427 s/o Rockers

[BAsque1]

If you had a 427 S/O which roller rockers would you install? I am having a slight tapping of the valves on the right bank and someone suggested to change the rockers for roller rockers...
Any thoughts?
Tks
Lou
(Basque1)

[blykins]

Well, to answer your original question, I would use T&D's...

But...

I wouldn't jump ship over some tapping. The tapping could be a valve adjustment....or rockers hitting valve cover baffles....or worn rockers....or several other things.

The factory rockers are actually quite good for a lot of applications. If they're worn, it's one thing, but I would figure out what's causing the tapping first.

[Rick Parker]

blykins speaks the truth. The FE's are a little antiquated in that they utilize a long Rocker Shaft to support all the rockers. When I think of Rocker Shafts it takes me back to the days of racing 4 cylinder 1275 CC Minis and spinning them to 8500 RPM. The Rocker shafts inevitably wear when spring pressures were increased. I think the same hold true for FE's. If the shaft becomes worn, the bushings in the rockers wear then you're chasing your tail.
But the tapping could be one of many things. Look for witness marks on various components.

[BAsque1]

Tks guys it is a viable course of action, I will do that first. Actually I don't like to change something just for the sake of change, particularly on a side oiler. These are pretty much bullet proof engines if I may say so.
Tks again
Lou

[blykins]

Things wear over time. Get a mechanic's stethoscope and see if you can narrow it down.

The factory rockers work very well. I built a 427 for a road racer in England and according to rules, could not use a roller rocker arm. I used a set of factory adjustables, with some billet end stands and spacers, along with a solid flat tappet camshaft, with .640" lift.

[BAsque1]

Hummm interesting, I do have a mechanics sthetoscope I will try that first
tks
Lou

[BAsque1]

Originally Posted by blykins

Well, to answer your original question, I would use T&D's...

But...

I wouldn't jump ship over some tapping. The tapping could be a valve adjustment....or rockers hitting valve cover baffles....or worn rockers....or several other things.

The factory rockers are actually quite good for a lot of applications. If they're worn, it's one thing, but I would figure out what's causing the tapping first.

One question, I was under the impression that there is nop need to adjust hydraulic valves????

[Ron61]

Lou,

If you mean hydraulic lifters you could have one that is bleeding down and that will let some slop in the lift.

Ron

[BAsque1]

True Ron I was told the same b y my regular mechanic as well. I still need to do more indepth examining, but this will be part of my winter projects, which now amount to three.
Lou

[RICK LAKE]

BAsque1 BA, How about a first name, use and Alais if needed.
I am going need a couple of questions answered
Is this a solid or hydro lifter motor??
Does this motor have any oil modifcations done to it?
How many miles on it?
Have the valves been checked for correct lash if solid lifters? do this first and road test the car. If noise returns soon, we have a problem. Remove the oil filter and open it. Look for metal partials in it. If found, this motor get an overhaul.

Here's the thing, and you will not like this, Pull the intake and take out each lifter and check for trueless on the base with a flat edge. Also check the camshaft lobes for wear pattern. If this noise just started, and you can run either roller lifters, ( solid or Hydro ) and lose 1 or a couple. FE motors with the poor oil qualitity we get today have issues. IF the motor is a solid lifter, either roller or old style, they don't like to idle and they do need good oil spash to stay lubed. I am not going into the oil pressure issue and why I think that high pressure is needed, today. I am hoping you have min of 35 psi on the gauge at idle. 40 would be better, IMO.

Hydro lifters can collapse also.

To replace an SO block if you can find one that is not sleeved or .060" over is getting hard. What does the little guy on your shoulder say?? Listen to him, he right about 99% of the time.

If the motor has roller lifters the bars that keep the lifter straight in the bores could be worn out. I don't know how long the bars and steel studs last. I have hydro rollers with up grades and no failures from 8 years of racing.

Bas pull the intake and go through the valve train. Will take time but think you will fine something when apart. Save the FE dinosaurs. Summer is almost over. Good luck Rick L.

[BAsque1]

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

BAsque1 BA, How about a first name, use and Alais if needed.
I am going need a couple of questions answered
Is this a solid or hydro lifter motor??
Does this motor have any oil modifcations done to it?
How many miles on it?
Have the valves been checked for correct lash if solid lifters? do this first and road test the car. If noise returns soon, we have a problem. Remove the oil filter and open it. Look for metal partials in it. If found, this motor get an overhaul.

Here's the thing, and you will not like this, Pull the intake and take out each lifter and check for trueless on the base with a flat edge. Also check the camshaft lobes for wear pattern. If this noise just started, and you can run either roller lifters, ( solid or Hydro ) and lose 1 or a couple. FE motors with the poor oil qualitity we get today have issues. IF the motor is a solid lifter, either roller or old style, they don't like to idle and they do need good oil spash to stay lubed. I am not going into the oil pressure issue and why I think that high pressure is needed, today. I am hoping you have min of 35 psi on the gauge at idle. 40 would be better, IMO.

Hydro lifters can collapse also.

To replace an SO block if you can find one that is not sleeved or .060" over is getting hard. What does the little guy on your shoulder say?? Listen to him, he right about 99% of the time.

If the motor has roller lifters the bars that keep the lifter straight in the bores could be worn out. I don't know how long the bars and steel studs last. I have hydro rollers with up grades and no failures from 8 years of racing.

Bas pull the intake and go through the valve train. Will take time but think you will fine something when apart. Save the FE dinosaurs. Summer is almost over. Good luck Rick L.

Hi Rick, Lou here:
Tks for the very comprehensive and detailed procedures. The motor is hydraulic lifters, the oil filter has no metal at all.
changed the valve seals about 2000 miles ago. No modifications have been done to this engine with regards to the oil system.
Oil pressure within the normal range you mentioned.
I have 13630 miles on this engine or better yet since it has been on this car. I have no idea what was done before it was built. As a point of information the compression is very good, it was tested when the valve seals were changed. I do have a minimal puff of blue smoke between 1st and 2nd gears but nothing extravagant.
I don't plan on taking this engine out, this car is never raced only shown and short cruises so I can live with some of these small idiosyncrasies, I was am just a bit concern so that I don't bend a valve and damage my engine to a different level. Call me OCD bordering anal if you will but that is just me.
I am using Valvoline R-1 5-50 racing oil and before that Castrol non-synthetic. I hope this info gives you a better idea. By the way the idle is fine, never been better.
Tks
Lou