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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 10-15-2021, 11:10 AM
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Default ERA Brake Master Cylinder adjustment rods

I just changed out the non-functioning hydraulic brake light switch on the master cylinder on #804. The new switch solved the problem of no brake lights . This subject has been covered several times in this forum including a "factory" bulletin on how to replace the switch. While I was under the car I did an inspection of other components of the brake system that is covered by the aluminum box protecting the master cylinders. I found some play in the adjustment rods as shown in the video link below. Just want to verify that this is not something I should be concerned with. Thanks in advance.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YzI7iJP7CR0
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Old 10-15-2021, 11:42 AM
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There is wobble built in to the brake balance bar. Seriously though, take a look at the manual and see the instructions on changing front to rear bias. You change fluid pressures by moving the shims around from one side of the bearing to the other.

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Old 10-15-2021, 04:27 PM
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Yes, normal.
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Old 10-16-2021, 10:27 AM
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Thank you Patrickt and Dan. She's all buttoned back up and everything is working fine. Patrickt, the brake bias was fine before I installed the new switch so I left that as is.
While the car was up in the air I installed a 180 degree oil cooler thermostat adapter in place of the standard cooler adapter. I wasn't getting sufficient oil temps with no thermostat and now I get consistent 180-200 degrees which is much better for the engine.
The Derale oil thermostat sandwich adapter is plug and play with the correct 3/8" NPT ports.
https://derale.com/product-footer/fi...iameter-detail
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Old 10-22-2021, 07:00 AM
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The engine is designed for good hot oil. No stat is not a good idea imho.
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Old 10-22-2021, 07:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
The engine is designed for good hot oil. No stat is not a good idea imho.
Yep, nothing like good hot brake fluid boiling up and turning to gas just as you near the switchback at a good 110. Wait, that's not right....
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Old 10-22-2021, 08:28 AM
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It has been my experience that the oil coolers installed on most replica's do not allow the engine oil temps to reach optimum operating temperature. Even on a hot day, prior to installing the oil temp thermostat the oil temps would seldom go above 60 degrees Celsius. Unless you are consistently running at high RPM's such as on a race track, the oil temp just does not get to where it should be. Blocking off the oil cooler just looks goofy IMHO and is nowhere near as effective as doing it the right way. This simple thermostat sandwich adapter is easy to install and works as advertised.
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Old 10-22-2021, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackbart View Post
Even on a hot day, prior to installing the oil temp thermostat the oil temps would seldom go above 60 degrees Celsius.
60C is awfully low. And now with the thermostat you're at a nice healthy 85C or so?
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Old 10-22-2021, 09:02 AM
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I have asserted since I got mine that the Cobra radiator + oil cooler over cools the engine. I messed around with higher thermostat temps but would have put in an oil cooler thermostat had I kept it another year. Since then I've seen some simply disconnect it.
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Old 10-22-2021, 09:15 AM
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60C is awfully low. And now with the thermostat you're at a nice healthy 85C or so?
Yes Patrickt, had it out yesterday, 52 degrees F outside in upstate NY, oil temp went to 85-90C. Took awhile to get there but once there it stayed very constant. If it cooled down too much I made the sacrifice of pushing on the loud pedal a little harder.
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Old 10-22-2021, 10:49 AM
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You know, I tend to agree with you that my cover could look just a bit more trick. Over the winter I think I might change the front appearance of it to look more like this, instead of flat aluminum. The black holes will not really be holes through to the cooler because the metal sheet behind it will be painted flat black, but you won't be able to tell that when you look at it. I'll have to fab it up and install it though to see if I really like it or not.



Here are two pics of my oil cooler cover as it exists now. It is easily removable by just reaching in through the wheel wells and unhooking the fastening springs, which you can see in the second pic.



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Old 10-22-2021, 12:22 PM
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Here's a quick photoshop of the idea. So that it kind of matches the fresh air intakes that you can kind of see on the right hand side.

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Old 10-22-2021, 02:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt View Post
Here's a quick photoshop of the idea. So that it kind of matches the fresh air intakes that you can kind of see on the right hand side.

That definitely looks better Patrickt and inspires hope in your thinking process, but come on, just do it!
(and hurry, there are only six left in stock)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/d...RoCn1EQAvD_BwE
Disclaimer: No financial interest, that I know of, in any manufacturer or vender....
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Old 10-22-2021, 02:33 PM
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Or, I could paint the cover to match the black stripe and little stripe in the middle. That might look good too.
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Old 10-30-2021, 10:21 AM
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Default See if this looks better...

Here's the grill piece cut and fabbed in. It's still easily removable by hand and comes right out the front but does look noticeably better. The way it looked before was hard to notice, but did bug me. Here are the before and after pics.

Before:



After:

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Old 06-16-2022, 03:49 PM
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I couldn’t get my oil temp high enough with a cooler so I disconnected it, didn’t seem to change much, but I haven’t had it out on an upper 90s yet. I do have an 7 qt. T pan.
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Old 06-16-2022, 05:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobragene View Post
I couldnít get my oil temp high enough with a cooler so I disconnected it, didnít seem to change much, but I havenít had it out on an upper 90s yet. I do have an 7 qt. T pan.
My cover didn't really end up changing the final oil temp after it had been running for, say, about an hour. Instead my oil just heated up noticeably faster. Which, in turn, heated the engine up faster (not the coolant temperature, but the true temperature of the iron block). The oil temperature, with or without the cover on, will eventually settle in at the upper 80's Celsius, but it takes maybe a half hour longer to get there without the cover. Ehhh, the cover might bump the temperature up a degree or two. The car really runs its best when the entire engine is thoroughly warmed. The harder you run it, the better it runs. Now, with an iron block, aluminum heads, and aluminum roller rockers, you can really tell the disparate heat expansion and its effect on the solid flat tappets. When the car is cold (meaning 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit) the lash is .018 and the clatter is almost non existent. After ten or 15 minutes of driving, the aluminum heads and rocker arms have expanded out so if you measured the lash at that point it might be close to .030 and you can clearly hear it. But give it 20 minutes for the iron block to catch up and the lash drops down to about .025 or so and the valve train sounds just right with just the right amount of clatter.
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Old 06-17-2022, 12:49 PM
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I realize the original topic on this thread was from 2021, but thought I'd post something related to the brake bias bar in case it helps anyone else. After I built my car 8 years and just shy of 18,000 miles ago, I followed the instructions to test the brake bias after the brakes were seated. On a damp road, the fronts locked up first, as they should. I've fortunately never had a need to lock up the brakes since and didn't think to recheck the bias at any point. Recently, I discovered that my rear brake pads are very thin (Jag inboard brakes). I tested the bias again on a wet road and the rears locked up first. So, something changed over time. I have the new brake pads to put on, but just thought I'd suggest that it might be a good idea to periodically check the bias. It's also true that I could have done a better job inspecting my brake pads over time - just never thought they'd wear like that. Oh well, not a big deal.

As for the oil cooler, I installed one but didn't connect the hoses, so it's just there to fill the opening. Even on a hot day, the oil stays in the 80 - 90 C. range. Spirited driving may elevate it a bit beyond that but not much and it comes back down quickly.
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Old 06-23-2022, 06:17 AM
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I have the usual 7-1/2 to 8 quart oil pan on mine and no oil cooler and what is probably a too-cool 160 deg thermostat. My coolant runs around 80 C but oil seldom rises much above 70 C - assuming the gages are correct. And as is, it takes awhile for the oil temp to even get to 70. I just can’t see needing a functional oil cooler in one of these for the street.
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Old 06-23-2022, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevins2 View Post
I realize the original topic on this thread was from 2021, but thought I'd post something related to the brake bias bar in case it helps anyone else. After I built my car 8 years and just shy of 18,000 miles ago, I followed the instructions to test the brake bias after the brakes were seated. On a damp road, the fronts locked up first, as they should. I've fortunately never had a need to lock up the brakes since and didn't think to recheck the bias at any point. Recently, I discovered that my rear brake pads are very thin (Jag inboard brakes). I tested the bias again on a wet road and the rears locked up first. So, something changed over time.
I'm really surprised that the rear pads have worn that much. Very unusual.
It may be that the front pads have glazed and they no longer work as original, so you've been overusing the rears with normal light braking. You might try either sanding the front pads or replacing them with new ones.
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