Single or dual quad 427 s/o?

[Dennis Mosley]

I couldn't agree with Jim more.

On my first cobra, I had a 428 FE and went through a number of different intake set ups, 2x4, 6x2 and stack FI system. Of them all I think the 6x2 was the most unique but not the best performer, the stack system was awesome looking but the 2x4 was just old school like the car and ran great. I never got really good at tuning the stack system but it ran nicely as well.

My current cobra has a 427 S/O with a 2x4 set up. LOVE IT!!!! Car is super strong and starts with the slight touch of the push button start. I won't be changing this intake system anytime soon....although I might be tempted if I found another 6x2 system....but that would just be crazy I do still have that 428 in the garage...hummmm.

[FUNFER2]

Jim- do you think the original 2x4 intake made the difference or the correct carbs ? What carbs are they ?

[elmariachi]

Originally Posted by FUNFER2

Jim- do you think the original 2x4 intake made the difference or the correct carbs ? What carbs are they ?

Kevin, that's a great question. I am sure naysayers will say the performance increase was because the 4-barrels I had tried were tuned all wrong but I even had Keith Craft's guys dyno tune a Holley 3255-1 LeMans and the 2x4s were a vast improvement over it.

I bought a set of original BC/BDs, list 3300 and 3301 that had been restored/rebuilt. I literally took them apart to notate jets and PVs, bolted them back together and slapped the whole assembly on. I came back after an initial weekend of running, reset the float levels and decreased primary jet size to 66 from 68 and that's been all I have done.

The MR intake seems to sit a tad tale than the Sidewinder, which probably helps and having a package of carbs and intake that were factory tested and matched must count for something. For what its worth, about the highest vacuum reading I could ever get on the Sidewinder was about 6.5" Hg. I even changed intake gaskets to be sure, still no change. On this intake I am getting 9" Hg at idle.

I have not yet had the car on a chassis dyno but I plan to this winter. If nothing gets any better I am a happy camper.

[patrickt]

If you do end up going the Turkey Pan route, make sure you have one fabbed that is easily removable. If you have large hands (no offense), it is a real nuisance to do anything with a carb in a Turkey Pan. I had mine custom fabbed to be removable, and that's going on six years ago. Since then a couple of folks on here now provide "removable Turkey Pans" and they are well worth the added expense. See, Turkey Pans bolt under the carb, and over the intake manifold, so if you wanted to do somethink like change the little cam for the squirter, or even just adjust the idle mixture screws, it's almost impossible to get your hands down there. I tune my carb with a vacuum gauge and I don't think I could even get the hose on the fitting under the front of the carb if the TP wasn't removable. Some TPs have little holes in the side, which helps, but if you want to do somthing other than just turn a screw a TP that is not removable becomes a huge PITA.

[undy]

Short of stack injection the dual 750s with the Tunnel Wedge really tripped my trigger. The setup works terrific from idle to 6200 RPM, no flat spots or dead areas anywhere. The idle, part throttle and WOT AFRs were text-book on the chassis dyno too!

Barry_R can hook you up with a custom set of QuickFuel carbs (like mine) too.

[patrickt]

Now on the other hand, Undy would have no trouble getting his dainty paws in there to switch out the pump cam.