Question on 427 S.O. Casting

[huskersnake]

I am building a 427 Side Oiler and wondering what the casting marks in the attached picture means. It has provisions for hydraulic lifters. I was led to believe this engine block is from a '68' Cougar GTE. Could this be correct?

[RICK LAKE]

Huskersnake Is there any more stamping on the block? If you unscrew the plugs to the wateer jackets there should be a number on a cylinder wall saying 427, 390, 428. There should be some more numbers on the block. What or the numbers on the crankshaft and rods?
There was a hydro 427 so motor built. It is also possible it's a service block or out of a boat. Some guys got screw over by buying 427 boat motors. Some had reverse rotation.
MOre pictures of the block, heads , crankshaft and rods would help solve this problem. If it's a boat motor, the the cylinder walls sonic checked. They rotted out over time at the bottom of the block. Make sure the cylinders are not to thin either. You can have sleeves installed in the block if needed. Rick L.

[Mark IV]

The "8J25" is the casting date....68 year, "J" 10th month, 25 is the 25th. It could be a GTE block or a service or industrial block (more 427 blocks were used in industrial engine, pumps and boats than ever went into cars).

The casting code above the pan rail will allow further decoding.

[huskersnake]

Thanks to Rick and Mark IV for the information and questions to help me determine if this is a true S.O. and it's origin. This was purchased as a block only. I did some research on the oiling flows for an S.O. On this block, the oil leaving the filter enters the supply hole in the block and turns upward until it intersects the tube shaped bulge running from the front to the back of the block. There is what appears to be a casting flaw just above the pan rail on the R-H side of the engine. There was a very small pin-hole in the block that I repaired. I am not sure what to look for on the casting code. I have attached additional pics.

http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/aug41979/media/IMG_2642_zpsoawx8h81.jpg.html?o=76

[RICK LAKE]

huskersnake. I am not trying to be a bad guy here but don't like this block being from and GTE car.
First off these where very rare cars. IF this is the correct block, it's worth 2-3 grant for a restore guy.
Second the block repair work on the side, is it possible this was a boat motor and it rotted out on the side of the block and was repaired. I have never seen a OEM or service block with any repair work done. The good thing is location of the repair.
The pictures where great. Did you get a number off the crankshaft? THis would help with the info. Do you remember the bore size of the cylinders before you started building it. I would also have a sonic check done. You seen to be at a good machine shop and they may already have done this.
Here's the other thing, about 15 years ago, one of the Ford mags showed how to convert a 427 center oiler block to side oiler. IF you have the main caps the rest was cake. All you needed was a long drill bit to drill out the oiling gallery along the side of the block. SCrew in freeze out plugs are easy to get. The correct ones are harder. There are different sizes but look the same. Add some allen head plugs, align bore the mains, and you have a 427 sideoiler block. YOu will need to spot surface the out side of the block for where the side bolts go through. Spacers and made from mild Steel or black pipe and cut to fit. They are more for location of caps and anything else. They help pervent main cap walk under load.
Build the motor and see where it goes. Try to be careful. Side note, with the oiling system, add limiters to the rockers of a .080" oriface and an 80# pressure spring to an HVHP oil pump. A peroiler like an accusump would also be a good idea to pump into the motor. Pervents dry startups. Make sure the camshaft has .003" or less endplay. There is a oil plug behind the distributor in the block, Drill out a .010' hole to help add more oil to the 2 gears contact. This will help extend the life of the gears. Harden oil pump drive shaft also. INfo on the crankshaft needed for more answers. Rick L. Ps what camshaft are you looking at? Hope for hydro roller or solid roller.

[huskersnake]

RICK LAKE,
I purchase this as a bare block with no other parts except front and rear mains caps and bolts, center main caps with bolts, side bolts and spacers with L/R markings, rear three bolt cam shaft end cap, screw in hex head freeze plugs and oil pressure relief valve installed in the galley. As far as a crank with numbers, I can't provide that information. The installed crank is aftermarket. The seller indicated the block had previously been in CSX3337, but was removed to install the original block purchased by the owner of the car. With limited success, I have only been able to find a few pictures of what I believe is CSX3337. No history of engine work.
We plan on installing hydro rollers.
I do appreciate the build tips on the oiling system. I have attached a picture of the short block as it is today.

[RICK LAKE]

hushersnake The block is .020" over on bore. Should be safe.
AS for the oiling system. There is a 5 page article on improving the oiling system for all FE blocks. The most important is to enlarge the supply between the oil pump up to the front of the block and check the main oil supply going down the side of the block. The side gallery gets smaller the farther to the back of the block it goes. Some guys match the front to the back where the release valve for oil pressure is. Don't hit this with a drill bit. It's the same with matching up the main bearings and supply holes. Some guys ablong the holes to match. other say its to control the oil and help get more to the back of the block. Super Ford Mag that had the article has a picture of Bob Gliddens car on the front cover. Want to say the mag was done in 1988. Oiling system for cooler and lines, IF you are going orginal look, #10 lines are OK. IF you are looking to play hard, take the system to #12 lines. Oil pan, If you go with a windage tray, either stock one or Canton one drill holes in the bottom, about 8-10 hole in the center to help the oil return faster to the oil pan. Some guys add scrappers to help get the oil off the crank and back to the pan. Gaskets, Make sure that all the holes line up. Head gasket, one goes on backwards. Check the oiling hole for the heads. If installed wrong, no oil to head and rockers. Same for studs in heads, 1 is smaller to allow supply to rockers and springs, I use double valve cover cork gaskets. I glue them togeather. I flood my heads with oil. This helps cool the valve springs. The pos valve stem seal you will get no oil being sucked into the valves and ports. (Blue Startups). Smooth and blend all opening for oil supply.
Last note, intake manifold grind out the ports to match for coolant. Make sure that the machine work matches on the angles of the heads to the block, the intake to the heads. If the block was trued The center of it needs to be trimmed down also. Some guys have had .010" for surface cut and the intake will not seal. GUys are using studs for extra strenght to pervent leaks.
HYdro Roller camshaft, Crane used to make a .587-.607" hydro. It makes a ton of torque. Motor has a little lope and is easy on the valve train. I forgot if I retarded it or advanced it for more torque and less HP. All FE camshafts seam to come with a 4 degree offset built in. Need to dial in the camshaft. IT smokes the tires in 2 gears. The anti pumpup lifters crane used to sell are good for 6,500 rpm. The system floats at about 5,700-5,800 rpms. ONce you fill these lifters with oil they will not drain down. YOu have to pull them out and take apart to remove oil and reassembly. You get 1 shot at setup of rockers. You will need custom pushrods for this. Get the pushrod length kit to help with keeping the rocker on the center on the valve stem. I cheat to get another 400 rpms out of my motor without the major power drop off from hydro lifters. MY motor is aluminum and expands more that iron motors. I have the lifter plunger perloaded at .015". When motor is hot, makes a little noise but there is no major power fall off in the high rpms. I have an MSD 6AL with a 6,200 rpm chip. My motor is out of power here anyway and I am not wasting the motor with more abuse than needed. I have just under .100" between valve and piston clearance. Another check out thing.
Last rockers, not sure what you are going with, IF you can find a set of ERsons, buy them. Make sure you use studs for the shafts and get heavy duty ones. I started with a Dove setup and cracked 2 rockers and 1 shaft. get roller rockers for both tip and main pivot. Sorry for long info. Google should get you the oiling modes, if not send me an address, I will mail you a copy of them to look at. Last note, The oil pressure reading on the gauge IS NOT what the back of the motor is getting. A side oiler is better than a center oiler motor. You lose about 10-20 psi of pressure front to rear. Don't idle the motor for long is possible. PSS How about a first name, Sorry Husker and Snake don't work unless you are a farmer, Then you get the Massey-Ferg, John Deere, Case, I think you get where this is going. Rick L.