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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 02-12-2019, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaydee View Post
I went from a 3/4 to 1 inch as the pedal ran out of travel. Now it takes a lot of pressure to stop it. I'll be going to instal a booster. Now the booster guy says to install a 3/4 inch booster which will double the pressure. But doesn't mean I'll be running out of pedal again? JD
Maybe. Depends on how long/deep the MC is, and what your pedal ratio is.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 02-18-2019, 12:11 PM
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Default Brake problems

Well I had both front calipers gone through and rebuilt. No real issues found I guess now it's just peace of mind. My whole braking system is now rebuilt so if i don't have more braking now it's the way God want's it. I can't take it out since there is 2 ft of snow in my yard so I guess I'll have to wait for better weather. Thanks to everyone for their input on this matter.
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Old 02-18-2019, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by classical glass View Post
Well I had both front calipers gone through and rebuilt. No real issues found I guess now it's just peace of mind. My whole braking system is now rebuilt so if i don't have more braking now it's the way God want's it. I can't take it out since there is 2 ft of snow in my yard so I guess I'll have to wait for better weather. Thanks to everyone for their input on this matter.
The bleeding process is NOT simple. There is a technique to it. ERA will tell you about a series of jacking up each side of the car in a certain progression. My mechanic created his own tool to help since we do these regularly and we don't have to jack up the car in strange sequences (:

I had a car that was built 20 years prior to me owning it. We determined that the rear brakes were never working since new, because they were never properly bled. There was NO wear on the rotors and the pads were like new still. After replacing the hoses and front to back line we still couldn't get fluid to easily pump back there until we isolated the rear MC and pumped away at it. That did the trick and then we were able to bleed all the brakes as a system and the rear brakes were working!

The key is to loosen the balance bar and bleed each master cylinder separately to make sure they are both pushing clean fluid all the way through and without any air bubbles. Bleed the clutch while you are at it. Do you have a single reservoir or 3 individual cans?

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Old 02-20-2019, 10:11 AM
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I have the 3 reservoir cans. The calipers were cleaned and gone through as stated in my post. Before we re mounted them the brake shop gave me blocks that were about the thickness of the rotor. The calipers were then bled while off the mounting brackets with the bleeders straight up. We used a electric vacuum pump and pressure bled them multiple times. Also I have speed bleeders on all calipers just to be sure. I'm very confident that there is no air in the lines. After all this work I can't test drive it for a while or until 18" of snow melts in my neighborhood.
Thanks.
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Old 02-20-2019, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by classical glass View Post
I have the 3 reservoir cans. The calipers were cleaned and gone through as stated in my post. Before we re mounted them the brake shop gave me blocks that were about the thickness of the rotor. The calipers were then bled while off the mounting brackets with the bleeders straight up. We used a electric vacuum pump and pressure bled them multiple times. Also I have speed bleeders on all calipers just to be sure. I'm very confident that there is no air in the lines. After all this work I can't test drive it for a while or until 18" of snow melts in my neighborhood.
Thanks.
I have never had the girling cans, but I have heard some stories that they can leak and become troublesome. If you are getting plenty of fluid while bleeding and it seems to flow equally front vs back while pumping the pedal while bleeding you should be OK. Did you notice that one or more of the calipers seemed to be struggling more to get fluid to flow out?
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Old 02-20-2019, 10:48 AM
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The reservoirs are not the problem. I had one leak completely dry and the brakes still worked fine because the fluid in the line leading from the MC, which has a tiny reservoir of its own, was sufficient to keep air out of the system. They are prone to leaks though.

Classical Gas -- have you reviewed the installation instructions found here: http://www.erareplicas.com/427man/br...conversion.pdf paying particular attention to the .060" centering requirement, shimming, and caliper bleeding eccentricities?
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