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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 04-03-2017, 04:11 PM
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Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevins2 View Post
Thanks much. I'm going to start by relocating the canceling pins as Bob described to eliminate the canceling too soon issue. For some reason, my switch works well and feels good for a right turn, but for left, it has a notchy feeling that you have to pass through (feels like forcing something). In the end, it works, but doesn't feel right. I'll see if I can figure out what's causing that when I take it off to relocate the pins.

Thanks again for the info. If I can't get mine to work better I'll just order this SWF switch and be done with it.
Hi Keven - if you go ahead and pull it out you might want to go ahead and pull it apart and examine the contracts. The contacts on one side got bent over on mine causing problems. I had already ordered a new one but went ahead and repaired the old one for a spare. Here is a picture of what I found.

These pictures aren't exactly self-explanatory but I remember the problem being pretty apparent once I had it out and opened up.





It may be possible to make an easy repair. Or it could be something completely different.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 04-03-2017, 04:29 PM
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Thanks Dan, I'll check it out. Appreciate the help.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2017, 04:57 AM
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I drilled new holes as Bob described to resolve the sensitive cancellation issue and it works great. In the photo below, you can see the pins in the original holes (I had already removed them - they're just sitting in the opening of the holes for the photo) and the new holes I drilled. The holes are about 1/32 from the inside wall of the hub, so need to be drilled accurately. If you drill them further out from the inner wall, the pins would rub the inside of the turn signal housing.



In my earlier post, I also mentioned my turn signal switch had a "notchy" feeling for a left turn. In studying how the mechanism works, I noticed that one of the pins was oriented such that the open side of the pin would contact the canceling mechanism and am guessing that could very well be catching on the canceling mechanism and causing the notchy feeling. I didn't see anything wrong with the turn signal - it operated fine holding it by hand and the contacts weren't bent. So, I reassembled everything - being careful to orient the pins so the open side would not contact the mechanism. The notchy feeling is gone and the canceling works much better.
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Last edited by kevins2; 04-16-2017 at 05:00 AM..
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