Brad Penn Oil and the ZDDP Debate

[patrickt]

Yes, I've been a proponent of Brad Penn oil for some time now (being a solid flat tappet type of guy that I am). This letter went out in early June of this year, but apparently it took a while before it made it to me. If you give a shi* about the ZDDP debate, this should put your mind at ease.

[FWB]

i also have used this refinery's oil since 1978 starting with the kendall brand marketed as GT-1 oil, then the kendall name was sold to conoco-phillips. the GT-1 formula did not go with the kendall name.
this formula is now Brad Penn high performance oil. i use the 20w-50 exclusively in my 427 and also sell the oil thru my company http://www.origincorp.net/

we have 20w-50 in stock at 48.00 a case plus the ride, we are listed on the Brad Penn site as a PA dealer of their products.

regards, fred

[madmaxx]

Any disadvantages to bradd penn oil. Seams like a win win, price is about $5.25 per quart, has the zinc and phosphourous additives. Why isn't everyone using it?

[FWB]

i think the lack of national advertising is the main reason. there is a void in advertising funds provided to the dealers also. i have to foot the bill myself for any ads i run on behalf of my company. compared to the other oils it really is good oil, and priced right too. the gibbs racing oil is very pricey and i can't imaging a advantage over the brad penn.

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by FWB

i think the lack of national advertising is the main reason. there is a void in advertising funds provided to the dealers also. i have to foot the bill myself for any ads i run on behalf of my company. compared to the other oils it really is good oil, and priced right too. the gibbs racing oil is very pricey and i can't imaging a advantage over the brad penn.

When will your site have the shopping cart set up?

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by dcdoug

When will your site have the shopping cart set up?

... and when you do make sure you can undercut these guys: http://theoilwarehouse.com/

[scootter]

I called a local dealer here. It runs $70 per case!! I can almost buy it from the oil warehouse with $27 for shipping and be the same. Anyone here in the SF bay area get it cheaper somewhere?? Hell, I pay more then $40 per case for the Valvoline 20W50. I have done the ZDDP additive, but all that stuff can be a pain. Would rather buy 1 oil, then having to put additives!!
Scott

[FWB]

Originally Posted by patrickt

... and when you do make sure you can undercut these guys: http://theoilwarehouse.com/

i have discussed these guys prices with the refinery. they do not deal with them, so where they are getting the oil? who knows. there was just a price increase on oil, so maybe you will see these guys prices rise after their stock is depleted.
in the meantime, anyone east coast will save over the oil wharehouse in the shipping. they ship from arizona. so compare to summit or the other dealers on the east coast and i am competitive. as my volume increases so woll my buying power. web site will be up and active in a couple weeks. can still contact me here... http://www.origincorp.net/
just can't process credit cards till web site is up. checks or money orders are ok. been in business for many years so i don't thnk i would want to ruin my business reputation over not delivering a case of oil.

Fred

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by madmaxx

Why isn't everyone using it?

There are many good engine oils on the market with high ZDDP levels including oils from Redline and Joe Gibbs Racing. Brad Penn is one of many good oils to run.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by madmaxx

Why isn't everyone using it?

The oil companies don't make it easy to figure out what's in their oils. The "information" on the internet is completely wrong as often as it is right. People rely on an oil that they grew up with that now is owned by a different refinery, made up of completely different additives, and bears no resemblance to what it was even just a few years ago. Add to that the fact that a lot of people don't put a lot of effort in to thinking. The final wild card is that some of the testing laboratories give varying results on the identical sample of oil. Fortunately, unless you have a solid flat tappet cam, the need for ZDDP is really not that great.

EDIT -- BUT, unless I had a catalytic converter on my car, I would rather have an abundance of ZDDP even with a mild hydraulic cam and a 250 horsepower build.

[FUNFER2]

I had a 428 FE with a solid flat tappet. With my 527 side oiler and not needing,.... the added ZDDP because of my mechanical roller, is his oil and additives, any better than most other company's ?

I believe,... this quote from his website, is the first time I've seen any comments about using the ZDDP oil additive for roller cams.

"In addition to our unique base oil cut, increased concentration of “zinc” (zinc dialkyldithiophosphate a.k.a. ZDDP) provides outstanding anti-wear/anti-scuffing protection for engines employing either ‘flat tappet’ or roller cams. BRAD PENN® Penn Grade 1® High Performance Oils have been evaluated by a number of premiere camshaft manufacturers with tremendous success. Many are now recommending our Penn Grade 1® High Performance Oils to provide outstanding protection for their ‘flat tappet’ or roller cams".

[patrickt]

I didn't think ZDDP was that big of a deal with a roller, but who knows. What might be important though for Cobras that sit a while in between starts is the "cling" factor.

[CobraEd]

Just buy your mostest favorite motor oil, and then add this:

http://www.eastwood.com/zddp-plus-oi...e-4-fl-oz.html

. . . . and you will have the best of all worlds.


.

[madmaxx]

I feel with hydraulic roller and "aggressive" cams as compared to street, not racing engines the zinc and phosphorous play a key roll. One of the advantages to roller cams is aggresive cam profiles, ie, steep ramps, high lift,etc. This requires "high" valve spring pressures when compared to street, ie, 350lb -450lb open as compared to street 275 lb open, not to mention overhead cams are much easier on the camshaft itself. If you have a pushrod v-8 with anything over 400 hp, and turning anything over 5300 rpm, your camshaft, rocker arms, pushrods, roller bearing in your lifters would really appreciate the zinc and phosphoous.

Needless to say the next question is what weight, I like that Brad Penn offers 15W40, a nice medium between 10W30 and 20W50 (much much to think in 99% of applications) If you live in the rust belt use 10W30, if you live south of the rust belt 15W40.

Additivies are a pain in the a$$$$$ and run $10.00 for 5 quarts. By the time you are done you are at the same price as Brad Penn etc.

[patrickt]

If the reader takes anything away from this thread, it is the fact that the API Starburst certification should be equated to the "Kiss of Death" for our older style engines. Instead of a goddam starburst they should be putting a Mr. Yuck sticker on the front. For the gory details, you can read their licensing terms released last month: http://www.api.org/certifications/en...l1complete.pdf

[wfbronson]

I recommend the original furmula Kendal Racing Oil that is available only from specialty racing suppliers. It is not available on the shelf of your typical retail auto parts store.

Recently had an amazing experience to prove the value of this stuff. Five years ago I had put this oil in my rebuilt side oiler and pumped the oil through the engine by turning the oil pump drive with an electric drill. This was done with the anticipation that I would not be able to use the motor for a few years, so I sealed it in a crate and stored it in my garage.

Last month I decided to uncrate it, change the oil and circulate it before going any further. I bought some oil from my local auto supplier and proceded to remove the valve covers and inspect the condition of things. When I saw the incredible clean condition and this Kendal oil still sticking to all the parts, I kept the same oil in the motor and just changed the filter and pumped the oil through again. I refused to put any of this new low quality oil in my side oiler until I could find the original stuff.

[FWB]

here is the history on kendall\brad penn.

the oil you stored your motor with is not the kendall you are buying.

see link

http://www.oil150.com/essays/2009/02...ll-refining-co

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by wfbronson

Five years ago I had put this oil in my rebuilt side oiler and...

Fascinating story WF but I hope you backed-off the rocker shafts five years ago or throw out those valve springs now.

Also check the condition of the rings against the walls before start-up.

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by wfbronson

I recommend the original furmula Kendal Racing Oil that is available only from specialty racing suppliers. It is not available on the shelf of your typical retail auto parts store.

Recently had an amazing experience to prove the value of this stuff. Five years ago I had put this oil in my rebuilt side oiler and pumped the oil through the engine by turning the oil pump drive with an electric drill. This was done with the anticipation that I would not be able to use the motor for a few years, so I sealed it in a crate and stored it in my garage.

Last month I decided to uncrate it, change the oil and circulate it before going any further. I bought some oil from my local auto supplier and proceded to remove the valve covers and inspect the condition of things. When I saw the incredible clean condition and this Kendal oil still sticking to all the parts, I kept the same oil in the motor and just changed the filter and pumped the oil through again. I refused to put any of this new low quality oil in my side oiler until I could find the original stuff.

Why are you repeating this post #34 and not replying to my post #39? And which is it-3 years ago or 5 years ago?

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

Why are you repeating this post #34 and not replying to my post #39? And which is it-3 years ago or 5 years ago?

Because it was an "amazing experience" it bears repeating.