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				07-10-2008, 05:53 AM
			
			
			
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					Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Central, 
						NC Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #775 
						Posts: 324
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 It's always the small things that get you.
 I had a Thunderbird which had a hydraulic clutch, but there was this short 1 inch cable... you can figure out the rest.
 
 Glad to hear that you were able to get the Cobra home safely.
 
 Ray
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				07-10-2008, 10:34 AM
			
			
			
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			|  | Club Cobra Member   
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					Join Date: Nov 1999 Location: Salem,, 
						NJ Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 289 FIA #2100  Rio Red Wimbledon White Stripes 302 stroked to 331 Webers Richmond Road Race 5 speed 
						Posts: 782
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	|    Not Ranked 
 I was under my ERA last night adjusting the brake and clutch pedals.  I'm thinking of taking a socket head allen screw and drilling a hole through the head and safety wiring it to the arm. 
				__________________  Snakebit
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				07-11-2008, 06:56 AM
			
			
			
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					Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Hyannis, 
						MA Cobra Make, Engine: ERA FIA #2039 
						Posts: 255
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				 Tie Downs 
 Bob, Tell me about the "tie downs built into the lower control arms".  I've been using the two extra treaded holes in back of the rear cross member and forged eye bolts.  The down side is crawling under the car to hook them.
 Pat
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				07-11-2008, 07:43 AM
			
			
			
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			|  | Half-Ass Member   
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					Join Date: Jun 2005 Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum 
						Posts: 22,025
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				 Here you go... 
 
	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by ack fia  Tell me about the "tie downs built into the lower control arms".  I've been using the two extra treaded holes in back of the rear cross member and forged eye bolts.  The down side is crawling under the car to hook them. |    
BTW, I had the car back out on the road today after using LocTite on the set screw.  Everything felt fine so what I think i might do, considering the likelihood of removing it again is probably small, is put a dab of J-B Weld in the middle of the spline and piece of metal extending from nine o'clock over to three o'clock thus holding the arm on even if the set-screw breaks off.  If I ever have to remove the arm I'll just bust the J-B Welded metal piece loose by sticking a screw driver under it. |  
	
		
	
	
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				07-11-2008, 08:14 AM
			
			
			
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					Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: New Britain, 
						CT Cobra Make, Engine: Size 10 Feet 
						Posts: 3,028
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 On the Jag-based suspension, there's a tie-bar between the lower shock mount and the hub carrier pivot shaft (if we built the suspension unit).  It's got a hole in it big enough for a hook, or you can put a strap around it. |  
	
		
	
	
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				07-15-2008, 07:19 AM
			
			
			
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			|  | Half-Ass Member   
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					Join Date: Jun 2005 Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum 
						Posts: 22,025
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				 Final Pic to Close Out This Thread 
 Frankly, the LocTite on the set-screw seems to be, and probably is, sufficient to ensure that the clutch arm doesn't vibrate loose.  Not to mention the fact that once you know what's happened you can literally prop something behind your clutch pedal and then reach under the car from the driver's side and put the arm back on by feel and carefully limp home should it happen to you.  That being said I did add this last bit of safety margin.  It's simply a 1-1/4" fender washer with a dab of J-B Weld on the spline and washer-hole.  Now if I need to remove the clutch arm sometime in the future I will have to whack this off with a screwdriver and mallet, but this will hold the arm securely should the set-screw manage to vibrate out past the LocTite.  |  
	
		
	
	
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				07-15-2008, 03:49 PM
			
			
			
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					Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: E BRUNSWICK N.J. USA, 
						 
						Posts: 3,841
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				 Hey Pat silly question 
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				07-15-2008, 04:07 PM
			
			
			
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					Join Date: Jun 2005 Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum 
						Posts: 22,025
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by RICK LAKE  PatrickT Pat will a screw go all the way through the part? |  Yes, it would if I drilled in to the splined piece -- it was just easier to use a little J-B Weld.  You know, more half-ass that way....  |  
	
		
	
	
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				07-16-2008, 03:43 AM
			
			
			
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					Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: New Britain, 
						CT Cobra Make, Engine: Size 10 Feet 
						Posts: 3,028
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 I wouldn't obsess too much about the arm coming off.  Pat's experience is the only one that I know of that's occurred in 15 years of using the splined connection.  He's just special.   |  
	
		
	
	
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				07-16-2008, 03:59 AM
			
			
			
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					Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: E BRUNSWICK N.J. USA, 
						 
						Posts: 3,841
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				 He is a special GUY@#$!%^ 
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				07-16-2008, 04:50 AM
			
			
			
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					Join Date: Jun 2005 Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum 
						Posts: 22,025
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by strictlypersonl  He's just special.   |  Yes, my next project is to build a Cobra using nothing more than duct tape, coat hanger wire, and J-B Weld.  |  
	
		
	
	
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				07-16-2008, 05:55 AM
			
			
			
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					Join Date: May 2004 Cobra Make, Engine: ERA-722, Pure Street in BRG 
						Posts: 192
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 I'm glad this thread came up.  I was under my car the other day and checked the set screw and could take it out with my fingers it was that loose.
 Thanks for the info!
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				07-16-2008, 06:19 AM
			
			
			
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			|  | Half-Ass Member   
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					Join Date: Jun 2005 Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum 
						Posts: 22,025
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	Quote: 
	
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					Originally Posted by FrankJohnson69  I was under my car the other day and checked the set screw and could take it out with my fingers it was that loose. |  Dang, I guess I'm not that special after all....  |  
	
		
	
	
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				07-16-2008, 08:35 AM
			
			
			
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					Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: E BRUNSWICK N.J. USA, 
						 
						Posts: 3,841
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				 You forgot bubblegum, baling wire, and spit 
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