The ERA Slabside Q and A Thread

[dacobb]

Given the popularity of this version of the Cobra, I thought it might be worth it to consolidate all of the questions about building this car into just one thread, versus having this info spread throughout the various Slabside build threads out there (including my own).

Going forward, I plan to update my build in that thread, but ask questions in this one.

Hope you other Slabside guys think this is a good idea.

[dacobb]

So my first question is regarding insulation. I plan to place heat barrier insulation under the car and heat/sound barrier insulation in the cockpit.

What brand/product are you using or planning to use? There's a lot to choose from it seems.

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by dacobb

So my first question is regarding insulation. I plan to place heat barrier insulation under the car and heat/sound barrier insulation in the cockpit.

What brand/product are you using or planning to use? There's a lot to choose from it seems.

Not a slabside but an undercar exhaust car. I applied Lizardskin, a ceramic coating, on the underside of my floor panels, rear wheel well/trunk panesl and transmission tunnel. I have had some bubbling directly above my mufflers where it seems to have lost adhesion in areas. That could be due to my not scuffing up the aluminum enough for a good bite into it or just a limitation on the material. Otherwise, it probably helps but it's not enough and something is needed on top of the floor panels on the inside to. Not sure if I would use it again.

I applied a mastic dampening material (B-Quiet) and then a temperature material over that (Thermo-Tec) on the top side on the floor pans. I would not use the B-Quiet again probably due to it's weight. Instead I would use Frost King duct insulation like ERA applies to the foot boxes and I think it has a better insulation rating. It probably weights half as much. the Thermo Tec was a foil-surfaced, woven silica insulation and a self-adhesive backing. Very good stuff, not real expensive and light weight.

Lots of good products out there. Some are primarily for dampening road noise and vibration more than for insulation value.

[dacobb]

Also, if you are planning to purchase one of these gems, this might be a good place to ask us who have already pulled the trigger.

[desgros@vtlink.]

My ERA Slabside #3010 is my dream come true. Peter and his crew are simply outstand making ownership of the Slabside a real pleasure.









John
ERA Slabside #3010 289 BRG

[dacobb]

Originally Posted by desgros@vtlink.

My ERA Slabside #3010 is my dream come true. Peter and his crew are simply outstand making ownership of the Slabside a real pleasure.









John
ERA Slabside #3010 289 BRG

Yours is completed, correct?

[ANZAC]

Originally Posted by dacobb

Also, if you are planning to purchase one of these gems, this might be a good place to ask us who have already pulled the trigger.

OK I will bite.

I'm considering an ERA slabside. I'm 6'5 so that's one consideration... I know there are ways to accommodate.

I haven't spoken to ERA yet.

I'm pretty comfortable with mechanical and electric work. I've built several engines, manual transmissions, restored a few cars, built a competition car, built up a Jeep. I've got tools, engine stand, cherry picker etc. Don't have a lift but have a friend with one.

Things I won't touch: paint/bodywork, automatic transmissions, crown wheel and pinion setups/shimming.

One question I have is, for those who built a slab side from a kit, care to share your total build cost (including kit, w/ paint, wheels, tires, SBF/tranny etc?)

I would probably use one of ERA's suggested paint shops. No desire to find someone here to paint it (I have another unpainted repair job in my garage!)

Here are my current thoughts on what I'd like, I want to make it look like a very early street car:
- AC logo pedals, steering wheel and bonnet badge
- very mild 289/302 build, maybe roller rockers but very stock HiPo 289 look, 4 barrel, would be happy with 270-300hp
- TKO600
- Dunlop wire wheels (might prefer gray over chrome?)
- Smith's gauges
- leather interior
- clear parking light lenses
- no bumper rings, just the overriders

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by ANZAC

OK I will bite.

I'm considering an ERA slabside...

Your height is right on the edge of doability. It will really depend on where your height is (meaning the distances between your heel and knee, knee and hip, lower butt and head. You'll have to have a "butt in seat" test there at ERA to know for sure. Listen to me on this, I'm 6'4" and the poster child for putting a big guy successfully in to an ERA car. Another positive note from your post is that the engine you've spec'd out will be a piece of cake for any of the engine builders, so no problem there. Now for the downside. The car is going to cost more than you think. Guys will PM you specifics, but in your mind you should be factoring in an "all in" cost from everything (including flights to CT for a "tall man" fitting) approaching six figures. Another sad point is that the time will take longer than you think. A turnkey slabber will take over a year and, possibly, upwards from there (some guys have patiently waited for almost two). You won't know for sure until you talk with Peter. If you're really serious about getting an ERA, custom made to your specs, then send Peter a reservation check today so you get in the queue. If you change your mind, they just give it back to you. And you can work with them on a handshake basis. Take it from me, as someone who has to gird for battle on a daily basis, that part is indeed refreshing.

[ANZAC]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Your height is right on the edge of doability. It will really depend on where your height is (meaning the distances between your heel and knee, knee and hip, lower butt and head. You'll have to have a "butt in seat" test there at ERA to know for sure. Listen to me on this, I'm 6'4" and the poster child for putting a big guy successfully in to an ERA car.

Ah, I'd seen your pictures on the ERA site!

Another positive note from your post is that the engine you've spec'd out will be a piece of cake for any of the engine builders, so no problem there.

I'd prefer to build the engine at home, then take it to a local shop to dyno/jet/tune. I did this with my engine builder in Portland for one of my race engines. He did the machining, I did the assembly, then took it back there to dyno.

Now for the downside. The car is going to cost more than you think. Guys will PM you specifics, but in your mind you should be factoring in an "all in" cost from everything (including flights to CT for a "tall man" fitting) approaching six figures.

I fly to upstate New York every few months with work, going to try and figure a way to do a side trip from a NYC/EWR connection to visit ERA.

What are the other big costs beyond what you spent at ERA? Engine, trans, tires?
Or is it the death of 1,000 cuts?

Another sad point is that the time will take longer than you think. A turnkey slabber will take over a year and, possibly, upwards from there (some guys have patiently waited for almost two).

If I wanted a turnkey there are other quicker options, I'd personally prefer to build from a kit (assuming ERA does the bonding).

You won't know for sure until you talk with Peter. If you're really serious about getting an ERA, custom made to your specs, then send Peter a reservation check today so you get in the queue. If you change your mind, they just give it back to you. And you can work with them on a handshake basis. Take it from me, as someone who has to gird for battle on a daily basis, that part is indeed refreshing.

Well.... I need to get rid of at least one car first to make the boss happy....

[patrickt]

I think ERA charges ten grand to do all the work themselves, so that should give you an idea of what you can save by putting it all together yourself. There are sample spreadsheets and costs for the cars scattered around the ERA site, but once you know exactly what you want, Peter can spec the prices out pretty close. But different add-ons will start to add up. For instance, if you go for the six pin hubs, and a soft top with side curtains, and maybe you add in the big brake option, and some nicer gauges, leather, etc. The price will creep up faster than you might think.

[fintubi]

Originally Posted by ANZAC

OK I will bite.

I'm considering an ERA slabside.

Hi -

My car is one of the ERA slabsides completed in 2019. I built the car from a painted half-roller and assembled the engine from a bare block. I'm happy to share lots of details via PM, but the best places to start are:

FAQ (you probably know most of this)
Fabrication pictures (at ERA)
Engine build pictures (at my home)
Kit assembly pictures (at my home)

Also, listen to Patrick His budgetary cost estimate is accurate and he's got lots of other relevant experience (including being tall).

Happy New Year,
Bill

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by fintubi

Also, listen to Patrick His budgetary cost estimate is accurate and he's got lots of other relevant experience (including being tall).

Not to mention exceptionally good looking. This is from the ERA site. Note how I peer directly through the center of the windshield.

[ANZAC]

Originally Posted by fintubi

Hi -

My car is one of the ERA slabsides completed in 2019.

Happy New Year,
Bill

Thanks you! I replied to your post earlier - somehow got stuck in mod-land...
Maybe it will show up next year

[desgros@vtlink.]

Yes, my Slabside was built by ERA - Turnkey.


John
ERA #3010 BRG 289

[dacobb]

Unless someone talks me out of it, right now my choice is the Dynamat product. Somewhat expensive, but made in the USA which is a must for me.

The plan is to place Dynamat Extreme (sound), a 67 mil product inside the cockpit, then add the Dynaliner (thermal) either 1/8" or 1/4" on top of that, as recommended by the manufacturer.

Under the car, I will use either 1/4" or 1/2" Dynaliner.

I should end up with a pretty good sound/thermal barrier with that setup.

With the Dynaliner, should I go thin (1/8" top and 1/4" bottom), or thicker (1/4" top and 1/2" bottom)?

Or I could go 1/8" top and 1/2" bottom.

The Thermo Tec product also appears to be top notch and would be considered as well.

[DanEC]

Do any of the Dynomat or Dynaliner products actually quote a U-factor? If so I would take a look at those and compare to the Thermo Tec product.

Something I did also was run insulation across the top of the foot boxes inside the cockpit since they are exposed to the hot cockpit. I would be inclined to go the 1/4 stuff on all the floors or at least under the seats, possibly the end and top of the foot boxes, and use the 1/8 stuff everywhere else. The 1/2" stuff sounds really thick and will probably pose issues getting the seats bolted down and fitting the carpets. ERA cautions against using too thick of insulation to avoid problems fitting the carpets and getting them to lie flat and smooth. I didn't really have any trouble with all I put under the carpet but it probably is a caution to be aware of.

In general to the ERA community, has anyone used an insulation as thick as 1/2" on their floors?

[dacobb]

Originally Posted by DanEC

Do any of the Dynomat or Dynaliner products actually quote a U-factor? If so I would take a look at those and compare to the Thermo Tec product.

Something I did also was run insulation across the top of the foot boxes inside the cockpit since they are exposed to the hot cockpit. I would be inclined to go the 1/4 stuff on all the floors or at least under the seats, possibly the end and top of the foot boxes, and use the 1/8 stuff everywhere else. The 1/2" stuff sounds really thick and will probably pose issues getting the seats bolted down and fitting the carpets. ERA cautions against using too thick of insulation to avoid problems fitting the carpets and getting them to lie flat and smooth. I didn't really have any trouble with all I put under the carpet but it probably is a caution to be aware of.

In general to the ERA community, has anyone used an insulation as thick as 1/2" on their floors?

I could not find much tech data on their website. Like you I’d like to know more.

The Thermo Tec Super Sonic is 70 mil vs 67 mil of the Dynamat. That’s still pretty thin and might offer better sound deadening without it being too thick for carpets.

And then use 1/8” heat insulator on floor and 1/4” or 1/2” elsewhere.

The thin stuff should work pretty well on those exposed wheel wells that intrude behind the seats.

I too wonder if all that would be too thick for the seat bolts. I suppose you could cut around them.

So many choices

[dacobb]

So here's today's topic - Tires

My understanding is the ERA slabside will accept either 205/70r15 or 215/65r15 tires.

I am having difficulty finding a whitewall tire in either size.

Maxxis, a tire company from Taiwan, makes a 3/4" whitewall in the 205 size.

I can't find anyone who makes a whitewall in the 215 size.

And the coolest tire I have found is the Vredestein Sprint Classic which are about $250 each, but only in blackwall.

So, 1) are you considering a whitewall tire, and if yes 2) have you found one?

[LMH]

Originally Posted by dacobb

So here's today's topic - Tires

My understanding is the ERA slabside will accept either 205/70r15 or 215/65r15 tires.

I am having difficulty finding a whitewall tire in either size.

Maxxis, a tire company from Taiwan, makes a 3/4" whitewall in the 205 size.

I can't find anyone who makes a whitewall in the 215 size.

And the coolest tire I have found is the Vredestein Sprint Classic which are about $250 each, but only in blackwall.

So, 1) are you considering a whitewall tire, and if yes 2) have you found one?

It’s totally personal preference but we’ve found the Michelin XWX 215/70-15 to be about the best looking tire and best performer on the market! Its not a white wall but it’s profile and tread pattern look “right” and I think you’d find it’s what most original owners use on their cars.
Larry

[dacobb]

Originally Posted by LMH

It’s totally personal preference but we’ve found the Michelin XWX 215/70-15 to be about the best looking tire and best performer on the market! Its not a white wall but it’s profile and tread pattern look “right” and I think you’d find it’s what most original owners use on their cars.
Larry

I had those on my 1985 BMW 535.


Didn't know they are still making them.