Setting Timing

[Bernica]

If you are referring to just disconnecting the vacuum hose from the dizzy, just stick a golf tee in it.

[Large Arbor]

The distributor is the mechanical advance type.

Phil

[Bernica]

Originally Posted by Large Arbor

The distributor is the mechanical advance type.

Phil

Sorry, my bad. I thought you were on vacuum advance. Couldn't figure out what you were saying about a vacuum fitting...

[Large Arbor]

Black one, it was the same size that came out before. Also using the silver springs.

Phil

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Large Arbor

Black one, it was the same size that came out before. Also using the silver springs.

Phil

The black one limits you to 18 degrees, so if you want to shoot for 35 degrees all in, your idle timing will be 17 degrees. If you find you want less idle timing, like me, then you're going to have to change your bushing so the total comes out to the sum that you want. The bushing is easily changed, just Google a vid for it on YouTube. I use the silver bushing, that limits the advance to 25 degrees, and I have 10 degrees at idle, so my all in timing is 35 degrees.

[Bernica]

Originally Posted by patrickt

The black one limits you to 18 degrees, so if you want to shoot for 35 degrees all in, your idle timing will be 17 degrees. If you find you want less idle timing, like me, then you're going to have to change your bushing so the total comes out to the sum that you want. The bushing is easily changed, just Google a vid for it on YouTube. I use the silver bushing, that limits the advance to 25 degrees, and I have 10 degrees at idle, so my all in timing is 35 degrees.

Wow, 10 degrees to 25 all in Patrick? Sounds low, but I am sure I'm missing something. I have always been at 18/36 or thereabouts...

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Bernica

Wow, 10 degrees to 25 all in Patrick? Sounds low, but I am sure I'm missing something. I have always been at 18/36 or thereabouts...

No, ten initial but 35 total. Here is my timing curve.

[Large Arbor]

I want to be at 35 degrees at 4,000 rpm.

Phil

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Large Arbor

I want to be at 35 degrees at 4,000 rpm.

Phil

If I wanted it to come in later I would just use a stiffer spring combination, but I think you'll find having it all come in before 3000 RPM to be quite rewarding.

[Large Arbor]

Thanks Patrick. I will toy with different bushings. Seems Ike I have a lot of color choices but will try the silver one first.

Phil

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Large Arbor

Thanks Patrick. I will toy with different bushings. Seems Ike I have a lot of color choices but will try the silver one first.

Phil

Here are the instructions: http://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/5478464.pdf Just get your initial timing to something that pleases you at idle and cranking. Then choose the bushing that adds up to what your total sum should be as recommended by your builder. Then you tweak the springs to have it come in as quickly as you can while keeping good engine manners. It's not that hard.

[Large Arbor]

10-4, that is what it is doing now as its all in at 3,000. My problem is I do not know initial crankshaft degrees. Should I experiment with bushing sizes? The MSD sheet shows the following:

[Bernica]

You should definitely find your TDC and get a timing tape to use to establish your timing marks as mentioned above. Also, just taking a shot here..but ask your engine builder if he indexed the cam.
My 2 c...not worth much.

[Large Arbor]

I can see the timing marks on the balancer. I have a mark at 0 and 38 or 35 and I can see them well.

Phil

[patrickt]

Tell you what, try setting your distributor to exactly what I run. Same springs, same silver bushing, and set your timing to 35 degrees at 3000 RPM. That will set your initial timing to ten degrees. That will give us a nice starting point.

[DanEC]

I will digress from Patrick a little - if this engine has a healthy cam and the distributor doesn't have vacuum advance, I would run the blue or purple bushing. I would try to run around 15 to 16 degrees of initial advance. I had Tim O'Connor set up my 427 dual point distributor and I it has 22 crank degrees of centrifugal advance and then I run 16 degrees initial (but I have low compression steel heads) for a total of 38. This will give you a stronger idle, help keep the engine a little cooler in traffic and make starts a little less of an issue.

[patrickt]

For historical purposes only, but as an insight in to the issue of timing on 427/428 engines, here are the specs from the original Ford Service Manual. Note the reference to adding an additional five degrees of advance.

[PeteF]

Large Arbor, I found some spare circlips in an old Holley rebuild kit, new in bag. I'll mail them to you if you give me an address.

[Large Arbor]

Thanks Pete, I did however drop $5 on some assorted sizes and I think one will work. If they don't I will PM you my address!

Phil

[Large Arbor]

Ok, I have tried various bushings and it seems to be best with the Blue one. I can set it for 35 degrees, but when de-accelerating it does not seem to want to return to an idle with the blue bushing. It seems like the black bushing gave the best idle but with it I could not get to 35 degrees. It's kind of difficult doing this with one person. I have help coming tomorrow.

The Blue bushing and stiffer springs (silver) seems to give me the most advance movement.
I will try to get closer tomorrow. Any thoughts you folks have are greatly appreciated.

Phil