KevinW Kevin you have to correct specs. .035-.055". Brain to hand issues in the morning
. Have been told you have more room with a FE ford block. My shelby motor is more like a old 426 Donovan block from the 60's for funny and top fueler cars. I have not seen the utube movie but sure it should be OK to copy the repair.
I installed my backing plate centered on the block and bolted it down. Installed the starter and just used the soleniod to engage the bendix without turning the motor. I larger paperclip is .035" thick and perfect for the test. Mechanic wire would be ok to if it's thick enough.
THis whole setup was a pain in the butt. I did it in the car. The only good thing is the tunnel in ERA cars come out. Trans comes out from the inside of the car too. Couple of moving blanets to protect insides.
Good luck. When you get done with the repair do a couple of crankings. without the motor running. The engagement should be quiet and well as disengagement. If you cann't get the correct clearance you may have to move the bellhousing around a little. I think the spec is max of .010" off center before wear and problems can happen. Ps Kevin I am sure your mechanic is a good guy but over the years have come to fine that some guys cut corners on getting their product out to get payed. I would recommend you check the bell for being centered off the flywheel. need a magnetic base and dial indicator. It's a pain but you have piece of mind if OK. What if it's not???
I have been a mechanic for 3/4 my life and have seen just about every trick pulled and done to customers. The motor builders game is the worse. IMO more motors fail from wrong buildups than from customers abuse in the first 500 miles. Go on here and look up Jack Rousch motors and how many failures and problems getting them repaired. I big problem was camshafts eating distributor gears and leaving a pile of metal in the bottom of the motor.
I good machinist needs 50-80 hours for a complete buildup top to bottom. My 484 motor, just doing the stretch test for the ARP bolts for 8 rods to 3.5 hours to do with 3 tightening and loosening the bolts to get to .006" stretch on the rod caliper. It's the double and triple checking that has to be done and in most cases is not. Here the failure. PRIDE is what I want in his work not a smile or lets get a drink friendship. You pay and want your moneys worth.
Good luck. Have a good day. Rick L. Ps FE iron pig, BBC and Caddie motors weight more, I guess they are hippos.
Shelby block in the beginning where crap too with bad machine work and alot of out of location problems and holes not being threaded to the bottom for head studs. Distributor hole off center to match up on camshaft gear. Some blocks where machine out and a sleeve was installed to center. The list goes on. Reason for buying a shelby block, too hard to fine a good 427SO block to be original. Good thing, weight saved between iron and all aluminum 200+ pounds. MY motor dry weight is 496 pounds. ONly assembly lube. No dampener or flywheel. This is small block weight in iron. I can say that my ERA is a pig in weight at 2705 without my fat a$$ in the seat and 1/2 tank of fuel. Most solid car I have been in drivin and raced. 14+ year and still no noise from lifting it at a corner. Not the fastest but always in the hunt. Rick
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You have the correct spec.
Threaded Mode
