11-10-2003, 05:34 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Las Vegas,
NV
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 427 SO
Posts: 1,126
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Not Ranked
Veg, I thought someone would come to the rescue earlier, but not, so here goes...
the clutch adjustment for a standard setup (not hydraulic throwout bearing) has the slave cylinder down low on the driver's side, right where the bell housing meets the block. A threaded rod comes out of the slave cylinder toward the rear, and goes through a threaded adjuster with a ball end, and on through a hole in the outer end of the clutch fork (which comes out of the bellhousing on the drivers side, near where the lower front corner of the tunnel meets the lower front corner of the driver's foot box.
Okay, to take up free play in the clutch, make the rod longer. If you don't have a return spring on the clutch fork, the book calls for you to lengthen the rod until the slave cylinder is just bottomed out, then shorten the rod until you have about 1/4" play. If you have a return spring, make the free play 1/16" with the spring off, then put the spring back on. All of the above assumes the clutch pedal height is correct. With a spring, adjust every 6000 miles. Make sure you push and hold the slave cylinder to a bottomed out position (toward the front of the car) with your third hand while making the free play adjustment.
You'll need 2 half-inch open end wrenches. And three hands.
Let us know if you need additional help or if this makes assolutely NO sense...
The clutch pedal BTW, should be adjusted about even with the brake pedal, or maybe slightly higher if you need the extra travel...
__________________
Ken
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