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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 05-23-2011, 11:49 PM
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Default Flywheel choice

I have a 482 Alluminum FE and I am considering a RAM alluminum flywheel. Does anyone have any opinions of the RAM alluminum flywheel?
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Old 05-24-2011, 03:09 AM
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RAM makes great stuff. I would recommend their products in a heartbeat.

For an aluminum flywheel, as long as you have an 11" Long pressure plate pattern, their FE flywheel is a great choice. For a little less money, the Fidanza is also a very nice aluminum flywheel and has multiple pressure plate patterns.

The RAM flywheel weighs 20 lbs. The Fidanza weighs 14.
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Old 05-24-2011, 03:27 AM
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Default What are you doing with the car?

Rottie What happened to the old flywheel? How much power is the 482 output? If you are in the 600/600 club a street twin might be the better answer for your car. Hold all the power with a light pedal.
As long the the flywheel is stamp SFI the only other option is heavy. Was the rotating assembly balanced as a whole or as parts? This means just the crank with bob weight? Or was it done with the dampener, spacer for crank,crank shaft, bob weights and flywheel? This could make a balance different to the motor if this was done.
I have run Schaffer, Zoom, Hayes, Mcleod, and aftermarket Summits that are SFI. NO failures with any of them. I do limit my rpms to a 6,200 max on all motors. If you are replacing your flywheel you might want to look at a better clutch setup with more holding power but without a harder pedal.
I am going to a twim disc setup on my 498 motor. My 482 motor does slip the 11" in the car now. The pressure plate is only 2400 pounds. Rick L. Ps I autocross and roadrace the car. Twin setup are on alot of new cars starting with GTO, Camero, Vette,and I think the new mustang. Pss Is your flywheel rebuildable?? Can the steel insert be replaced only? this should be cheaper than to replace and worry about a balance problem?

Last edited by RICK LAKE; 05-24-2011 at 03:29 AM.. Reason: sleeping
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Old 10-19-2011, 01:54 PM
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Im also researching FE Flywheels. Does the Fidanza #186541 have a good reputation? The reason Im asking is that its not SFI approved.
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Old 10-19-2011, 02:13 PM
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Im also researching FE Flywheels. Does the Fidanza #186541 have a good reputation? The reason Im asking is that its not SFI approved.
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Old 10-19-2011, 02:29 PM
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Fidanza makes a great FE flywheel....and yes it is SFI approved.
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Old 10-19-2011, 02:49 PM
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I have the RAM aluminum flywheel and it is a quality product!


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Old 10-19-2011, 02:51 PM
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Mcleod flywheel is also a good choice, im sure any top brand would be a good choice.
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Old 10-19-2011, 03:11 PM
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Not nit pickin, I got that information off of Summit's website:
Brand Fidanza
Manufacturer's Part Number 186541
Part Type Flywheels
Product Line Fidanza Billet Aluminum Flywheels
Summit Racing Part Number FIZ-186541

Ring Gear Tooth Quantity 184-tooth
Flywheel Material Billet aluminum
Engine Balance Internal/External
Weight 14.000 lbs.
Replaceable Friction Surface Yes
Safety Rating Not SFI-approved
Quantity Sold individually.
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Old 10-19-2011, 03:13 PM
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Yeah, but Google it and see if they are SFI rated....Summit has mistakes from time to time.

As far as flywheel choice, McLeod is the same as everybody else. There are several manufacturers who get their flywheels from the same source. The only thing that you need to look for is to see if it has the correct pressure plate pattern on it. Other than that, I wouldn't pay too much for one. McLeod's flywheel is about $500 vs the $375 for the Fidanza.
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Old 10-19-2011, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blykins View Post
Yeah, but Google it and see if they are SFI rated....Summit has mistakes from time to time.
Correct that, Summit has many mistakes.
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Old 10-19-2011, 04:22 PM
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RAM is absolutely SFI rated.

They have been making flywheels for decades.


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Old 10-19-2011, 04:51 PM
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How 'bout this beautiful Centerforce flywheel of mine that costs twice as much as the others but is really no better?


Last edited by patrickt; 11-02-2016 at 12:09 PM..
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Old 10-19-2011, 05:25 PM
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Default Be Prepared

If you plan to do much street driving, the aluminum wheel doesn't carry a lot of inertia and you'll be shifting a lot more to cut down the "jerkiness" as you coast down in speed.

Not that it is wrong, it just takes getting used to. The heavier steel wheels make for a little smoother street use.

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Old 10-20-2011, 11:38 AM
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[quote=patrickt;1157413]How 'bout this beautiful Centerforce flywheel of mine that costs twice as much as the others but is really no better?

Since you're not a big fan of Centerforce, what would you use to replace the clutch you have now?
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Old 10-20-2011, 11:40 AM
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RAM 11" Long, or McLeod 11" Long. Either one works great and many discs are available to range from 350hp to 650hp.
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Old 10-20-2011, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GT350Mike View Post
Since you're not a big fan of Centerforce, what would you use to replace the clutch you have now?
The flywheel is, frankly, a beauty. It just cost twice as much as it should have. You can get one just as good for about half the price. The Centerforce "dual friction" clutch does just fine for me, and, it falls in to the category of "better than stock." But remember, my FE, with the pipes and waterpump on it, is under 500 horsepower. So, around these parts, that makes me the "weak sister." It holds quite well, does not chatter on the street, and my Yokohamas break loose well before any real strain gets put on it. I'm sure it's overpriced for what I got. Now, when it's time to replace it all, I will simply call Brent up and say send me a clutch disk, pressure plate, and throwout bearing for my Centerforce flywheel and Tremec TKO that can hold my "less than 500 HP" mill and that won't chatter me up a storm on the street. Whatever he sells me, I bet it will total less than $350.
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Old 10-20-2011, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt View Post
How 'bout this beautiful Centerfarce flywheel of mine that costs twice as much as the others but is really no better?

Pat, corrected your misspelling...

Sorry, I don't know anyone (excluding you) that knows anything about cars that uses Centerfarce.
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Old 10-20-2011, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by undy View Post
Pat, corrected your misspelling...
Well that was kinda funny. But let's think it through. Seriously, why would you ever need a clutch that had holding power that was significantly greater than the coefficient of adhesion of your tires at their greatest point/condition? (meaning sticky asphalt, pressure at the point you get the most stickiness, etc.) Is there a reason, if greater holding power just tends to create more chatter on the street?

Last edited by patrickt; 10-20-2011 at 03:09 PM.. Reason: added the word "significantly"
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Old 10-20-2011, 03:52 PM
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Default Hi Pat

patrickt Pat Have thought about your question, I want a clutch that doesn't slip when driving or racing. These cars have a small thing on the floor called a GAS pedal and this controls the whole car. If you have chatter your clutch is glazed, burnt, blued or oiled down. I have gone to a street twin, the discs are solid hubs without spring but the release and engagement are smooth. I don't have enought heat cycles or 500 breakin miles on it yet. I want my 600 ft of torque to be hooked to the trans and rearend without slipping. Why run a centerforce with the stupid sliding weights of you are not trying to get the total performance out of the motor? With your soft foot driving why would you every need another clutch?? This one should last a life time. I do have a question how is the high rpm shifting??? Rick l.
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