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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 04-26-2017, 09:23 PM
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Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 289 FIA 351W, B & B 427 Cobra, 331 Stroker,
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luce View Post
The answer to alignment issues may be make something similar to my base that has a flange that seals to the hood mounted air box. You can lay a layer of stretchy saran wrap or similar over your 8 stack set up, then glass it. Once cured, just lift if off the 8 stack and reinforce or add a flat flange.

I've made many small fiberglass parts like that.

I can see it being a challenge to line up a box with 8 holes on the hood. Having 2 boxes, one with filter and one that just seals to scoop would be cool, and easily swapped.
Now you have me thinking fiberglass would be a great way to go.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2017, 08:13 AM
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Cobra Make, Engine: Lone Star with IRS, 427W with megasquirt, T56 magnum
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Considering you have an ERA with pretty a close to traditional theme, I see where you would want to make it out of aluminum. But you can make some pretty nice looking and functional parts from 'glass.

Here's what I did with my Cobra. I have a 427W with port injection and 4 bbl throttle body. I made a 'glass turkey pan that uses the oval Cobra air cleaner and lid, but my base.

It was a 2 step process that you could use for your set up. I made foam plug that had high sides, but the base was carved for room for throttle linkage and various other bulges. Glassed it, then through the vent holes, marked, trimmed, marked and trimmed so I have a nice 5/8" clearance between the edge and hood.

Next, I masking taped the bottom of the hood and drew where the base would hit if it did touch as well as 4 or so witness marks. Then I removed the hood, layed the base on it and put a couple of hot glue dots to hold it in place. Because of the back reinforcing rib on the lone star hood, I slid the base back 1/2". This made it so the actual finished scoop would be shifted forward giving ample clearance. Next glass the flange. After a bit of filling and loving with sandpaper, I have a nice fitting part. I also incorporated a rear bracket to hold the pan, provide a hard mount for my IAT sensor, and a 1/2" tube to connect to the valve cover breather.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2017, 08:39 AM
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Side pipe in the first pic looks a little puny.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2017, 05:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luce View Post
Side pipe in the first pic looks a little puny.
Ha! But the turkey pan turned out nice! So does the pan lift off of the throttle body with the opening of the hood?
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 04-28-2017, 03:55 AM
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No, it's bolted to the bracket behind the throttle body with 2 5/16 nylock nuts, and the 1/4" stud that holds the air cleaner lid. And yes, I know what peril i'm in having nuts that could work lose and be ingested. If they ever have to be removed, they're replaced with new and never reused. I thought about drilling the stud and safety wiring them. I've also thought about glassing a screen to stop them, but instead I just don't reuse.

With your 8 stack, you could make a similar base to my vette's than sat on the throttle bodies you just lift off after opening the hood. The trumpets could hold the base captive and it could slide on a gasket on the hood mounted box. How soft are your motor mounts? If you're running rubber motor mounts, you'll need some allowance for motor movement under torque. That's where I was scratching my head about how to seal 8 holes to 8 trumpets without restricting them.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 04-28-2017, 03:46 PM
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On aircraft where heat can be an issue we use metal lock nuts not nylock as the radiant heat can affect the nylon.
Probably not in this case but a little extra insurance maybe.
Cheers
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 06-06-2017, 10:20 AM
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Elliptically deformed all metal nuts are the way to go. As indicated by " kyleb ". They will never back off and heat is not an issue. Nice project.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 06-26-2017, 07:23 AM
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Default Nice work

I had similar issues with the newer version. However i was not changing from ice ignition so needed a work around due to clearance issues such as the ones you had.
I machined up some spacers to lift the throttle bodies enough to clear the fuel lines and throttle bodies.
Now i have enough room to run the fuel lines back towards thr firewall instead of to the front as it is at the moment. Just havent got around to that as yet.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2020, 11:04 AM
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Hi Akimbeau. This was a great thread on the Speedmaster 8 stack EFI.

In your post you said: "After much internet searching I finally found a 2 wire MSD small cap distributor(black…sexy!) with the same height and size of the cast stock distributor, great! The MSD distributor was easily lockable and the phasable rotor was easy to get."

Can you provide an MSD part number for the distributor and the phasable rotor?

Thanks.

Cheers
Greg
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2020, 01:37 PM
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https://www.holley.com/products/igni...ord/parts/8578
https://www.holley.com/products/igni...rd/parts/85783


https://www.holley.com/products/igni...rs/parts/84211
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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2020, 09:34 AM
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Thanks spdbrake.

Looks like the one. I wonder if a lower profile dist cap is available. I'll have to look.

Cheers
Greg
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