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				12-06-2020, 09:20 AM
			
			
			
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					Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: West Chester, 
						PA Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #795 427 S/C completed Jan. '14 - '68 FE 427 side oiler 
						Posts: 1,059
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	|    Not Ranked 
				 Jaguar rear brakes help 
 I have the Jaguar inboard brakes rear and recently discovered the pads are worn and need replacement.  This is a bit puzzling because the front pads are fine.  When the car was new, I followed the instructions in the manual and waited until the brake pads were well seated and, as instructed, didn't mess with the front/rear bias.  When I tested the brakes, the fronts locked up before the rears just as they should, so I was good to go.  Now, after discovering the pads are worn thin on the rear, I tested the brakes again and the rears are locking a little before the front, so over the 16,500 miles, the bias changed and it never occurred to me to test locking the brakes periodically.  I'm assuming this is the cause of the premature wear.  
 Regardless, I'm looking for information and advice on replacing the rear pads.  The manual provides the part number as Lucas/Girling GP97.  Should I stick with them or consider different pads (I see a website called englishparts.com offers ceramic pads).  As for the rotors, I assume I can have them turned since the mileage is relatively low - the manual lists the thickness tolerances so I can check that.
 
 Lastly, I assume I can gain adequate access through the panel opening behind the seats by removing one seat, but not sure if I should just go ahead and remove them both.
 
 Anyway, looking for any and all tips and advice before ordering parts.
 
 Thanks,
 
 Kevin
 
				__________________"Anyone who drives faster than you is a maniac and anyone who drives slower than you is an idiot" - George Carlin
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				12-06-2020, 11:00 AM
			
			
			
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					Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Clayton, 
						IN Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 838 
						Posts: 1,130
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 I think you will need to remove both seats to get the panel out. It has been several years, and I can't remember for sure.
 ERA manual part number should be fine, then adjust bias after you bed them.
 
 John
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				12-07-2020, 10:12 AM
			
			
			
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					Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Southbury, 
						ct Cobra Make, Engine: ERA, 428, 4 speed Toploader, Jag rear, Red with White stripes 
						Posts: 922
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 Both seats and tunnel need to come out 
				__________________ERA#698 428, 4 speed Toploader, 3:31 Jag rear
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				12-07-2020, 10:38 AM
			
			
			
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					Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: New Britain, 
						CT Cobra Make, Engine: Size 10 Feet 
						Posts: 3,028
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 The rear pads wearing out before the fronts is highly unusual. I'd make sure that the rest of the system (i.e. balance bar and rear master cylinder) is working correctly.Jaguuar caliper service			 Last edited by strictlypersonl; 12-07-2020 at 11:04 AM..
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				12-07-2020, 11:25 AM
			
			
			
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					Join Date: Feb 2009 
						Posts: 1,696
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 It could be something as simple as what the pads are made out of. There are about 100 different formulas for brake pads. It could be nothing more than the rear pads are "stickier" than the front and simply wore faster. If you didn't change the front, you may want to think about getting the same pad brand/type for both the front and the rear. I like to use EBC Greenstuff pads. If you race the car, then their Yellowstuff or Redstuff pads are better. |  
	
		
	
	
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				01-15-2021, 04:46 AM
			
			
			
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					Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Little Rock area, 
						AR Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31 
						Posts: 4,533
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 Kevin - wondering if you got this sorted out yet and if you determined what caused the rapid wear? |  
	
		
	
	
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				01-15-2021, 05:57 AM
			
			
			
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			|  | CC Member   
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					Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: West Chester, 
						PA Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #795 427 S/C completed Jan. '14 - '68 FE 427 side oiler 
						Posts: 1,059
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 Dan, I re-inspected the brake pads and also inspected the rotors carefully. I also spun the rear wheels a lot and found no sign of dragging or anything wrong. There is still enough pad left to not worry about damaging the rotors, but they definitely need to be replaced soon.  Also, the rotors are in perfect condition, so I'll just replace the pads this time around.  I decided to go ahead and winterize the car and put it in the car bag.  I'll address the brakes next season when the weather is warmer.  When I replace the pads, I'll also inspect and tweak the bias bar and test to make sure the fronts are locking first.  As Bob said above, this is highly unusual, so I'll keep a close watch on this after replacing and making any adjustments.  As I said in my original post, I tested the brakes as instructed in the manual when the car was new (16,500 miles ago) and the fronts locked first.  It never occurred to me to test them periodically and I've not had to lock up the brakes until I tested them again recently after finally noticing the wear.  
 Kevin
 
				__________________"Anyone who drives faster than you is a maniac and anyone who drives slower than you is an idiot" - George Carlin
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				01-15-2021, 07:27 AM
			
			
			
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					Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Little Rock area, 
						AR Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31 
						Posts: 4,533
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 OK - thanks Kevin |  
	
		
	
	
	
	
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