445 is ready

RACERAL · #1 (**permalink**) 10-06-2015, 06:32 PM

Thanks to you all that answered my dumb questions. Parts are on the way for the ass end of the motor. My roadster will be here Oct 15. Can't wait to stuff it in. Even if it is a lowly F5

RACERAL · #2 (**permalink**) 10-06-2015, 06:36 PM

I have been studying up on the cam that is in this motor and it is in fact a RV type cam... I hope it doesn't sound like a girly motor. That was what was in it when I bought it.
But it did make 500 ft lb at 3000 rpm...
It has a Oregon cam. Blue thunder heads, BT intake , Scat stroker. 780 qf. Dove water pump. CVF pulley's. Faron Rhodes dist. Canton pan from Keith Craft
It should make a good driver I hope.
If you see anything you don't like or I need to change, please let me know.
Is that alternator a Tarus... I got it from Power master.. I guess I paid 3 times to much.

cobrakiwi · #3 (**permalink**) 10-06-2015, 06:41 PM

If it runs as good as it looks you should be a very happy dude!
Sweet.

RACERAL · #4 (**permalink**) 10-06-2015, 06:43 PM

Thanks to you.... You are the one responsible for getting me into this mess... THANKS!!!

rodneym · #5 (**permalink**) 10-06-2015, 09:19 PM

That is one of the sharpest FEs I've ever seen!
Congrats!

Dimis · #6 (**permalink**) 10-07-2015, 03:37 AM

Lowly f5? Who are you kidding!?
That things going to be a beast with that killer engine!

Looks very sharp indeed.

Couple question if I humbly may...
With the blue thunder heads: Will you have any issues with the higher exhaust ports or finding headers to fit? Also do you know the flow numbers by chance?

Also you mentioned the alternator is a Taurus, but what about the mounting braket for the alternator, as best shown in pic 2. Now where do I get me one of those. That thing looks shmick!

Nice choices all round. Best wishes putting her all together.

Dimis · #7 (**permalink**) 10-07-2015, 03:46 AM

Sorry. For no explicable reason my phone does a double post....

Ron61 · #8 (**permalink**) 10-07-2015, 04:08 AM

That is a great looking motor and when you get it in the car you will have all of the power that you need. You did a very good job on building it.

Ron

RACERAL · #9 (**permalink**) 10-07-2015, 04:21 AM

The pulley's came from Billet Aluminum Pulleys and Brackets for Ford, Chevy, Pontiac and Chrysler (Dodge)
Disclaimer.. I didn't build the motor. KiwiCobra saw it for sale on a FE forum and told me about it.. it was about 7 hours from my house , So, early one morn, the devil went down to Georgia to pick it up.
Now , it looked like a truck motor when I got it and all the cool stuff on the outside I put on it.

RICK LAKE · #10 (**permalink**) 10-09-2015, 05:41 AM

RACERAL Al motor looks great. 4 problems I have had with FE motors as well as others here,
1 under driven pulleys. The crank shaft is smaller than the water pump looking at the picture. March came out with a set years ago of 27% reduction. The problem was with a 60-70 amp alt it doesn't spin fast enough and if at ilde for long periods of time and fuel pump, and fans are all running the charging system CAN'T handle the load and kills the battery. Yes you gain about 3-6 HP but with a weak charging system you have weaker spark, (yes even the MSD system) and have fans spinning slower and other issues. I know when this gets border line, the brake lights will cause a stumble with the motor before it all quits. The crank shaft and water pump pulleys should be running a 1-1 ratio. You are not Nascar.
2 This may apply to only Dove intake manifolds, The casting are poor in the ports of the coolng system in the front of the manifold. Do a gasket match to get FULL flow in the system. Keep the opening about an 1/8" inside the gasket all the way around.
# Thermo stat, another pain in the butt problem with motors overheating. I started with the 180f stat like other guys here. I have a shelby block and heads motor to start. It was a 452 with 9.2 compression and hydro cam. Had 3 fans on it from ERA and if it idled for more than 3 mnutes it was running in the 220 range. Over time and testing found that part of the problem was not enough flow of coolant through the stat. Stant makes thermostats and I pulled apart about 20 boxes to find the one I wanted. It's for a 383-440 dodge in the late 60's. The housing it self is 2mm larger than an FE, but the opening is a 1/4" larger there the coolant flows. I ground off the other ridge and it fits in the FE manifold opening. The top bridge needs to be pushed down a little to clear on over flow tanks for the FE's. Since changing over to this thermostat, I have no more cooling issues. The temp drops 30 degrees when this thing opens and after the coolant is warned, it holds. After 20 minutes of racing 201-203F. Side note, if your radiator is straight up and down this doesn't apply. ERA is set at a 30-40 degree angle. The 2 small pusher fans look cool but block the air flow. ERA sales an air dam that bends the air in the opening to get more air through the radiator. Air doesn't like to bend. Except for the weight savings both the copper and aluminum radiators both work well
4 this is a small thing, If the water pump is Edelbrock it has a plate that rivets to the back of the impellor to help coolant be pushed through the system. If it doesn't you can have reversion in the system. They sell a kit for like $15.00. or you can make one from good tin and drill 1/8" holes and rivet it on yourself.
This s the list of problems I have had over the years and fixes. The choice is yours. For what I have been through, It's alot easier to do the changes on the engine stand and check than once in the car. Nice motor, good power in the torque range, it will haul the bacon and smoke the tires. Good luck Rick L.

RACERAL · #11 (**permalink**) 10-09-2015, 05:55 PM

Thanks Rick.. The intake and heads are Blue Thunder.. The water pump is a Dove.
I didn't realize the pulley system was underdrive. I just emailed them to see, as there is no mention of this system being underdrive. I hope not as I did not want that. Good info about the thermostat. The alternator is 120 amp http://www.jegs.com/i/Powermaster/713/77491/10002/-1

This is the pulley set.. says nothing about being underdrive http://www.cvfracing.com/Ford-390-Se...entine-alt.htm

RICK LAKE · #12 (**permalink**) 10-10-2015, 03:49 AM

RACERAL Al before installing the motor, either Call Dove and ask about the water pump having an anticavition plate on the impellor. If they don't, get one. I don't have alot of faith in this company. They used to be the only ones making FE parts. They sold all types of different heads, intake manifolds, blocks, and every other thing you could think of for the FE motor. These where good design with poor machine work or casting. Pouring aluminum is a gift. I used to do it in Macine shop a long time ago. I have a can-am oil system and have no help with info on this setup. I even stopped in 1 year to talk to Jim jr and he knows nothing about his products.
Suggestion is pull the water pump and remove the back cover and check the impellor. If you are careful a little thin coat of rtv,( thin coat) and reuse gasket and cover. Medium loc-tite and don't over tighten these bolts, or button head bolts.
I also think that Doves has their own impellor design. Not 100% sure on this. Good luck with motor and car.
Alt will be fine even if it is underdriven. As long as it gets a signal to turn on and charge you are good. Another note, run a voltage gauge in the car and not an AMP gauge. The amp gauge Can't handle the ampage if the power all goes through it. The terminal plastic sleeves will melt and short out over time. It took my 70 amp 8 years to cook them. There is no perwarning except the smeel of burning and by this time it's too late. There is a couple of threads on here about switching over and SW gauges sell a cobra looking gauge. You can paint the indicator all white to remove the color. Ps I love torque motors, just make sure the drivetrain is up to the torque loads, this means the trans and rear diff. Rick L.
CVFracing I think sells single pulleys. Match the water pump to the crankshaft. I want to say they should be about 5" diameter. Just might need the next surp belt larger to work. The belt length is the end numbers on it in Metric. Any parts store should be able to hook you up.
Al the pictures make the pulleys look different diameters. Measure them for size. As long a the crank and water pump pulley are the same diameter, run it. IF you have a over heating problem, we will deal with it at that time.

RACERAL · #13 (**permalink**) 10-12-2015, 06:52 PM

Rick, I measured the water pump and the crank pulley and they are the same size.
When the time comes, I will keep everything you said in mind. Thanks for the input.
I am such a novice on this FE stuff.. hell, all motors for that matter

cobrakiwi · #14 (**permalink**) 10-16-2015, 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RACERAL

Thanks to you.... You are the one responsible for getting me into this mess... THANKS!!!

The only problem I see is you needed one of my cars for that beast!!!!!

RACERAL · #15 (**permalink**) 11-19-2015, 02:21 PM

Kiwi... that is so flipping true. Man, what a work of art.

Bernica · #16 (**permalink**) 11-19-2015, 02:51 PM

Beauty engine. Just so clean! Congrats dude!

Anthony · #17 (**permalink**) 11-19-2015, 04:53 PM

I don't know, maybe you should just leave it on the stand, and display it in your living room, as a work of art instead of installing it in a car where you can't see much of it.

RACERAL · #18 (**permalink**) 11-23-2015, 05:53 PM

I be building fast as I can... hope to have it set in the bay by late winter.

Bernica · #19 (**permalink**) 11-23-2015, 06:44 PM

Good luck and keep posting pics of your progress!

Ron61 · #20 (**permalink**) 11-26-2015, 03:03 AM

Same here. I am looking forward to more pictures as you get your build going.

Ron



FE Forums sponsored by Keith Craft Inc.