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Ordered KC/Pond 482 today
Just got off the phone with Tony at Keith Craft, ordering my 482. I'm a little undecided on cam selection. Car probably will not see the track, but does get some canyon running, and street play. I want something that really hits at idle, but do not want the bottom end so soft and full of surge that it is a big problem at low speeds. We discussed selecting a cam of about 242/248 on a 108 LSA. What do you guys with 482's run on the street. Want something in the 625 to 640 tq range on the street
Thanks Benny |
I'm usually at 248/254 with a 482 and Edelbrock heads. That's a hydraulic roller, and will peak right at 6000.
I would suggest something of that duration, but put it on a 108 or 109 LSA as Tony leaned towards. Last 482 I did with a similar cam had 636 lb-ft of torque. :) |
My 482 was not built by KC, but by FE Specialties, with cam specs of 108 LSA, 245/252 duration and .630/.651 lift and IIRC I hit about 613 tq and 605 hp. I love the cam spec, which I think is middle of the road, not too big and not too small. I probably could have gone one more notch up to make more HP, but all in all, very happy with the choice.
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Also, late at night, when it's really quiet out, I can hear it talk to me through the walls. |
I am looking at my next Cobra build and without a doubt will go BIG BLOCK. Screw the stroked small block stuff. I WANT TORQUE TORQUE TORQUE. I would go with the cam with the most low end torque and least required valve spring pressure. Last thing I would want is something run on the edge. With big cubic inches you should be able to satisfy the need for torque and hp and guarantee longevity.
I assume you are going with a roller cam? I will be following this thread closely as you are graduating from a stroked small block to big block. Cant wait to hear your seat of the pants difference once its installed. |
what the difference in weight and cost with an aluminium block vs cast iron? it would seam the cast iron is a little more "idiot" proof as you dont have the thermal expansion concerns as compared to cast iron. My preferences are;
Engine designed for longevity (100K). preferable roller cam which does not require adjustments and low spring pressure as the valve train is the most demanding service in an engine. Massive low end torque - release clutch and engine doesnt stumble If possilbe 12 mpg. |
No cast iron aftermarket FE blocks available right now.
A carbureted engine won't get to 100k miles.... |
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Original cast iron FE block - 200 lbs Genesis aftermarket FE block - 250 lbs Pond/Shelby aluminum block - 125 lbs |
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I grew up!!!!!!
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Depending on my Cobra path, if I buy a roller and need an engine you will be getting a call as the only two people I would even consider buying an "aftermarket" engine off of is yourself and KC. When I day KC I mean the guys in Arkansas, dont even know if the Texas outfit is still around.
Guess I better quick hijacking this thread. One last note for OP, I have never seen the used SPF market hotter and I know the market. List your existing SPF on on Cobra Country and buy a new roller for your 482. Prices are crazy right now and they are moving!!! Quote:
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Benny just have Keith drop the compression on the 482 and add a blower to it. You know you want to.
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Kevin |
If I was the OP I would list on Cobra Country for $69,500 and stick to it. The add cost $300 for 3 months. If it sells buy a new roller if not, you lost $300. Maybe it time for a Kirkham. Its a no brainer IMHO.
I guess a new roller can be had for $48k? wait till November $43k, maybe less. New TKO $2200, misc parts $3.5K, heck you are in a new roller for not much more than what you have tied up in your existing one with a 482. Once again look at Kirkhams and ERA's. There was a damn sweet BB ERA that went for $68K on CC, I was two months two late. That car today would easily be in mid-70's, once again the market is so hot right now. |
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Nice mild street motor (compared to some of the 482s). I think the compression is about 10.5:1. But ... these FE's are still beasts, and if you want all the HP/TQ you are talking about, you really don't have a street car. It will be an amusement park ride for sure ;) Suit yourself .. I would not change mine, but do take it to a track before you take it to the canyons **) Just fyi, mine does not run smoothly below 2000 rpm. So driving at low speeds in parking lots, away from a stop, etc. requires a lot of clutching and reving to keep the motor spun up. It comes up on the cam at about 3000, then it had better be pointed straight! I really could not use any more HP, the tires won't stick in any gear as it is. Soft tread compound is your friend :) No street tires, use Billboards, Avons, or (Nitto NT01's if you have 17" rims). Good luck! Sam |
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