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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2011, 12:49 AM
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Default Flywheel choice

I have a 482 Alluminum FE and I am considering a RAM alluminum flywheel. Does anyone have any opinions of the RAM alluminum flywheel?
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Old 05-24-2011, 04:09 AM
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RAM makes great stuff. I would recommend their products in a heartbeat.

For an aluminum flywheel, as long as you have an 11" Long pressure plate pattern, their FE flywheel is a great choice. For a little less money, the Fidanza is also a very nice aluminum flywheel and has multiple pressure plate patterns.

The RAM flywheel weighs 20 lbs. The Fidanza weighs 14.
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Old 05-24-2011, 04:27 AM
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Default What are you doing with the car?

Rottie What happened to the old flywheel? How much power is the 482 output? If you are in the 600/600 club a street twin might be the better answer for your car. Hold all the power with a light pedal.
As long the the flywheel is stamp SFI the only other option is heavy. Was the rotating assembly balanced as a whole or as parts? This means just the crank with bob weight? Or was it done with the dampener, spacer for crank,crank shaft, bob weights and flywheel? This could make a balance different to the motor if this was done.
I have run Schaffer, Zoom, Hayes, Mcleod, and aftermarket Summits that are SFI. NO failures with any of them. I do limit my rpms to a 6,200 max on all motors. If you are replacing your flywheel you might want to look at a better clutch setup with more holding power but without a harder pedal.
I am going to a twim disc setup on my 498 motor. My 482 motor does slip the 11" in the car now. The pressure plate is only 2400 pounds. Rick L. Ps I autocross and roadrace the car. Twin setup are on alot of new cars starting with GTO, Camero, Vette,and I think the new mustang. Pss Is your flywheel rebuildable?? Can the steel insert be replaced only? this should be cheaper than to replace and worry about a balance problem?

Last edited by RICK LAKE; 05-24-2011 at 04:29 AM.. Reason: sleeping
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Old 10-19-2011, 02:54 PM
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Im also researching FE Flywheels. Does the Fidanza #186541 have a good reputation? The reason Im asking is that its not SFI approved.
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Old 10-19-2011, 03:13 PM
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Im also researching FE Flywheels. Does the Fidanza #186541 have a good reputation? The reason Im asking is that its not SFI approved.
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Old 10-19-2011, 03:29 PM
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Fidanza makes a great FE flywheel....and yes it is SFI approved.
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Old 10-19-2011, 03:49 PM
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I have the RAM aluminum flywheel and it is a quality product!


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Old 10-19-2011, 03:51 PM
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Mcleod flywheel is also a good choice, im sure any top brand would be a good choice.
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Old 10-19-2011, 04:11 PM
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Not nit pickin, I got that information off of Summit's website:
Brand Fidanza
Manufacturer's Part Number 186541
Part Type Flywheels
Product Line Fidanza Billet Aluminum Flywheels
Summit Racing Part Number FIZ-186541

Ring Gear Tooth Quantity 184-tooth
Flywheel Material Billet aluminum
Engine Balance Internal/External
Weight 14.000 lbs.
Replaceable Friction Surface Yes
Safety Rating Not SFI-approved
Quantity Sold individually.
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is a just God that presides over the destinies of nations. The battle sir, is not to the strong alone. Is life so dear or peace so sweet as to be purchased at the price of chains and slavery? Forbid it almighty God. I know not what course others may take, but as for me, give me liberty, or give me death."' Patrick Henry.
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Old 10-19-2011, 04:13 PM
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Yeah, but Google it and see if they are SFI rated....Summit has mistakes from time to time.

As far as flywheel choice, McLeod is the same as everybody else. There are several manufacturers who get their flywheels from the same source. The only thing that you need to look for is to see if it has the correct pressure plate pattern on it. Other than that, I wouldn't pay too much for one. McLeod's flywheel is about $500 vs the $375 for the Fidanza.
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Old 10-19-2011, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blykins View Post
Yeah, but Google it and see if they are SFI rated....Summit has mistakes from time to time.
Correct that, Summit has many mistakes.
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Old 10-19-2011, 05:22 PM
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RAM is absolutely SFI rated.

They have been making flywheels for decades.


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Old 10-19-2011, 05:51 PM
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How 'bout this beautiful Centerforce flywheel of mine that costs twice as much as the others but is really no better?


Last edited by patrickt; 11-02-2016 at 01:09 PM..
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Old 10-19-2011, 06:25 PM
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Default Be Prepared

If you plan to do much street driving, the aluminum wheel doesn't carry a lot of inertia and you'll be shifting a lot more to cut down the "jerkiness" as you coast down in speed.

Not that it is wrong, it just takes getting used to. The heavier steel wheels make for a little smoother street use.

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Old 10-20-2011, 12:38 PM
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[quote=patrickt;1157413]How 'bout this beautiful Centerforce flywheel of mine that costs twice as much as the others but is really no better?

Since you're not a big fan of Centerforce, what would you use to replace the clutch you have now?
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Old 10-20-2011, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt View Post
How 'bout this beautiful Centerfarce flywheel of mine that costs twice as much as the others but is really no better?

Pat, corrected your misspelling...

Sorry, I don't know anyone (excluding you) that knows anything about cars that uses Centerfarce.
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Old 10-25-2011, 03:32 PM
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I was going to mention what would be better for the street the aluminum or steel inertia wise. One thing I was wondering should a guy have his driveshaft checked for balance since he should have the engine rotating assembly balanced? Bob.
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Old 10-26-2011, 10:45 AM
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Few thoughts/comments

Yes driveshaft turns at engine speed so should be balanced, u-joints in proper phase and straight--also with such a short shaft , u-joint angle is critical

We have a customer with original Shelby gt500 mustang that we built a stroked center oiler for--he used a centerforce(I am a long time friend/fan of Bill Hays) aluminum flywheel and is on his third one in a little over a year---starter ring gears aren't shrink fitted to the wheel but are fastened with 3 tabs around the outside--now they have gone to 6 tabs--these keep coming loose----

The sprung hub clutch discs have various numbers of hub springs and some are dampened with rubber slug inside the spring--this will kill off the chattering on engagement

Lots of chatter comes from hanging the trans by the input shaft during install bending the disc so that it doesn't made full disc contact upon engagement
same deal on having difficulty engaging gear at a standstill---clutch won't fully didengage because its bent

From my days of top fuel/funny car and pro stock racing I have a container (tank/artillery shell) full of matched springs grouped by pressure, adjustable stands, and a tool box full of weights, arms, etc---I'll try to get a pic of some of the stuff, altho it doesn't apply to this, it will maybe open some eyes as to what these things do to the clutch operation
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