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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 03-28-2010, 06:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by undy View Post
One word... h-e-a-v-y, more so than an OEM iron block. Don't compromise now Kev, when the light at the end of the tunnel is now visible. Get a line of credit that mama doesn't know about,,
At least making it a 527 would save a little weight.
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Old 03-28-2010, 06:48 AM
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When we were deciding which way to go on my new project, my builder talked with quite a few builders that had issues with the cam journals not running parallel with the crank. I'm not sure if its true or not, just reporting what I heard. I went with Pond Aluminum and I am very happy.
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Old 03-28-2010, 09:46 AM
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That's funny undy.
I guess I did not know there was a weight difference. How much more ?
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Old 03-28-2010, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by FUNFER2 View Post
That's funny undy.
I guess I did not know there was a weight difference. How much more ?
Sorry Kev, can't help myself sometimes...

I believe there was a thread or two over on fordfe that said somewhere around 30lbs +/- heavier than an OEM iron. But it's a heck of a lot stronger too
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Old 03-28-2010, 10:45 AM
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yeah,...yeah,.... Dave lol

Like I just said in my pm to you. I wish I could edit my post heading from iron to aluminum. From the start of this magazine build is supposed to be about the 60's side oiler as a comparison to todays modern 2010 aluminum side oiler.

I know I will not be happy with a iron block, especially with all the time & work I've put in. Now is not the time to "settle"...... for a iron motor.

Do you agree ?

(Maybe I should delete this post and start a new one with aluminum in the heading.
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Last edited by FUNFER2; 03-28-2010 at 11:18 AM..
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Old 03-28-2010, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC View Post
At least making it a 527 would save a little weight.
These huge-bore variations make me think of the old crack about motorcycle engines: "Bore it out one more time and you'll have a stack of washers!"
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Old 03-28-2010, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Gunner View Post
These huge-bore variations make me think of the old crack about motorcycle engines: "Bore it out one more time and you'll have a stack of washers!"
lol

What bore size would turn your crank, with your next engine,...482 ?
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Old 03-28-2010, 11:29 AM
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First, I would check with the engine builders on this site about boring the Genesis block to 527. I haven't heard of a member here boring that big with a Genesis or Pond block. The only block that I've heard going that big is the big bore Shelby block.

Second, the Pond aluminum block will save you about 125 lbs over an OEM FE. The Shelby block will save you about 100 lbs over an OEM FE block. I believe I'm reasonably close on those figures, but double check me.

Third, while Barry R loves to use the Genesis block, from what I've read, many others have run into problems with them. On the other hand, "xl8or", Scott, used the Genesis block and seemed to have no problems at all.

Fourth, the Genesis block is about $1,000 less than the Pond block and about $1,600 less than the CSX block. So, upgrading to aluminum is not cheap, but then removing 100-125 +/- pounds and increasing the resale value of the car are two advantages of the aluminum block.

Fifth, an aluminum block makes it easier to spot leaks.
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Old 03-28-2010, 11:40 AM
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There is no need to bore a new block to the maximum. More than 4.31 canīt be done with an genesis or pond aluminum block I think.

With an aluminum block > go with 482 CUI (or 468 CUI if you prefer the shorter 4.125 stroke like me).

With an iron block > same as aluminum or 496 CUI (4.31 bore / 4.25 stroke).

Greetings from germany, Stefan

Last edited by silverline; 03-28-2010 at 01:32 PM..
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Old 03-28-2010, 12:11 PM
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I think,.... the 527 is the maximum they can be bored to I know the Shelby has much more meat but, the price is incredible. Also, like with any engine, the more troubles you can encounter with very large bores.

The walls are much thinner.
If you hurt a cylinder, the block is done.
If a rebuild is needed, sleeves are needed.
Increased heat.
Of course, it's more expensive.
ect....

I guess I'll have to sell the shirt off my back, to pay for a Pond or Shelby aluminum block.

I do have many sponsors for this magazine build but, the block is hard to swallow and takes up a lot of my budget.


Anyway, since I'm back from the dark side, with the ALUMINUM block. Talk to me about the parts used and the specifications or your motor.

Is there anything you would change ?

Why do you like yours so much ?
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Old 03-28-2010, 01:18 PM
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Kevin,
Just in case you haven't been told, you can NOT bore the Genesis aluminum block anywhere near as much as you can their cast iron block. It's much more limited in bore capacity.
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Old 03-28-2010, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FUNFER2
Anyway, since I'm back from the dark side, with the ALUMINUM block. Talk to me about the parts used and the specifications or your motor.

Is there anything you would change ?

Why do you like yours so much ?
My Keith Craft 468FE is right now in progress:

Pond iron block w/ 4.25 bore
KCR 4340 forged crank w/ 4.125 stroke
KCR 4340 H-Beam rods w/ ARP2000 upgrade
Ebrock Stage-2 heads
Ebrock performer RPM intake
Comp cams solid flat tappet cam
Erson roller rockers
QFT 750 cfm mech. sec. carb without choke
Billet double roller timing set
Cometic gaskets

That 14 CUI more with 4.25 stroke would not make a big difference in HP/TQ, enough is enough. And I like the better rod/stroke ratio @ 4.125 stroke and lower piston speed. The ARP2000 upgrade rather isnīt necessary, but safe is safe and the cost not much more.
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Old 03-28-2010, 01:36 PM
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I am building the same thing. My builder didn't want to build a square moter so we are using the 4.125 crank. The angles are better and if anything, it should ramp up a little faster.
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