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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2010, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by RodKnock View Post
The problem is specious.
True, but only because Chas will not be able to figure it out.
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2010, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by patrickt View Post
True, but only because Chas will not be able to figure it out.
Nooooooo...because Chas will not be stupid enough to dignify child games with a reply as poor Ken realized he had done.

Pat-did you get bounced off the Harry Potter Forum? Ran out of broken parts to flood us with macro digital full-color close ups? Slow night over on FE?

Well Rod, our precocious child is at it again. This is why he has 11,059 posts (ELEVEN THOUSAND FIFTY-NINE). I wish Keith, Barry, George, Clayton, Acton, Tom, Kincade and Mike had 11,000-(they don't have that many combined). We would all learn far more about our cars and motors and not Readers Digest popcorn games.

What's next to entertain we children Mr. Wizard-find the rabbit in the maze pictures?

A valuable help to any hands-on guys is this tip: block drains. Put brass petcocks in place of the block drain plugs, attach tubing to reach into your drain pan. When changing, drain from the lower rad hose, and both petcocks. You get a complete purge that way and refill through the temp sensor boss on the intake.

Now that's something people can use.
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2010, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by ERA Chas View Post
Nooooooo...because Chas will not be stupid enough to dignify child games with a reply as poor Ken realized he had done.
Actually he did a very nice job. When I ran the numbers, 8 changes would get you an 89.99% coolant change... but, that ain't 90%, so he is technically correct.

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Originally Posted by ERA Chas View Post
Put brass petcocks in place of the block drain plugs, attach tubing to reach into your drain pan. When changing, drain from the lower rad hose, and both petcocks. You get a complete purge that way and refill through the temp sensor boss on the intake.
Uhhh, I would rather just change a gallon out after eight drives.


Last edited by patrickt; 11-02-2016 at 12:56 PM..
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Old 07-02-2010, 07:19 PM
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Don't make me break out the differential calculus on you Patrick.
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Old 07-02-2010, 07:23 PM
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It's really an interesting question. When you open the petcock on, say, an ERA, it is on the lower driver's side of the radiator. The upper radiator hose goes to the top driver's side of the radiator, lower radiator to the bottom passenger side. If there are three or four holes drilled in the thermostat, will the fluid coming out the petcock be equal amounts from both the radiator and the block?
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Old 07-02-2010, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by patrickt View Post
Uhhh, I would rather just change a gallon out after eight drives.
For a guy that loves to brag about his he-man solid lifter noise, you're some pu$$y when it comes to doing actual WORK.

Surprised a cam that small can actually make noise. Get a free matching dress with that cam?
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Old 07-02-2010, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by ERA Chas View Post
Surprised a cam that small can actually make noise. Get a free matching dress with that cam?
No, but I got a POS dampNer.

Blykins, will the coolant level in the block and the coolant level in the radiator decline at an equal rate when the petcock is opened? I never took a fluid dynamics class....
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Old 07-02-2010, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERA Chas View Post
Surprised a cam that small can actually make noise. Get a free matching dress with that cam?
Now that's funny.

But it's the "K" cam. Or was it the "R" cam? "B" cam? Eh doesn't matter.

To be honest with you, if I were doing it, then I would have to "wear the dress" and take 8 drives.

Last edited by RodKnock; 07-02-2010 at 08:06 PM..
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Old 07-02-2010, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RodKnock View Post
Now that's funny.

But it's the "K" cam. Or was it the "R" cam? "B" cam? Eh doesn't matter.

To be honest with you, if I were doing it, then I would have to wear the dress and take 8 drives.
It's the "K" cam, thank you very much. DCDoug has the "B" cam.
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