Powermaster 9606 starter motor nightmare

[Gaz64]

12 volt on the small terminal, operates the solenoid and meshs the pinion with the ring gear, BUT does not turn the engine.

We can leave it operated like this, to check the mesh depth of the pinion.

When you are happy with this, you then fit the heavy battery lead to the large terminal next to it.

Gary

[KevinW]

OK thanks, i didnt know that. The solenoid isn't even clicking, so looks like its gonna have to come out, either way.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by KevinW

OK thanks, i didn't know that. The solenoid isn't even clicking, so looks like its gonna have to come out, either way.

... it's a lot easier to bench test it that way.

[Gaz64]

Originally Posted by Gaz64

12 volt on the small terminal, operates the solenoid and meshs the pinion with the ring gear, BUT does not turn the engine.

We can leave it operated like this, to check the mesh depth of the pinion.

When you are happy with this, you then fit the heavy battery lead to the large terminal next to it.

Gary

And obviously, you disconnect the negative at the battery, before you fit the positive at the starter.

Gary

[Gaz64]

This is a new starter motor, and 12v on the small terminal AT THE STARTER MOTOR does not energise the solenoid? (Of the starter, not a firewall mounted solenoid).

Is that correct?

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Gaz64

This is a new starter motor, and 12v on the small terminal AT THE STARTER MOTOR does not energise the solenoid? (Of the starter, not a firewall mounted solenoid).

Is that correct?

That's why I call for a bench test.

[Gaz64]

Originally Posted by patrickt

That's why I call for a bench test.

Yes, agree, I would do that with a new starter, especially out of a box, versus reconditioned where you know it would be tested.

[KevinW]

Originally Posted by Gaz64

This is a new starter motor, and 12v on the small terminal AT THE STARTER MOTOR does not energise the solenoid? (Of the starter, not a firewall mounted solenoid).

Is that correct?

That is correct.... unless that solenoid is very quiet compared the Ford one I have.

Its new-ish. The engine has been standing for 4 years following delivery from the engine builder (who is now retired). The cam was run in on the dyno. Last winter the garage was very very damp so even my S&HG air filter housing started to rust (got a Carcoon for this winter). I think this is what did for for clutch, which was fine the previously. So I suspect the insides of the solenoid are rusted. Engine def not seized - i can comfortably turn it on a breaker bar on the crank nut.

So all the evidence is saying pull this mother out, like Patrick said a while back...been trying to avoid this as its a total SoB to remove If it aint easy to fix I am tempted to just get a standard ford starter now, no messing about with meshing and shimming on the flywheel.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by KevinW

... like Patrick said a while back...been trying to avoid this as its a total SoB to remove If it aint easy to fix I am tempted to just get a standard ford starter now, no messing about with meshing and shimming on the flywheel.

That standard, rebuilt Ford starter that I have in my pic above cost less than fifty bucks and is pretty much stacked up in the back of every Pep Boys, AutoZone, NAPA or O'Reilly's. I think Ford made over one trillion of them before discontinuing their use. Why don't you just pick one up on your way home from work and see if it isn't a whole lot easier than screwing around with the PM 9606. And with a socket, and about two feet of extensions, it's not that hard to get on. Plus, it's really easy to wire up -- just one wire and one terminal. Yep, even RodKnock could figure that one out.