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10-20-2011, 07:01 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Louisville,
KY
Cobra Make, Engine: I'm Cobra-less!
Posts: 9,417
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Not Ranked
I usually aim for the engine's horsepower + 10%. That way if the customer decides that he/she wants to hit it one time at the strip with drag radials or slicks, the clutch will hold.
You're right, as the clutch disc's coefficient of friction goes up, the possibility of clutch chatter goes up as well. However, the weight of a Cobra really helps out here (as does a lower rearend gear ratio) and I can usually match a Cobra up with a sintered iron clutch disc and not have any issues. Where I really have to watch my P's and Q's is when I spec a clutch for something like a Galaxie or Fairlane with a 3.00 gear.
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10-20-2011, 07:10 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by blykins
You're right...
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Well, that answers that. And I was thinking that I was gonna have to challenge Undy to calculate the slope of the tangent line on that there curve.  Bet he was sleeping that day, though. 
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10-21-2011, 05:27 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Blitchton Ga,
Ga
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance aluminum427
Posts: 188
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Not Ranked
Starter Ring
I have a 484 BB FE motor with a Meleod aluminum flywheel that has a bad place on it where the starter won't engage have any of you guys had to replace the flywheel starter ring. Looks like the easest way to replace is pull the motor. What do yall recomend replace starter ring or new flywheel. Its a SPF Cobra
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10-21-2011, 05:34 AM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by flipscobra
Looks like the easest way to replace is pull the motor. What do yall recomend replace starter ring or new flywheel. Its a SPF Cobra
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If it were me, I wouldn't pull the motor -- just unbolt it off the back of the crank while the engine was in the car (now I don't know SPF tunnel configurations, but if you can remove the bellhousing while the motor is in the car there's clearly enough room to remove the flywheel). And if that flywheel was kind of funky to begin with, I'd just toss it and buy a brand new one. I wouldn't screw around with changing the ring.
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10-21-2011, 05:55 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Louisville,
KY
Cobra Make, Engine: I'm Cobra-less!
Posts: 9,417
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by flipscobra
I have a 484 BB FE motor with a Meleod aluminum flywheel that has a bad place on it where the starter won't engage have any of you guys had to replace the flywheel starter ring. Looks like the easest way to replace is pull the motor. What do yall recomend replace starter ring or new flywheel. Its a SPF Cobra
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I'd replace the starter ring....lot cheaper.
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10-21-2011, 10:24 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: E BRUNSWICK N.J. USA,
Posts: 3,841
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Not Ranked
Any chance of seeing a picture of the damage?
Flipscobra Any picture of the damage. Does your bellhousing have a block plate? What kind of starter do you have? If you are running a mini starter without trimming the block plate you will have only about 1/2 or 3/4 complete contact of the stater gear to the fly wheel. I had this problem with a mini starter. Something to check. Some guys machined the starter housing down .060" to help with engagement. If the flywheel was balanced with the motor, repair it, shop araound and compare repair against replacement of the flywheel. What condition is it in?? Rick L.
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10-21-2011, 10:38 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: E BRUNSWICK N.J. USA,
Posts: 3,841
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Not Ranked
pressure plate load was how clutches where sold
PatrickT. Pat in the old days clutches where light duty, heavy duty, and hauling or towing rate. 11- 12" clutches where a standard and in some cases still are for diesels. Gas cars have gone to twin disc with GM V8 motor stick cars. I ran 2,600 pound pressure plates in my CJ5 jeeps with stock motors, race motors went to 2,800 lbs. All ran organic discs. Never like metal ones or solid hubs. There where stronger, but no my favorate. I don't know what the street twin pressure is but with 2 10.5" discs, that's alot of holding surface. You can also run a pressure plate with 1,800 pounds of holding power. I'm guess but think the gold centerforce pressure plate is 22-2,400 pound of holding without the weights adding force to act as a lockup under high RPM's. I had nothing but problems over 3,400 rpms with shifting with the weights. I believe that some cobra manufactures sell there car with Centerforce but remove the weights. I learned to back in 98 and 6,000.00 dollars later. That was the price of 2 trannies. I do like your chart but it is not real life or street. Theory is just that. Have a good weekend. Last question, do you have 4 years to spare, looking for a sharp guy to run for the white house.  WE NEED A GUY LIKE YOU.  Rick L. ps have a nice weekend.  Undy would vote for you too. You have 3 votes and not even started.     
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10-21-2011, 10:40 AM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by RICK LAKE
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I would never make it past the vetting process. 
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10-21-2011, 11:17 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,078
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by RICK LAKE
PatrickT. Last question, do you have 4 years to spare, looking for a sharp guy to run for the white house.  WE NEED A GUY LIKE YOU.:MECOOL
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Rick-kill yourself.
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