Ordered KC/Pond 482 today

[Varmit]

Just got off the phone with Tony at Keith Craft, ordering my 482. I'm a little undecided on cam selection. Car probably will not see the track, but does get some canyon running, and street play. I want something that really hits at idle, but do not want the bottom end so soft and full of surge that it is a big problem at low speeds. We discussed selecting a cam of about 242/248 on a 108 LSA. What do you guys with 482's run on the street. Want something in the 625 to 640 tq range on the street

Thanks
Benny

[blykins]

I'm usually at 248/254 with a 482 and Edelbrock heads. That's a hydraulic roller, and will peak right at 6000.

I would suggest something of that duration, but put it on a 108 or 109 LSA as Tony leaned towards.

Last 482 I did with a similar cam had 636 lb-ft of torque.

[RodKnock]

My 482 was not built by KC, but by FE Specialties, with cam specs of 108 LSA, 245/252 duration and .630/.651 lift and IIRC I hit about 613 tq and 605 hp. I love the cam spec, which I think is middle of the road, not too big and not too small. I probably could have gone one more notch up to make more HP, but all in all, very happy with the choice.

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by RodKnock

..., but all in all, very happy with the choice.

How do you know?

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

How do you know?

It just sounds really nice when I sit in the driver's seat and go "vroom vroom."

Also, late at night, when it's really quiet out, I can hear it talk to me through the walls.

[madmaxx]

I am looking at my next Cobra build and without a doubt will go BIG BLOCK. Screw the stroked small block stuff. I WANT TORQUE TORQUE TORQUE. I would go with the cam with the most low end torque and least required valve spring pressure. Last thing I would want is something run on the edge. With big cubic inches you should be able to satisfy the need for torque and hp and guarantee longevity.

I assume you are going with a roller cam? I will be following this thread closely as you are graduating from a stroked small block to big block. Cant wait to hear your seat of the pants difference once its installed.

[madmaxx]

what the difference in weight and cost with an aluminium block vs cast iron? it would seam the cast iron is a little more "idiot" proof as you dont have the thermal expansion concerns as compared to cast iron. My preferences are;

Engine designed for longevity (100K). preferable roller cam which does not require adjustments and low spring pressure as the valve train is the most demanding service in an engine.
Massive low end torque - release clutch and engine doesnt stumble
If possilbe 12 mpg.

[blykins]

No cast iron aftermarket FE blocks available right now.

A carbureted engine won't get to 100k miles....

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by madmaxx

what the difference in weight and cost with an aluminium block vs cast iron?

The info is here on CC somewhere, but IIRC, here are the rough rounded weights of the various alternatives (+/-):

Original cast iron FE block - 200 lbs
Genesis aftermarket FE block - 250 lbs
Pond/Shelby aluminum block - 125 lbs

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by madmaxx

I am looking at my next Cobra build and without a doubt will go BIG BLOCK. Screw the stroked small block stuff. I WANT TORQUE TORQUE TORQUE.

BTW, max, I thought you were a "dyed-in-the-wool swear by it" SB man. What happened?

[madmaxx]

I grew up!!!!!!

Originally Posted by RodKnock

BTW, max, I thought you were a "dyed-in-the-wool swear by it" SB man. What happened?

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by RodKnock

The info is here on CC somewhere, but IIRC, here are the rough rounded weights of the various alternatives (+/-):

Original cast iron FE block - 200 lbs
Genesis aftermarket FE block - 250 lbs
Pond/Shelby aluminum block - 125 lbs

Aluminum heads, intake, water pump, and flywheel and you're within spittin' distance of the weight of a small block.

[RodKnock]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Aluminum heads, intake, water pump, and flywheel and you're within spittin' distance of the weight of a small block.

I think nearly every new SBF will have those items too, unless you're comparing it to an original all cast iron SBF.

[madmaxx]

Depending on my Cobra path, if I buy a roller and need an engine you will be getting a call as the only two people I would even consider buying an "aftermarket" engine off of is yourself and KC. When I day KC I mean the guys in Arkansas, dont even know if the Texas outfit is still around.

Guess I better quick hijacking this thread.

One last note for OP, I have never seen the used SPF market hotter and I know the market. List your existing SPF on on Cobra Country and buy a new roller for your 482. Prices are crazy right now and they are moving!!!

Originally Posted by blykins

No cast iron aftermarket FE blocks available right now.

A carbureted engine won't get to 100k miles....

[xlr8or]

Benny just have Keith drop the compression on the 482 and add a blower to it. You know you want to.

[kevins2]

Originally Posted by blykins

...A carbureted engine won't get to 100k miles....

Just trying to learn and understand. What are the details behind this?

Kevin

[madmaxx]

If I was the OP I would list on Cobra Country for $69,500 and stick to it. The add cost $300 for 3 months. If it sells buy a new roller if not, you lost $300. Maybe it time for a Kirkham. Its a no brainer IMHO.

I guess a new roller can be had for $48k? wait till November $43k, maybe less. New TKO $2200, misc parts $3.5K, heck you are in a new roller for not much more than what you have tied up in your existing one with a 482. Once again look at Kirkhams and ERA's.

There was a damn sweet BB ERA that went for $68K on CC, I was two months two late. That car today would easily be in mid-70's, once again the market is so hot right now.

[Varmit]

Originally Posted by madmaxx

I am looking at my next Cobra build and without a doubt will go BIG BLOCK. Screw the stroked small block stuff. I WANT TORQUE TORQUE TORQUE. I would go with the cam with the most low end torque and least required valve spring pressure. Last thing I would want is something run on the edge. With big cubic inches you should be able to satisfy the need for torque and hp and guarantee longevity.

I assume you are going with a roller cam? I will be following this thread closely as you are graduating from a stroked small block to big block. Cant wait to hear your seat of the pants difference once its installed.

yes a roller cam

[Varmit]

Originally Posted by xlr8or

Benny just have Keith drop the compression on the 482 and add a blower to it. You know you want to.

i'm finished with blowers that suicide missile I had in that 99 Vette affected the rotation of the Earth when it accelerated!!!!!. I'd run the quarter mile and the day would be 90 seconds longer, if I was running westbound!!!!!!!!

[SSSammy]

Originally Posted by Varmit

Just got off the phone with Tony at Keith Craft, ordering my 482. I'm a little undecided on cam selection. Car probably will not see the track, but does get some canyon running, and street play. I want something that really hits at idle, but do not want the bottom end so soft and full of surge that it is a big problem at low speeds. We discussed selecting a cam of about 242/248 on a 108 LSA. What do you guys with 482's run on the street. Want something in the 625 to 640 tq range on the street

Thanks
Benny

Benny, I have such a motor rebuilt by KC last August (after a rather dramatic rod bearing failure on the track). New Pond Al FE block, 482 stroker steel crank, H-beam rods, blueprinted oil pump, and 10 qt AVIAID pan. They put in a 242/248/110 roller cam, redid my Edelbrock Stage II heads, Erson roller rockers. It makes 591 hp at 5600 rpm. 604 tq. It has a 750 cfm Holley 4150HP.

Nice mild street motor (compared to some of the 482s). I think the compression is about 10.5:1. But ... these FE's are still beasts, and if you want all the HP/TQ you are talking about, you really don't have a street car. It will be an amusement park ride for sure Suit yourself .. I would not change mine, but do take it to a track before you take it to the canyons

Just fyi, mine does not run smoothly below 2000 rpm. So driving at low speeds in parking lots, away from a stop, etc. requires a lot of clutching and reving to keep the motor spun up. It comes up on the cam at about 3000, then it had better be pointed straight! I really could not use any more HP, the tires won't stick in any gear as it is. Soft tread compound is your friend No street tires, use Billboards, Avons, or (Nitto NT01's if you have 17" rims). Good luck!

Sam