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CC Advertisers
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10-20-2011, 06:19 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Virginia Beach, Va & Port Charlotte, Fl.,
Posts: 2,292
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Not Ranked
It's more than the clutch's ability to hold a given horsepower/torque. The "stupid sliding weights", are pretty much useless, 'cept when you push in the clutch for a fast 5500 rpm shift and the weights keep the disc firmly pressed to the flywheel. Ask me how I know...
As far as strength goes, I've found a good OEM clutch (not parts store special) to have better clamp than CF's Dual Friction. I've had several run-ins with CF with my small and big block Chebbies.
For the OP, I run the aluminum SFI RAM flywheel on my KC Pond 482 with a single disc RAM 2600lb long style clutch and a sintered iron disc. I'm part of Rick's 600/600 club and have put 8000 miles on the setup with never a slip. Engagement it pretty smooth too. I also run drag radials all the time and have been know to lift a front tire or two 
FWIW, it was the KC's clutch of choice when I bought the setup. I do think that if I was to do it now I'd go with one of Rick's dual disc setups. You just can't beat the grip, coupled with the s-m-o-o-t-h engagement. They're 2+ times the cost though.
__________________
Too many toys?? never!
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10-20-2011, 06:23 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Forget Centerforce for the moment (and yes we removed those little gimmicky weights). Is there a benefit to having a clutch that has a hold ability that is greater than the peak point on the graph? And if so, what is it?
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10-20-2011, 07:01 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Louisville,
KY
Cobra Make, Engine: I'm Cobra-less!
Posts: 9,417
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Not Ranked
I usually aim for the engine's horsepower + 10%. That way if the customer decides that he/she wants to hit it one time at the strip with drag radials or slicks, the clutch will hold.
You're right, as the clutch disc's coefficient of friction goes up, the possibility of clutch chatter goes up as well. However, the weight of a Cobra really helps out here (as does a lower rearend gear ratio) and I can usually match a Cobra up with a sintered iron clutch disc and not have any issues. Where I really have to watch my P's and Q's is when I spec a clutch for something like a Galaxie or Fairlane with a 3.00 gear.
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10-20-2011, 07:10 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by blykins
You're right...
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Well, that answers that. And I was thinking that I was gonna have to challenge Undy to calculate the slope of the tangent line on that there curve.  Bet he was sleeping that day, though.  |
10-21-2011, 05:27 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Blitchton Ga,
Ga
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance aluminum427
Posts: 188
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Not Ranked
Starter Ring
I have a 484 BB FE motor with a Meleod aluminum flywheel that has a bad place on it where the starter won't engage have any of you guys had to replace the flywheel starter ring. Looks like the easest way to replace is pull the motor. What do yall recomend replace starter ring or new flywheel. Its a SPF Cobra
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10-21-2011, 05:34 AM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by flipscobra
Looks like the easest way to replace is pull the motor. What do yall recomend replace starter ring or new flywheel. Its a SPF Cobra
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If it were me, I wouldn't pull the motor -- just unbolt it off the back of the crank while the engine was in the car (now I don't know SPF tunnel configurations, but if you can remove the bellhousing while the motor is in the car there's clearly enough room to remove the flywheel). And if that flywheel was kind of funky to begin with, I'd just toss it and buy a brand new one. I wouldn't screw around with changing the ring. |
10-21-2011, 05:55 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Louisville,
KY
Cobra Make, Engine: I'm Cobra-less!
Posts: 9,417
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by flipscobra
I have a 484 BB FE motor with a Meleod aluminum flywheel that has a bad place on it where the starter won't engage have any of you guys had to replace the flywheel starter ring. Looks like the easest way to replace is pull the motor. What do yall recomend replace starter ring or new flywheel. Its a SPF Cobra
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I'd replace the starter ring....lot cheaper. |
10-21-2011, 10:24 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: E BRUNSWICK N.J. USA,
Posts: 3,841
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Not Ranked
Any chance of seeing a picture of the damage?
Flipscobra Any picture of the damage. Does your bellhousing have a block plate? What kind of starter do you have? If you are running a mini starter without trimming the block plate you will have only about 1/2 or 3/4 complete contact of the stater gear to the fly wheel. I had this problem with a mini starter. Something to check. Some guys machined the starter housing down .060" to help with engagement. If the flywheel was balanced with the motor, repair it, shop araound and compare repair against replacement of the flywheel. What condition is it in?? Rick L.
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