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12-10-2001, 02:02 PM
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Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Kansas City,
KS
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA # 665, 390 (to start with) Toploader
Posts: 652
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Not Ranked
2 questions - loctite and waterpump fitting in intake
Hi Folks,
I have a couple of questions for the FE experts, hope you can help.
#1 - Where and when do you use loctite in engine assembly, and specifically which product (could use a number) do you use.
#2 - I have a sidewinder intake with a badly rusted water inlet, the one next to the thermostat that connects to the water pump with a really short hose. I got the old one knocked out and bought a new one from mansfield mustang. So what is the process for pressing this in? What kind of interference fit am I looking for and is there any kind of sealant used? The new one is steel and measures right around 0.62" The hole in the aluminum intake measures 0.60" which seems like would make for a pretty tight fight, too tight to get it in there I'd guess?
Thanks for any help you can offer,
Chuck Brandt
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12-11-2001, 10:31 AM
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I'm a bonehead!
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Where snow still flies,
Posts: 259
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Not Ranked
put the fitting in the freezer overnight.
then warm up the intake in the oven briefly.
the try getting the fitting into the intake.
I wouldn't think any sealant would be needed.
assumes clean, solvent-free, gas-free, anything-combustible-free manifold; and I wouldn't heat it up that much anyway.
WARNING:
just a thought on how this might be done, I've never actually tried this.
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12-11-2001, 12:33 PM
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The longest build.....
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Midwest, USA,
KS
Cobra Make, Engine: Mid-States, 428 Police Interceptor, TKO 5 speed, Jaguar rearend, Trigos, and Guardsman Blue!!!
Posts: 612
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Not Ranked
how fitting....
Hey,
Cobra Restorers sells a threaded brass nipple to replace the pressed in by-pass hose nipple.
I am using one on my 428 PI intake.
??? So which NFL team do you like now that our Chiefs are in the toilet??
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12-11-2001, 12:50 PM
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Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Kansas City,
KS
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA # 665, 390 (to start with) Toploader
Posts: 652
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Not Ranked
I may have to go that way, just though this might look more original etc. Seems like a machinist could make this work out. The hole (after beating out the old one) isn't really all that round anymore. It's probably good I need to drill it larger, just not sure how much.
I'm affraid I don't follow the cheifs much, sorry to hear they are tanking, not good for the local economy
CDB
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12-11-2001, 01:02 PM
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The longest build.....
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Midwest, USA,
KS
Cobra Make, Engine: Mid-States, 428 Police Interceptor, TKO 5 speed, Jaguar rearend, Trigos, and Guardsman Blue!!!
Posts: 612
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Not Ranked
machine shop
Just wondering, who in KC is building your 427 ????
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12-11-2001, 01:13 PM
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Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Kansas City,
KS
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA # 665, 390 (to start with) Toploader
Posts: 652
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Not Ranked
A place called Miller Precision Machine down in Olathe. He seems to know his stuff but is pretty overwelmed with work. He knows I won't be able to run it for a few months so I think I'm getting back burnered some. But I guess that's okay, I'm just anxious, you know...
I called around to several places and this guy seemed to be most familiar with FE motors, and had said he did motors for 2 or 3 cobra owners in the area. I didn't ask for references so I don't know who.
I'll let you know how much I like him when it's all said and done
Take Care, Chuck
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12-12-2001, 07:05 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Livermore,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #629, BBM Side Oiler Block, 482ci, Richmond 5 speed
Posts: 851
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Not Ranked
Regarding question #2, I used teflon pipe thread compound (you can find it in a hardware store - it's used for assembling galvanized pipe fittings). Either the Edelbrock instructions packaged with my manifold or my Ford FE rebuild book told me to use it.
Chris
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12-15-2001, 01:37 PM
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Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Kansas City,
KS
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA # 665, 390 (to start with) Toploader
Posts: 652
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Not Ranked
I think I got it, hope it doesn't leak :)
I got courageous (read antsy) and gave it a try, cleaned up the hole a little where I boogered it getting the old bypass tube out, then used blue silicone sealer and stomped it in there with my 12 ton press. It seemed to move easily and no cracks formed so I think I'm cool...
It's starting to look really nice (too bad it's sitting on a wooden crate instead of a 427 side oiler).
Thanks for all the input,
Chuck
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12-26-2001, 07:07 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Provo,
Ut
Cobra Make, Engine: Kirkham, 427
Posts: 6,990
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Not Ranked
Gents,
We use Hydraulic Lock on ALL of the hydraulic fittings. As for the water pump bypass, I would certainly recommend the tap and threaded fitting...although I see you have already pressed it in.
Pressing is dangerous (for the manifold--and they operator if he isn't careful) and so we prefer the threaded method.
We NEVER use teflon tape. It never works and you have to keep tightening and tightening and then BOOM! something breaks :cry:
I have NEVER had anything leak with hydraulic loctite. Just for some intereresting information...as time goes by, we use more and more blue locktite. It seems to seal just as good as the hydraulic stuff and you don't have to keep two bottles around.
We use it on brake fittings, and ALL pipe threads wherever they are. (There are lots of them on an engine and oil cooler system.)
We use the red stuff on flywheel bolts and pressure plate bolts. Be careful...parts usually break before the red does.
Hope this helps.
David
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12-26-2001, 07:52 PM
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Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Kansas City,
KS
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA # 665, 390 (to start with) Toploader
Posts: 652
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Not Ranked
Thanks that helps a lot.
Thanks David,
That helps a lot with the locktite question. Sounds like I may have gotten lucky on the press-in fitting, I'll remember your advise for future projects.
Thanks, Chuck
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