Powermaster 9606 starter motor nightmare

[KevinW]

OK, just for clarification, this is an old iron 1972 Ford FE block, Lakewood bellhousing , mating up to a small spline 4 speed toploader. I am using the Powermaster solenoid on the starter. Thinking it may be worth rigging up the traditional firewall mounted solenoid I have in the parts bin to see what happens.

[KevinW]

OK, thanks for all the help so far.
I finally extracted the wrench.
And, as suggested, tightenend everything back up.

Now I just want to check I haven't done something really stupid here.
First up, I connected the unit using the terminal shows here:
http://thumbs1.picclick.com/d/l400/p...arter-351M.jpg

http://image.fourwheeler.com/f/10469...er_mounted.jpg

The fat terminal was connected direct to my battery (via an FIA cut out switch), and the skinny terminal was connected to the ignition switch, on the 'start' setting.

So, Q1 - can i confirm this is correct?

I checked the earth on chassis/frame engine and starter body- all earths seem good.

So this w/e I tried to bypass the starter solenoid. However, I have now chickened out of this after i made some more measurements. I had assumed that the place to bypass the solenoid was to connect the battery feed to the terminal under the blue plastic covering shown in the bottom pic. This seems to connect the solenoid section to the starter motor part of the unit. However, I found that there is a direct path to ground from this terminal to the solenoid, so i was worried that connecting the battery in here would kill the battery.

So Q2: How do you bypass the solenoid on a Powermaster starter?
and is this terminal meant to have a direct path to ground?

I see that the Powermaster literature talks about an earth/ground lead, but I had assumed the unit didn't need a separate earth/ground lead, and would earth through the engine to the frame.

My patience is now running a little thin :-/
Any further comments and help much appreciated.

[Gaz64]

There two terminals on the starter.

Leave the big battery lead off the starter (insulate the terminal temporarily) and just have the small start lead connected.

These two leads are side by side, the other side (under the blue cap) is the motor winding side after the solenoid contacts.

Operating the starter should then allow the pinion to mesh, to check all of the necessary clearances etc.

Don't even think of operating the starter until these measurements are correct.

Pinion mesh depth axially and radially must be correct or noisy and failure is the result.

They also don't like lots of ignition timing that might cause starter kickback.

Gary

[KevinW]

Thanks Gary.
So if i understand correctly, you are suggesting i attach the key switched +12V to the small terminal as i had previously, and then attaching a solenoid switched 12V feed to the terminal under the blue cap?

I am not sure I understand how feeding 12V to the small terminal helps if the in-built solenoid has failed? Or does it activate the motor windings as well?

'Operating the starter should then allow the pinion to mesh, to check all of the necessary clearances etc.
Don't even think of operating the starter until these measurements are correct.'

I also dont know how to make any measurements without actually spinnng up the starter - the sheet i have suggests i make marks on the output spines to check they mesh with the flywheel when its activated?

Sorry if these are dumb questions, just trying to understand all this. Previously i have used a stock starter, bolted on, and done.

[Gaz64]

12 volt on the small terminal, operates the solenoid and meshs the pinion with the ring gear, BUT does not turn the engine.

We can leave it operated like this, to check the mesh depth of the pinion.

When you are happy with this, you then fit the heavy battery lead to the large terminal next to it.

Gary

[KevinW]

OK thanks, i didnt know that. The solenoid isn't even clicking, so looks like its gonna have to come out, either way.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by KevinW

OK thanks, i didn't know that. The solenoid isn't even clicking, so looks like its gonna have to come out, either way.

... it's a lot easier to bench test it that way.

[Gaz64]

Originally Posted by Gaz64

12 volt on the small terminal, operates the solenoid and meshs the pinion with the ring gear, BUT does not turn the engine.

We can leave it operated like this, to check the mesh depth of the pinion.

When you are happy with this, you then fit the heavy battery lead to the large terminal next to it.

Gary

And obviously, you disconnect the negative at the battery, before you fit the positive at the starter.

Gary

[Gaz64]

This is a new starter motor, and 12v on the small terminal AT THE STARTER MOTOR does not energise the solenoid? (Of the starter, not a firewall mounted solenoid).

Is that correct?