rocker arm setups

[RICK LAKE]

RodKnock Nobody has said that there is a different oil system to the rockers with Jesel or T&D. I have a setup of EDEL heads and T&D setup. The oiling goes through the pushrods. You will need new pushrods, lifters and maybe a camshaft. You may want to look at the new vary size pushrods that are 5/16" ends and 3/8- 7/16" in the middle. They are stiffer and have less flex when running. Alot depends on camshaft lift, design and valve spring rates.
IMO if you are running a HVHP oil pump with an 80# and have 30-40 psi at idle, H&S will work fine if the clearance between shaft and rocker body is tight. If it is loose, it will work ok at high oil pressures with the motor runningat 2,000 rpms. If you are going to idle it and the pressures down down to the 20's, IMO this is not enough to flood the rockers and cause a wearing condition, Not enough oil to the Erson setup will cause damage too. Blueing of the roller tip and bearings. I know of 2 erson failures. Both from oiling. Limiters too small for the heads. Under .060" with high lift camshafts and idling. The other thing is the machine work for the plates with T&D. You need a good machinist to make sure that the surfaces are flat and level. Rick L.

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

RodKnock Nobody has said that there is a different oil system to the rockers with Jesel or T&D. I have a setup of EDEL heads and T&D setup. The oiling goes through the pushrods. You will need new pushrods, lifters and maybe a camshaft. Rick L.

Thank you for the info Rick. When Barry R said the Ersons were being discontinued I was contemplating buying an extra set to put on the shelf as a "just in case." Especially, since they're bolt-on. I know the T&D's are better and may upgrade to them in the future, but now I know that I may need more than just new pushrods. I wasn't planning on a new cam and lifters. Definitely more food for thought.

[patrickt]

Rod, you don't need to buy anything. Your Ersons aren't going to fail unless the builder restricted them up top to a number way below .060 and you run them hard, hard, hard... neither of which is going to happen. Save your money -- if you buy a replacement set of Ersons they're just going to sit on the shelf in your basement.

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Rod, you don't need to buy anything. Your Ersons aren't going to fail unless the builder restricted them up top to a number way below .060 and you run them hard, hard, hard... neither of which is going to happen. Save your money -- if you buy a replacement set of Ersons they're just going to sit on the shelf in your basement.

Yes, I understand. But with my luck, I'll need a set someday and everyone will be fresh out of every alternative. When my engine was built about 2 years ago. I had to wait several weeks while the Ersons were on back order. So they haven't been so plentiful.

My Cammer is going to require the T&D's (although different) anyway.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by RodKnock

When my engine was built about 2 years ago

If your engine is now two years old, your money is better spent changing out your coolant. You probably have the tried and true classic "green coolant" in there and, after two years, the corrosion inhibitors that are protecting all that beautiful aluminum have just about given out. Hey, that gives me a great idea for a separate thread challenging the math skills of that old curmudgeon ERAChas on how to figure out an EZ coolant change out procedure for you. I'll post that now, in fact.

EDIT -- and here that thread is: ERAChas - A Simple Coolant Math Problem

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by patrickt

...old curmudgeon ERAChas on how...

Couldn't you write YOUNG curmudgeon???

[RICK LAKE]

Era Chas I think that Pat needs to recheck the bottles. Green coolant is good for 36 months or 50k miles. The orange coolant is good for 5 years or now 120,000 miles. A test strip will tell you if it is time. Also how hot and hard the motor is run. Me I run the green coolant 5 years and add the booster at 3 years. With new motor and bigger radiator have gone to orange coolant because of the added sealing of the mixture with so much silicone. Going on 4 years and still good for -30f. This is for storage and around the area with short hops. At the track I use water wetter and distilled water. Tracks can fine you and remove you from them if a large spill happens with antifreeze. Rick L.