivets to help keep the tape in place and keep out the heat in the passenger compartment. Other note here, GOD forbid in case of an oil fire this tape will give you added time to get out of the car and not get burnt. I had an oil fire at the Run and Gun on the R/S of the car. A small piece of valve cover gasket broke out, We are talking about 1/4". The oil hit the header and they where rapped with temp cloth and the car still caught fire. Good thing, no damage to me or car with the silver tape all around. Didn't know I had the problem until fire truck stopped me. Poped the hood and we had a hotdog roast. Those guys needed some work any way.

Grease will not kill the glue on the back of the foam temp tape, Oil will.

AS for rear brakes, use a screwdriver to spread the pads and retract the caliper cups, remove the pins and retainer clips, sand rotors both sides, I use brake quiet from CRC to help glue the pads to the cups of the calipers, some people go dry or use high temp grease. reassembly. pump brake pedal to get pads to contact rotors. Check for release of pads from rotors. At this point I compress brake pedal and crack bleeders to remove any air and moister out of calipers. pedal goes to floor, tighten bleeders and release pedal slowly. Top off fluid and you are done. Good luck Rick L.

[davids2toys]

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

David2toys, Dave 80 grit paper to sand the rotors. This is to break the glazing from the old brakes and give a newer surface to breakin the new pads and seat them. Stay with the OEM Jag rear pads, You are not racing the the stock ones will work fine.

I have 12 quarts of oil to heat, oil cooler lines, oil cooler, 8 quarts in the motor oil pan and 3 quarts in the accusump. This is way my oil temps don't g
et upto temp. I need to add a thermostat to heat the oil better.

Very easy on tightening the gauge nuts. If they have insolators, make sure you don't crack them, that's all.

Call ERA and talk to Doug or Peter about can the shifter be moved forward without major changes to the tunnel. Time to reinsolate the tunnels with new heat tape. Mine looked like yours after a couple of years of racing. I added aluminum strips and rivets to help keep the tape in place and keep out the heat in the passenger compartment. Other note here, GOD forbid in case of an oil fire this tape will give you added time to get out of the car and not get burnt. I had an oil fire at the Run and Gun on the R/S of the car. A small piece of valve cover gasket broke out, We are talking about 1/4". The oil hit the header and they where rapped with temp cloth and the car still caught fire. Good thing, no damage to me or car with the silver tape all around. Didn't know I had the problem until fire truck stopped me. Poped the hood and we had a hotdog roast. Those guys needed some work any way.

Grease will not kill the glue on the back of the foam temp tape, Oil will.

AS for rear brakes, use a screwdriver to spread the pads and retract the caliper cups, remove the pins and retainer clips, sand rotors both sides, I use brake quiet from CRC to help glue the pads to the cups of the calipers, some people go dry or use high temp grease. reassembly. pump brake pedal to get pads to contact rotors. Check for release of pads from rotors. At this point I compress brake pedal and crack bleeders to remove any air and moister out of calipers. pedal goes to floor, tighten bleeders and release pedal slowly. Top off fluid and you are done. Good luck Rick L.

OK, so get new pads, got it. Is there a good place to buy the jag brakes? Do I need specific Jag brake pads for the ERA inboard brakes? Only scuff the rotor, can you explain what you mean "circular motion"? The rotors are staying on the car, so are you saying spin the rotor by hand, or start the car, put it in first gear with the wheels off the ground hold the 80 grit against it, or are you saying to just go around the rotor and just keep making making small circles?
Man, that is a lot of friggin oil! Yes, I think you need a thermostat! Also make sure your sensor is submerges in the oil!

Getting those pads off doesn't sound so bad, cant wait to dig into this.

Oil fire...never would have thought of this. I do want to repair the tunnel insulation. He has a a base material stuck to the FG, and then the shiny tape stuck onto that.

I did talk to Doug about the shifter and he suggested the moving of the pedals. I like the idea of getting a different adapter that would move the shifter forward about 2-3"and then repair the tunnel and carpet. I will have to talk to Doug again about this

Thanks