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2Likes

03-14-2016, 05:48 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by 66gtk
Thanks! I couldn't get the fitting loose, even with 2 different flare nut wrenches I tried. Looks like I have to crush it and get it off with a vice grip?!?!? If I do that, I'll have to replace the hard line down the whole side of the car. This is unfortunate. 20 year old car with hardly any miles - I guess this is what can happen when cars sit too long.
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Heat it up with a torch with a welding blanket behind it and use the flare wrench again. Be careful around flammables, of course.
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03-14-2016, 06:37 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,533
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Not Ranked
Troy - here is what I've done with frozen brake and fuel line fittings when a brake line wrench appears to be slipping. Provided there is room, I get a set of vice grips and clamp over the top of the brake line wrench to clamp it tighter and prevent spreading. I've not had it fail on me yet that I can remember and I'm currently in the process of replacing all the original brake lines on my 49 year old 67 GTX right now. A shot of PB Blaster got most of them loose. The vice grips worked on a couple stubborn ones. I just have the two lines at the MC left.
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03-14-2016, 08:06 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 973
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC
Troy - here is what I've done with frozen brake and fuel line fittings when a brake line wrench appears to be slipping. Provided there is room, I get a set of vice grips and clamp over the top of the brake line wrench to clamp it tighter and prevent spreading. I've not had it fail on me yet that I can remember and I'm currently in the process of replacing all the original brake lines on my 49 year old 67 GTX right now. A shot of PB Blaster got most of them loose. The vice grips worked on a couple stubborn ones. I just have the two lines at the MC left.
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Interesting idea. I did PB blast it a few hours before trying. Put some more on there and will try again tomorrow or the next day.
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03-15-2016, 06:05 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Little Rock area,
AR
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA Street Roadster #782 with 459 cu in FE KC engine, toploader, 3.31
Posts: 4,533
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by 66gtk
Interesting idea. I did PB blast it a few hours before trying. Put some more on there and will try again tomorrow or the next day.
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Forgot to mention that I have a couple sets of the smaller vice grips (about 4 to 5 inches long) that work pretty well for the smaller fittings. They are a lot easier to position in tight spaces than a full size set of vice grips. I've pretty much decided that line wrenches have been vastly over-promoted over the years. They work just slightly better than a regular box end wrench IMO.
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03-14-2016, 08:05 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 973
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt
Heat it up with a torch with a welding blanket behind it and use the flare wrench again. Be careful around flammables, of course.
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like the gas tank, fuel hose, and filter right next to the brake line? 
__________________
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03-14-2016, 08:12 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by 66gtk
like the gas tank, fuel hose, and filter right next to the brake line? 
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Uhhh, yeah. You can also use a heat gun, instead of a torch, if that feels a little safer. If you can get the connection nice and hot, without blowing yourself up, it will come apart rather easily. 
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