Fe Cobra Restoration?

[Dimis]

Originally Posted by talos

I have had my Everett Morrison, with original cast iron 427 Side Oiler, with webers, in storage for 16 years. Only 900 miles with ford 9" 4 link rear, coil over shocks all around, and 4 spd. top loader, steel hayes flywheel. I am now planning on bringing it out of moth balls. The car ran fine with the webers. My questions are:
1. Do I use my brand new aluminum edlebrock heads
2. Do I convert the webers to the new efi or rebuild the existing
3. New tire advise
4. Flywheel: aluminum or steel
All with consideration of what I will get in return for performance, looks, and $$, in return.

Thanks,
Tom

Nice ride, I like it.

Based on the criteria outlined, and bang for buck IMHO:


1. HEADS: Tricky one -ONLY if you have the cash...
Are they built ready to install?
How much extra do they flow than whats there?
If they flow significantly more then will this then trigger a cam change to match squeezing more ponies out? The costs here may grow quickly. If we are talking 200km a year possibly not worth it.


2. For 200km a year DON'T, I repeat "DO NOT" go chasing EFI.
EFI is great for a daily driver, but for a car seldom used, the expense will NOT yield any real performance gain. Even if handed an EFI system for free, the cost of tuning would out weigh any benefits, and those self tuning ones won't learn anything in 200km per year. There's no bang for your buck here... Consider this a friendly warning - I'll save the: TOLD YOU SO for later if you go down this path

If I was counting all my pennies, I'd swap the webers out for a single carb, on selling the webers for the money. BUT if it were MY car, I'd leave the webers in there, the COOL factor is just impossible to beat.


3. The best investment you can make for performance. +4 on the MT S/T for a budget performance option. Else Avons for top of the heap street going tire.


4. FWIW: I believe the majority would suggest getting a superlight Alu fly wheel.
As the general thought is the more you reduce the weight, the more the perceived in seat performance.

But at the risk of being contrare, the material, Alu vs Steel, is probably not as important as the "weight relative to the vehicle".

If it were me, I'd go for something on the slightly heavier side (22-28lbs?) it should require less clutch slippage to get you going from a dead stop. Plus should be less likely to lock up the rear wheels on a down shift, when driving aggressively. In all this, should give you more confidence in driving the car, which for mine is a major plus for performance.



Either way enjoy the rebuild, best of luck, and let us know how you are getting along with it