More Issues

[Ikestaa]

Bob and anyone else who can help out,
As we move along we've been running into some small issues.
1. The brake lights come on when the brake is not applied and go off when the brakes are applied. Similarly, when the lights are on and you apply the brakes, they go from bright to dim. We confirmed this by testing the sensor on the master. There is nothing in between the left and right posts, or left and top posts. When the brake is off, there is continuity between the top and right, brake is applied, and no continuity. Basically, the switch is working backwards as it is setup now.

2. The speedometer (Autometer) reads forward speed when the wheels are running in reverse, and backwards (odometer started to tick back to 999999) when running in any forward gear. We have the 18 tooth green LH driven speedometer gear on a 4 speed toploader. I am guessing it is an issue with the speedometer. If it helps, Autometer states that it will read 60mph for 1000 rev/min.

3. The tach (also autometer) has a different wiring scheme than the Smiths and SW. It has a neg ground, a signal and a pos 12V posts. Yesterday we hooked up a 12V wire (from the cigarette lighter that is not being used) to see if that would work. The tach dropped from 2100rpm (where it has been sitting since we got it) to about 100rpm. It still did nothing when the car was started though. Would it help to hook the 12V supply upto a 12V ignition wire instead of the constantly live cigarette lighter?

4. The windshield wipers were installed yesterday and work for the most part. They work fine on the high setting, but on the low setting they will do nothing if they are already parked. If you are running on the high setting, then switch to low, they will park themselves, but they will do it slowly. Any ideas?

I know it is a pretty long list, but these are the last issues that we have left (hopefully ). Thanks in advance for any help that you guys can offer.

[Whaler]

I would like to ask about item #2
Do you use a reverse gear adapter ( the little 90 degree). The attachement at the end of your speedo cable that attaches to the speedo. If so its likely you have to take it apart and reverse the worm gear end for end. this will remedy the problem This making the output reverse instead of direct.

Tim

[M & M]

Had the same problem with my toploader.

Check the driven gear (one at the transmission end of the speedo cable) to make sure you have got the proper one rotating on the drive gear (one on the tail shaft). It is very easy to pull, one bolt and it slides out. If the gear looks fine, and it is not cross rotating (you will see a cross grove in the plastic gear) then you have two choices.

1. Plull the tail shaft and replace the drive gear (and driven gear) to get the cable rotation the other direction or

2. As Whaler suggested remove or add a 90 degree adaptor. I could not do this because of the way the cable feeds to my speedo, no room or flexability to readjust the direction of cable input into the speedo head.

Remove and replacing the tail shaft housing and drive gear is not too hard, especially if you have a car lift. It took me about 3 hours.

Mike

[Ikestaa]

Do you think we could remove the tail shaft just by taking the driveshaft out while still leaving the tranny in?

On a side note, we took her out for the maiden voyage this morning. No doors, no hood, and seats that aren't bolted down. Best ride of my life!! I'll try and post a video.

[M & M]

You do not need to pull the whole tranny. You pull the tail shaft cover. The actual tail shaft stays there. The speedo driven gear is on the tail shaft and is held by a retainer clip.

You can see the whole deal by looking at the pictures at David Kee's web site.

Mike

[trularin]

On # 3, you need to make sure the ground is a real good ground.

Connect the 12V to 12V and the signal goes to either the contact for the distributor or the TACH output from your ignition box.

Your brake lights are wire backwards. This may sound a bit strange, but is the brake switch a "Normally open" or "Normally closed"? You can read across the switch to see if there is little or no resistance ( this means it is "Normally closed" ). With the Ohm meter across the switch, press the brake. The Ohm meter should change. You need to make these readings with the battery disconnected.

Anyway, mail us back with the type of switch you are using. We can go from there.

Hope this helps.

[Bob Putnam]

Ike,

Brake lights: First, to simplify things, remove the plug from the inside master cylinder. It's a redundant switch system that is really unnecessary. Check that the wires in the working plug are connected as shown below. The wires can be switched by inserting a flat jeweler's screwdriver from the plug end.



Speedometer: You will need a reverser that goes somewhere in-line between the trans and the speedo.

Tach: The green wire (#6) should be live with the ignition on, and the orange wire comes from the distributor as a signal. If you are using an MSD, the signal will come from that somehow.

Wipers: It sounds like the connections at the switch are incorrect.

[Ikestaa]

Bob,
You're a genious! Tach-fixed, Wipers-fixed, speedo-will be fixed. One area where I think there is a discrepancy is the brake switch situation. It appears as though we only have one brake light switch on the inner (rear) master. On this switch, it is closed when the brake is not applied, and open when the brake is applied. Even if it were a redundant switch, it shouldn't operate like this should it? I have attatched pics so you can see what we have.

[Bob Putnam]

Ike,

We may have "trimmed" the second brake switch plug off your harness. Don't worry about it. Just make sure that the pink and green wires on the switch are on opposite terminals. You can cut the violet wire right out of the circuit.

[Ikestaa]

I'll give it a try. Thanks!

[Ikestaa]

Well, as it turns out, we simply weren't pushing on the brake pedal hard enough. We really have to mash it to get the lights to come on. Would you recommend loosening the sensor on the inner master to basically bleed it to see if air is causing the troubles?

[Whaler]

when i took mine to work to test the as found pressure that triggers a state change it was 70 psi,,, in other words not much.

Surprised you have to stand on the pedal?? Is the pedal fairly firm on the first stab??

Tim

[Ikestaa]

No, not right now. We have bled the brakes about 3 times, but they need to be bled again. The pedal will go about half way down before it starts to get very firm. (The initial drive was a little trick. I hit the throttle more than once while braking. )

[Corky]

I have been having problems with brake lights. I find I have to have the brake pedal depresed hard to have the lights come on. I have good braking and even pressure but just aplying the brakes, I have no brake lights. I have considered using a mechanical swith, so that just tuching the pedal activates the lights. Any thoughts?, Bob or any one else?

Corky

[NeedAntiVenom]

Corky,

There is another thread about this, Bob mentioned he was looking into switches that require less pressure.

Brakes

Jim

[Bob Putnam]

We should be getting the New! Improved! switches in within a week. If you're having trouble with yours, e-mail me at eracars@aol.com.

Sorry about the bad batch we got. These new ones are from a company that has a reputation for high-quality parts.

I hope so.