Flickering alternator gage.

[patrickt]

You could actually test out the modification with two feet of twelve gauge wire with alligator clips on each end. Clip one gator end on the top post of the circuit breaker over by the starter solenoid and the other end on the passenger side clip of the #1 glass fuse. Then just drape the wire behind the engine so it's not in the way of anything (like maybe the throttle linkage). Then drive your car around for a weekend and see if you like the new behavior of the amp gauge.

[DanEC]

Originally Posted by patrickt

You could actually test out the modification with two feet of twelve gauge wire with alligator clips on each end. Clip one gator end on the top post of the circuit breaker over by the starter solenoid and the other end on the passenger side clip of the #1 glass fuse. Then just drape the wire behind the engine so it's not in the way of anything (like maybe the throttle linkage). Then drive your car around for a weekend and see if you like the new behavior of the amp gauge.

Got it - top screw post on the relay and over to pass side of #1 fuse. May be a few weeks before I can try it out but I’ll try it and see what happens. What should I expect to see - just smaller flickers in the gage?

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by DanEC

Got it - top screw post on the relay and over to pass side of #1 fuse. May be a few weeks before I can try it out but I’ll try it and see what happens. What should I expect to see - just smaller flickers in the gage?

It will still show you charging/discharging conditions pretty clearly, but the in-rush current surge for inductive loads (like your fan motors) won't catch your eye as much with large needle swings. You'll still notice them if you're looking at the gauge but they won't be as dramatic. The action of a 12 gauge shunt wire though will help protect the ammeter from overheating, which creates more resistance, which creates more heat, which creates more resistance, which creates a bad day under the dash. There is no down side to adding the shunt unless after doing so you say "my ammeter doesn't even work now." I don't think that will be the case though. If that did occur it would mean there was unusual resistance in the ammeter gauge and line itself and now most of the current is choosing the shunt line because it is the path of least resistance. I don't think that is the case but you would know fairly quickly. In fact you wouldn't even have to start the car. Just clip the alligator leads on and then turn your headlights on. You can compare the "shunting effect" by looking at the ammeter with the headlights on, and the engine not running, and then remove one alligator clip and see how the needle changes. The change in the position of the needle is the result of the shunt.