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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 02-19-2010, 08:41 PM
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Upon further examination tonight sans the alcohol enjoyed the prior evening, it would appear that in fact this is a crack. Inspection of the other 15 has revealed no similar issues. Talk amongst yourselves some more, its funny.
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 02-19-2010, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elmariachi View Post
Upon further examination tonight sans the alcohol enjoyed the prior evening, it would appear that in fact this is a crack. Inspection of the other 15 has revealed no similar issues. Talk amongst yourselves some more, its funny.
Was the alcohol used to clean the rod or lubricate the inspector?
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 02-19-2010, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt View Post
Was the alcohol used to clean the rod or lubricate the inspector?
Uhhhhhh, yes.
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 02-19-2010, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elmariachi View Post
Uhhhhhh, yes.
Alright. Dennis will most assuredly put that push rod through the equivalent of an MRI. Hopefully Pierre will then give you a report.
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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 02-20-2010, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elmariachi View Post
Upon further examination ... it would appear that in fact this is a crack. Inspection of the other 15 has revealed no similar issues. :
Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt View Post
All advice on this forum is pro bono.
---And coming from you-useless.

Shout about balls, pussies and declines and if followed, your un- thought out advice would have been costly to yet another CC'er.

Stick to clown-show quizzes, puzzles and cartoons, which you're really good at- and put down the Zagats Guide from which you dispense authoritative, weighty technical advice.
You're getting mud on your spats here.
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  #6 (permalink)  
Old 02-20-2010, 08:39 AM
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Chas, Chas, Chas, you must wait to hear the report from Smith Bros. But of course, I know you will still stand by your position even after the report comes back that the "crack" was nothing more than a harmless surface blemish that is seen all the time.
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Old 02-19-2010, 09:21 PM
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When I posted that thread last night, I was sorta expecting 4 or 5 concurring votes one way or the other. Nope, you guys had to get partisan on me. It may be nothing, but other than the weekend inconvenience of not driving it, its worth finding out if its a scratch or a fracture.
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Old 02-19-2010, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elmariachi View Post
When I posted that thread last night, I was sorta expecting 4 or 5 concurring votes one way or the other. Nope, you guys had to get partisan on me. It may be nothing, but other than the weekend inconvenience of not driving it, its worth finding out if its a scratch or a fracture.
Oh, it's going to come back as a "harmless scratch." It will be at that point that ERAChas twists the thread over to a conspiracy/cover-up thread by SB to try and rob me of another thread-win.
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Old 02-19-2010, 09:45 PM
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Hell that explains everything.

Never ask your medical doctor for legal advice

Never ask your mechanic for medical advice

And never ask your attorney to build your engine

To do so is a waste of money and time at best or certain death at worst


Last edited by olddog; 02-19-2010 at 09:50 PM..
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  #10 (permalink)  
Old 02-19-2010, 11:29 PM
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A 10X magnifying glass would probably have calmed your heart. I have seen parts that had what would look to be cracks to the naked eye. When you view it with a magnifier details show.
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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 02-20-2010, 05:35 AM
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Default I will wait for the Smith test to see

As far as pushrods are made, they don't do much welding any more. The tubes are cut to length. The ends are machined square. The end are super heated and the ends are pushed into the tubes. The machine holds the pushrod straight and cools it with oil. They check them for straightness and are either go or no go. Boxed and shipped The new taper ones are the newwer trick setups with 3/8" main bodies and 11/32 or 5/16 ends Stronger and more ridged.

Pat for a nice guy, I didn't think this was about winning or losing. I thought it was about a $20.00 part helping out a CC member, and possible saving a $20,000.00 motor from damage. Smith will test it I hope and we will all learn something new.

As far as the piston deal I am again surprised about not having scuff coatings on the side of the pistons. Pistons used to have long skirts to stop rock in the cylinders and now they have almost none in some motors. I know the scratches you are talking about. It's funny I 3 years ago, put a stroker kit in my SC block and checked the liners after 8 years of racing. I found 1 cylinder with a scratch at .0008" Leak down test was between 4-7%. The #5 was the scratched cylinder at 7%. Maintainance and alot of oil changes helped reduce this problem. I have all pistons I install have scuff pads or coatings on them. They may last only 30- 50 thousand miles in a normal car and motor but in cobra motors, most are ready for a rebuild by this time.
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Old 02-20-2010, 06:18 AM
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Replace the push rod, and send the old one to anybody that needs one for their FE motor....I'm sure they will appreciate your generosity.....or

.....Make sure you have a magnet on the drain plug to catch all the metal parts.
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Old 02-20-2010, 01:31 PM
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You boys be nice or I'm not going to post the findings, leaving you to suffer never knowing.
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Old 02-20-2010, 01:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elmariachi View Post
You boys be nice or I'm not going to post the findings, leaving you to suffer never knowing.
I already know the answer. But, Chas & Rick could bolster their positions if they could cite a single instance on ClubCobra, FordFE, or even the Ford Truck Forums, where an FE push rod bent or broke because of a crack in the push rod itself, not because of a valve train issue (stuck valve, etc.) or because they were the wrong size, mismatched, or the tips were wrong. They're not going to be able to do it and, what's more, they're going to come up with some sort of lame excuse for refusing to do so.
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Old 02-20-2010, 02:19 PM
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Yada, yada....

Hammerhead-those of us that stress the car more forcefully than a leisurely trip to the haberdasher won't drive with cracked parts in the motor. Period. No matter what event, condition, method or material was the cause.
Rick and I have to prove nothing. We're content to let you continue to be the Village Idiot.

Nobody on here will be rushing to buy 732 when it's no longer your fave diversion, knowing you'd overlook junk parts in it..

Continue your serial blather- elM knows how to solve his problems, overlooking your relentless attempts at intellectual prowess and debating skill.
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Old 02-20-2010, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERA Chas View Post
Yada, yada....

Rick and I have to prove nothing....
That's a lame excuse. I now double-dog dare ya....
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Old 02-21-2010, 10:09 AM
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Default Gettin' good

Jim (elM)
Would you pass me some popcorn, this is getting better by the moment

Paul
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Old 03-02-2010, 07:49 AM
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I didn't say you're wrong....but I would trust el's common sense. Plus he's the one that's actually looking at the thing in person.

My point is there's no harm in being cautious.
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Old 03-02-2010, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blykins View Post
My point is there's no harm in being cautious.
Surely you have considered that the better position is when you have a perfectly broken in solid flat tappet cam in your FE you do not pull the rockers and rods absent a compelling reason to do so....
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Old 03-02-2010, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt View Post
Surely you have considered that the better position is when you have a perfectly broken in solid flat tappet cam in your FE you do not pull the rockers and rods absent a compelling reason to do so....
Until the day that you change your oil and don't realize that the gubment has mandated the removal of even more zinc (to protect the endangered widebilled thistle thrush of course) which results in your flat tappet getting real flat.

Steve
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