Leaking rear main seal

[steve meltzer]

My headpipes join the collector inside the fender, so there's not much clearance. Obviously, had I known this was going to be a problem, I would have separated the pipes with the engine out. Live and learn, I guess.

Curtis, thanx for the generous offer. The next few weeks are pretty busy for me, in terms of carving out a specific time to drag you to Bellaire. If I get a few moments to fool with it, I will, and if not, I'll contact you to set a time to fix this. thanx again. steve

[Dominik]

Bolt down one header tight as a starting point and let the three other loose and insert them all in the collector. Then tighten. It helps if you take the louvers out to reach inside. You might want to use studs for the headers. Helps positioning them and the serrated face nuts never come loose.

I had 3/8" individual flanges and a minimum of sealer (no gasket). Depending on the backpressure of your sidepipes you will not have any blow-by. Not even at the slip in collector. I advise using slip-ins with springs versus bolt ons.

I tried to teach people since many years that bolt on cause the pipe hangers to crack. Ducati listened ;-)

[Racer_X]

Originally Posted by steve meltzer

Curtis, thanx for the generous offer. The next few weeks are pretty busy for me, in terms of carving out a specific time to drag you to Bellaire. If I get a few moments to fool with it, I will, and if not, I'll contact you to set a time to fix this. thanx again. steve

Steve
I understand the busy schedule. Same here with daughter in marching band. As post above says, keep 1 pipe tight and loosen the other 3. I'm using studs on my pipes but I'm in the assembly process currently. Just holler when ready.
Curtis

[steve meltzer]

thanx for the ideas, especially the studs with serrated nuts. not sure why i never thought of it....so obvious in retrospect (as always) Off hand, do you guys have the size I'll need...and i can just order them as I sit here. thanx s

[Dominik]

Look at your bolts, they should be 3/8" NC, about 3/4 - 1" long. The studs would be 3/8"NC inside the head and 1/4" NF (with nuts) to hold the header. Total length must cover your 3/8" threaded part in the head, plus shank in flange thickness, plus the 1/4" thread with the nuts.

In doubt, order 2 sets... Summit and Jegs should carry them for small money. For headers you won't need highest grade bolts, but ARP makes the nicest set :-) (usd$70?)

You can also mix studs and bolts if you spaces are tight and the header won't fit over the stud. Or, insert the stud later. Hand tight will suffice.

Sunny greetings from South Africa!

[steve meltzer]

Thanx again, guys, most appreciated. I won't be able to get to this for a couple of weeks, and then with some adult supervision. steve

[steve meltzer]

OK, my friend helped me pull the right side pipes apart and it was easy from there. Had a bit of trouble starting her up, as I didn't pay as much attentnion as I should have to the distributor removal...and I know better! Up and running nicely now with timing set and plan to drive to work tomorrow. Had one loose radiator clamp, which lead to a hot messy puddle and one loose fuel line fitting, but easily remedied. Thanx guys, for all of your suggestions, going back to the early summer! steve meltzer