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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2017, 08:44 AM
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Same here Ted.

I rather like the test results of Mobil 1 10W40 and it's readily available pretty much anywhere.

Paul
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2017, 09:26 AM
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FYI. Brad Penn Motor Oil has been renamed PennGrade1. https://www.penngrade.com/penngrade-1/
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 12-02-2017, 12:12 PM
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Well, I have at last pulled the engine out and stripped the top and bottom ends off. It was obvious that something was amiss with the follower of the missing cam lode because it wouldn't come out through the top of the block like all the rest.
I pulled the cam out and and the problem lobe looked like someone had taken an angle grinder to it and nicely rounded all the edges off. I pushed the corresponding follower out through the bottom and what should have been a very slight convex face was a very defined concave to match the nicely rounded cam.
On the plus side, everything else looks to be in really nice condition and having check a couple of big-ends, they look perfect with absolutely no signs of marking, let alone scoring.
I think I may have dodged a bullet.

Paul
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 12-02-2017, 01:00 PM
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you did dodge a bullet, still tear it all down and have the block cleaned really well.
all those fine particles are in the oil galleys and will act like little files on the motor
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Old 12-03-2017, 05:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blykins View Post
I would still use a small break-in period.

... but the lifter bore positions vary from block to block, and even the lifter bore clearances vary.
Thanks for that. I've been telling people since years that swapping a cam&lifter from one block in another may lead to premature loss of cam lobes.
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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 12-24-2017, 10:08 AM
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Hi and Merry Christmas,

I'm compiling my shopping list of parts required to reassemble my 427. I'm planning to fit new mains and rod bearings, but I'm baffled by the array of options and manufacturers with widely varying prices.
Can I have some recommendations from those in the know please? My rod journals are std. and the mains are -0.020".
I was also going to buy a taper piston ring compressor sleeve, but I couldn't work out which size I need as none of them on the Summit website seem to match the 427 bore size.

Thanks in advance,
Paul

Last edited by FatBoy; 12-25-2017 at 05:14 AM.. Reason: Typo
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 12-24-2017, 03:53 PM
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Not much choice in main bearings for .020" under. I'd use a King 559AM020 for the mains. Federal Mogul 8-7170CH for the rods.

If you want a performance bearing for the mains, you can also grab a set of Federal Mogul 146M20 bearings and grind the tangs off. They are Cleveland bearings, but the Cleveland shares the same main bore housing diameter as the FE; just the tangs that are different.

For a ring compressor, you'll probably have to go to an adjustable one.
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Old 12-24-2017, 11:34 PM
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I also suggest an adjustable ring compressor. They come in a set from Snap-On (Blue Point?) with a ratchet to hold the compressor ring closed. Oil everything well and hit the piston with a purpose that the piston rings have no time to expand the very moment when they slide in.

The ratchet registers offset on the ring compressor. Place the lower end towards the bore and square the ring when you hit home.

If you have studs on the rods, sleeve with fuel hose that they won’t nick the journals.
No oil between the bearing halves and the rod/main.

There are a 100+ more engine building tips, but I guess you did your research :-)


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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 12-25-2017, 02:56 AM
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Thank you. I have Le Mans rods, so no studs to worry about.
Why no oil on the bearing halves? 🤔
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 12-25-2017, 03:26 AM
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I have about 30-40 tapered ones and prefer to use them, but I could never find one for a standard bore 427, so I just use an adjustable one.

He meant no oil or lubricant between the bearing shell and the rod or main.
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 12-25-2017, 05:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blykins View Post
I have about 30-40 tapered ones and prefer to use them, but I could never find one for a standard bore 427, so I just use an adjustable one.

He meant no oil or lubricant between the bearing shell and the rod or main.
Ah, okay, that makes more sense. 🙂

Are any types of ring compressors better than others?
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 12-25-2017, 05:27 AM
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What's your exact bore size? I see that ARP now has a 4.232".

If you can buy a tapered compressor, I like those best. If not, just an adjustable band type will work with a little finesse.
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Old 12-25-2017, 06:25 AM
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Summit do adjustable tapered compressors.
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 12-26-2017, 10:21 PM
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Be sure and also replace the oil cooler.
Cleaning is not good enough.
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Old 12-27-2017, 12:26 AM
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I was planning to replace it, but I have cleaned it out and flushed it through a number of times with clean fuel and there has been no sign of any debris at all.

Do you still think I need to replace it?

Paul
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Old 12-27-2017, 12:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blykins View Post
What's your exact bore size? I see that ARP now has a 4.232".
I'll check the Pistons, but I'm pretty sure it's still on standard bore sizes.

What size should the ring compressor be compared to the bore size?
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2017, 03:31 AM
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I've never tried to fudge it, so I'm not sure on what you can get away with. The piston size wouldn't be the problem, but hanging the rings up on the block on the way down would be the issue.

I think 4.233" is true bore size for a standard 427, so that 4.232" compressor should put you in a good spot.
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Old 12-27-2017, 07:40 AM
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I didn't mean to scare you away from buying the adjustable ring compressor by saying the process needs a bit of confidence when you ram the piston in. If the rings are not on the piston yet, buy a $8 ring expander.

I did approximately 30 engines in my life, means I am a novice everytime I build one, and it works 80% of the time for each piston immediately. The other 20% get a second turn.

Most important is the speed at which the piston gets inserted and that you have the tool ring square on the block. I feel that just pushing the piston down with one hand won't work. I use a hammer handle to knock it lightly.

There are endless debates about how to position the ring gap, but I leave that for another time!

I agree with Kirkham about the oil cooler. My mate rebuilds engines and automatic transmissions. The oil cooler gets replaced.

The bearings need to sit dry in the block or rod to transfer heat. You may find them oily, however, when you strip an engine...

Of course, oil the operating surface. Also a drop on the front and rear main seal will avoid it burning away during break in.

PS: A bit of history. I lost a cam lobe in an all aluminium Chevy (Reynolds block). I had water seepage around the head studs leading to reduced lubrication. I lost a complete side-oiler because the builder used 390 rods. Apparently tested, but the beach marks at the crack speak another language. I am now extra careful. Buy that oil cooler..
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Last edited by Dominik; 12-27-2017 at 07:53 AM.. Reason: more info
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 12-27-2017, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FatBoy View Post
I was planning to replace it, but I have cleaned it out and flushed it through a number of times with clean fuel and there has been no sign of any debris at all.

Do you still think I need to replace it?

Paul
Yes. It is very cheap insurance.

Consider your engine oil is at 200 degrees and 100 PSI and really flowing. I do not know of any cleaner that is even close.
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Old 12-27-2017, 07:53 PM
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Not a reply, but a question. Has anyone had to remove a bad solid roller tipped lifter from their motor when it was stuck in the lifter journal? If so, how did you do it. Got one eating up my cam and it won't come out peacefully. Can't get the cam out until the lifter is removed.
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