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1Likes

08-13-2015, 04:52 AM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by xb-60
....what flywheel and what clutch will you be using? I'm looking myself  and at the moment I'm flying (almost) blind.
Cheers,
Glen
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These cars cry out for an aluminum flywheel. I have an overpriced Centerforce aluminum flywheel on my FE. But there are equivalents out there for half the price.
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08-13-2015, 05:35 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Southbury,
ct
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA, 428, 4 speed Toploader, Jag rear, Red with White stripes
Posts: 961
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Not Ranked
Brooklyn and Patrick,
I talked to Peter yesterday, 250.00 for the shifter handle. I cant believe the one that you posted from finish line is only 99.00. Could there be be a HUGE difference in this one, and the one that ERA sells for 250.00?
Yes, that spacer is a lot more! I cant see a disadvantage to the shorter input for me, I have just the opposite problem than you Patrick.
FYI: Liberty will give you on request all the original parts they take off for all of their modifications. It would be good to have the original input lying on the shelf in case I were to sell it to somebody who did not need the shorter shaft
Thanks
__________________
ERA#698 428, 4 speed Toploader, 3:31 Jag rear
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08-13-2015, 06:47 AM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by davids2toys
Brooklyn and Patrick,
I talked to Peter yesterday, 250.00 for the shifter handle. I cant believe the one that you posted from finish line is only 99.00. Could there be be a HUGE difference in this one, and the one that ERA sells for 250.00?
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Now I don't know for sure, but I'm willing to bet that the only difference is that the ERA shifter really does feel like the original shifter when you use your two fingers to pull up on the reverse lock-out. It comes up just like the originals, looks just like the originals, wiggles a little bit just like the originals, and you'd almost swear that you were lifting up the shift gate. That's probably the only difference. After all, it's just a dog-legged piece of steel that's threaded on one end and has a two hole boss welded on the other. Ford probably made them for less than two bucks each. 
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08-13-2015, 08:30 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Southbury,
ct
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA, 428, 4 speed Toploader, Jag rear, Red with White stripes
Posts: 961
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt
Now I don't know for sure, but I'm willing to bet that the only difference is that the ERA shifter really does feel like the original shifter when you use your two fingers to pull up on the reverse lock-out. It comes up just like the originals, looks just like the originals, wiggles a little bit just like the originals, and you'd almost swear that you were lifting up the shift gate. That's probably the only difference. After all, it's just a dog-legged piece of steel that's threaded on one end and has a two hole boss welded on the other. Ford probably made them for less than two bucks each. 
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My present shifter on the Toploader looks real and operates as you say(pulls up and is spring loaded)
__________________
ERA#698 428, 4 speed Toploader, 3:31 Jag rear
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08-15-2015, 12:20 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Southbury,
ct
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA, 428, 4 speed Toploader, Jag rear, Red with White stripes
Posts: 961
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt
Now I don't know for sure, but I'm willing to bet that the only difference is that the ERA shifter really does feel like the original shifter when you use your two fingers to pull up on the reverse lock-out. It comes up just like the originals, looks just like the originals, wiggles a little bit just like the originals, and you'd almost swear that you were lifting up the shift gate. That's probably the only difference. After all, it's just a dog-legged piece of steel that's threaded on one end and has a two hole boss welded on the other. Ford probably made them for less than two bucks each. 
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I was up at ERA yesterday, the shifter handle they sell for the Tremec does not have the lockout that moves!!!
__________________
ERA#698 428, 4 speed Toploader, 3:31 Jag rear
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08-15-2015, 03:05 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Adelaide,
SA
Cobra Make, Engine: AP 289FIA 'English' spec.
Posts: 13,152
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by davids2toys
I was up at ERA yesterday, the shifter handle they sell for the Tremec does not have the lockout that moves!!!
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There are a couple on eBay, but both have non functional lockout. The 'horizontal bolt' version is $109 and the 'bolt down' version is $165
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08-15-2015, 03:04 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by davids2toys
I was up at ERA yesterday, the shifter handle they sell for the Tremec does not have the lockout that moves!!!
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Well I have to say that playing with the little lockout T is one of my favorite things to do while sitting at stop lights. It's a shame they quit making them functional. The ERA Manual has the instructions for making one. I was going to rip them and post them but they are long, and ridiculously complicated. I can see why they quit doing it.
For example (and this is just for starters):
Quote:
Use an oxy-acetylene torch to apply as little heat as possible to melt the braze or silver solder attaching the actuating cable to the lock-out dog. When the braze or solder melts, a spring will pop the dog out.
Save the dog, spring, and washer. Push the cable back up into the lever about 4 inches, but don't remove it completely. Cut the lever as shown, removing approximately 2" where indicated. Chamfer both ends for welding.
Extend the cable through the end of the tube and slide a washer over it. Tack weld the washer in place centered on the tube. Be careful not to overheat the cable....
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08-13-2015, 05:47 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Southbury,
ct
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA, 428, 4 speed Toploader, Jag rear, Red with White stripes
Posts: 961
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt
These cars cry out for an aluminum flywheel. I have an overpriced Centerforce aluminum flywheel on my FE. But there are equivalents out there for half the price.
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My car also has an aluminum flywheel (don't know what kind).
I would agree with Patrick about this. The car is so light, and with an FE with lots of Torque, you don't need the inertia of the heavier steel flywheel. Car revs up very quickly like a freewheeling built small-block!
So my only complaint would be is that it does not hold the RPMs in between shifts because it is so light and there is no inertia. My first Cobra had a steel flywheel and my grandmother could have driven that car!!! Mine is a little more of a challenge to stay into the gas a bit more to get a clean smooth shift. That situation gets worse the hairier your cam is because it is very easy to fall out of the power range!
__________________
ERA#698 428, 4 speed Toploader, 3:31 Jag rear
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08-13-2015, 03:32 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Adelaide,
SA
Cobra Make, Engine: AP 289FIA 'English' spec.
Posts: 13,152
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by davids2toys
My car also has an aluminum flywheel (don't know what kind).
I would agree with Patrick about this. The car is so light, and with an FE with lots of Torque, you don't need the inertia of the heavier steel flywheel. Car revs up very quickly like a freewheeling built small-block!
So my only complaint would be is that it does not hold the RPMs in between shifts because it is so light and there is no inertia. My first Cobra had a steel flywheel and my grandmother could have driven that car!!! Mine is a little more of a challenge to stay into the gas a bit more to get a clean smooth shift. That situation gets worse the hairier your cam is because it is very easy to fall out of the power range!
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My engine is an SBF (car is an FIA replica) not an FE. I'm still not convinced that lighter is better in a flywheel. Of my two other cars, one has what feels like a heavier flywheel, and the other has what feels like a light flywheel. The heavier setup is the easier of the two to drive in a 'sporting' manner. So if you blip the throttle and the revs rise and fall more quickly with a light flywheel, where does that get you on the road? Track work with the revs always up near the top end would be different and would probably suit a light flywheel if the rest of your rotating mass is light as well
Back to you Phil
Cheers,
Glen
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