Tired and frustrated with the glycol in oil leak..

[Ronbo]

Originally Posted by undy

I've stayed away from the waterless coolant (Evans etc) as it doesn't have near the heat rejection capability of water/glycol. I don't feel I have enough redundancy in my cooling system to give up any capacity. I did look into it a year or so ago.


The saga continues...

I hope you've found it...

I wouldn't dismiss the waterless coolant so quickly...

The waterless coolant actually allows you to run much higher engine temps with no damage since there's no pressure (your cooling capacity has actually increased, because your engine can run at 300+ deg now). Also detonation is all but eliminated in the cumbustion chamber since the steam pockets can't form in the water jacket (basically acting like an insulator, creating a "hot spot"). No more running on the rich side to keep detonation down. Aluminum heads help with this but don't eliminate it.

Not to mention no water, no eating the aluminum up.

There's a reason this stuff exists, water wasn't up to the job. You have to look beyond 10deg hotter temps to what's really wrecking your motor.

Water (like oxygen) is simply doing what it's supposed to do, erode and corrode stuff into simpler compounds.

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by Ronbo

...because your engine can run at 300+ deg now).

Great but your oil, valve springs and hoses can't. Run at regular temps of 240 or more and eventually your bores will marry the rings. Do you run Evans in your KMP? What temps do you get in oil and water in FL?

Fresh, clean coolant or water, changed regularly, is far more cost effective and far less damaging then you state. The stuff exists so its makers can hugely profit from markets where it's not needed.

[Ronbo]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

Great but your oil, valve springs and hoses can't. Run at regular temps of 240 or more and eventually your bores will marry the rings. Do you run Evans in your KMP? What temps do you get in oil and water in FL?

Fresh, clean coolant or water, changed regularly, is far more cost effective and far less damaging then you state. The stuff exists so its makers can hugely profit from markets where it's not needed.

I run it in my street vehicle, plan to run it in the Kirkham as well.

The problems you mention were in what? Engines running water because your combustion chamber temps were too high from the steam pockets. Your combustion chamber temps will decrease with the waterless (and remain more stable to boot).

As far as damage, thread after thread of anodes, corroded radiators, coolant leaks, ate up aluminum, yada, yada. (leaks, leaks, leaks)

As far as internet searches of problems with Evens? Found lots of boil-over conditions solved and one guy that didn't know if he should top off his leaking coolant system with water.

Sorry, not seeing the problem here. Other than convincing yourself it won't work because the herd runs water. (I saw one reply here from someone actually using it that said it helped, everyone else seems convinced it won't based on their experience not using it)

[ERA Chas]

See comments in bold below:

Originally Posted by Ronbo

I run it in my street vehicle, plan to run it in the Kirkham as well. So you're encouraging a guy to use something in a Cobra that you haven't used in a Cobra? Nice. Your street vehicle and a Cobra are worlds apart from a heat production/retention standpoint.

The problems you mention were in what? Engines running water because your combustion chamber temps were too high from the steam pockets. Your combustion chamber temps will decrease with the waterless (and remain more stable to boot). I never had ANY problems with chambers /steam or ANY coolant-related issues in 15 years with the same block and system in a Cobra. Iron block, aluminum heads, aluminum rad. Using green/distilled water mix changed biennially. Where do you get this stuff?

As far as damage, thread after thread of anodes, corroded radiators, coolant leaks, ate up aluminum, yada, yada. (leaks, leaks, leaks) If you could produce these reams of evidence, they will be found to be caused by negligent cooling maintenance, not using the block drains and or aged equipment.

As far as internet searches of problems with Evens? Found lots of boil-over conditions solved and one guy that didn't know if he should top off his leaking coolant system with water.

Sorry, not seeing the problem here. Other than convincing yourself it won't work because the herd runs water. (I saw one reply here from someone actually using it that said it helped, everyone else seems convinced it won't based on their experience not using it) Missed my point entirely while doing your Evans commercial. I've used the water method exclusively because I learned the proper way to install and care for it which eliminates ANY engine/radiator corrosion issues or the mysterious combustion chamber volcanoes you imagine. No anodes or yada-yadas. Thus, no reason to look for a"BETTER WAY"-especially a more costly better way.

But the major point is that your response does nothing to help Undy solve his question. He doesn't NEED a better coolant. Whether using water, Evans or Kool-Aid---what is causing coolant to find oil and gel in his valve covers???

[Ronbo]

The Evens commercial is over, you can relax now.

If you bothered to read through the entire thread you'd find that I may have been the only one to correctly identify Undy's problem. (so maybe I'm not quite the dumbazz you think I am)

But hey, no one could possibly teach you something when you already know what's really happening.

If you'd bother to actually read about the history of this product you'd see that GM invested heavily into it's development - probably because it was totally unnecessary. No, it's probably best to broad-brush people's problems with water as a result of poor maintenance.

I really don't care if you choose not to run it, is it OK with you if someone else does?

[Z-linkCobra]

Originally Posted by Ronbo

The Evens commercial is over, you can relax now.

If you bothered to read through the entire thread you'd find that I may have been the only one to correctly identify Undy's problem.

Still waiting for you to tell us what the problem was.

Or are you too busy patting yourself on the back?

[Ronbo]

Originally Posted by Z-linkCobra

Still waiting for you to tell us what the problem was.

Or are you too busy patting yourself on the back?

The back coolant ports (read the thread).

Don't need to pat myself on the back, cash will do nicely.

Oh, by the way, bite me!

I guess no one forgot to take their azzhole pill today...

GM's research was specifically to address coolant issues with high horsepower engines being developed for the Corvette. (not that high horsepower engines have anything to do with Cobra's) Since emissions dictate not running rich (which would lower detonation problems) they addressed the "real" problem: the steam pockets that develop in any engine's coolant passenges above the cumbustion chamber. (turns out steam is a lousy conductor of heat, go figure) The problems you stated ie: valve spring fatigue and cylinder bore wear are a direct result of combustion chamber temps, not block temp.

There is a huge difference in your cumbustion chamber temp and your coolant temp. Why do you think your recovery tank level varies so much between hot and cold (the liquid coolant only expands slightly) that's how much steam is in your cylinder heads and upper block.