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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2017, 10:33 AM
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My worn follower wouldn't come out the top, but I was able to drop it out the bottom once the cam was removed. If you can't removed the cam due to the damaged follower, you may have a bit more of a challenge on your hands.

Paul
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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2017, 10:49 AM
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I started the reassembly today, but on unpacking Doug's H+M cam and followers, I discovered that it has shell rather than dumbbell type followers, which obviously means longer pushrods.

My question is, would it be easier and possibly cheaper to buy a new set of dumbbell followers, or do I need to get some custom length pushrods?

I have Dove roller rockers and I've just ordered some new posts, end-supports and spacers from Precision Pumps.

Thanks,
Paul
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2017, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by FatBoy View Post
Well, I have at last pulled the engine out and stripped the top and bottom ends off. It was obvious that something was amiss with the follower of the missing cam lode because it wouldn't come out through the top of the block like all the rest.
I pulled the cam out and and the problem lobe looked like someone had taken an angle grinder to it and nicely rounded all the edges off. I pushed the corresponding follower out through the bottom and what should have been a very slight convex face was a very defined concave to match the nicely rounded cam.
On the plus side, everything else looks to be in really nice condition and having check a couple of big-ends, they look perfect with absolutely no signs of marking, let alone scoring.
I think I may have dodged a bullet.

Paul
The lifter and the lobe disappear like this from lack of rotation.

Can happen suddenly and failure occurs in a short period.

Gary
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  #64 (permalink)  
Old 12-31-2017, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dominik View Post
Thanks for that. I've been telling people since years that swapping a cam&lifter from one block in another may lead to premature loss of cam lobes.
Yes + 1.

The lifters are considered used. Swapping a cam to another engine needs new lifters.
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  #65 (permalink)  
Old 12-31-2017, 03:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FatBoy View Post
I started the reassembly today, but on unpacking Doug's H+M cam and followers, I discovered that it has shell rather than dumbbell type followers, which obviously means longer pushrods.

My question is, would it be easier and possibly cheaper to buy a new set of dumbbell followers, or do I need to get some custom length pushrods?

I have Dove roller rockers and I've just ordered some new posts, end-supports and spacers from Precision Pumps.

Thanks,
Paul
Can you post a pic?
Never heard of Dumbbell followers.
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  #66 (permalink)  
Old 01-01-2018, 12:47 AM
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Here is a link to the Comp Cams solid "dumbbell" lifter:

https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...5-16/overview/

Based on the advice being given, I should be buying new lifters in any case. In retrospect, it would probably have been easier to buy a new cam and lifters from the outset, rather than buying dcdoug's used items.

I've had a closer look at the other lifters that I took out of the engine and they're worn flat on the cam end, rather than having the necessary convex profile, so they were all on the way out.

Paul
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  #67 (permalink)  
Old 01-01-2018, 01:49 PM
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The link doesn't work Paul.

I've searched Summit for "dumbbell" and I can't find that either.

Gary
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  #68 (permalink)  
Old 01-01-2018, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Gaz64 View Post
I've searched Summit for "dumbbell" and I can't find that either.

Gary
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  #69 (permalink)  
Old 01-02-2018, 01:19 AM
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Dumbbell.. :-)
They have a reduced diameter (neck) from halfway to a quarter up to save weight.
Actually look like a mini dumbbell.
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  #70 (permalink)  
Old 01-02-2018, 02:46 AM
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Update...

I'm now talking to Brent about a custom ground cam rather than using Doug's old cam, so I think I'll be going down that route instead.

Anyone want a Holman + Moody cam and followers?

Paul
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  #71 (permalink)  
Old 01-02-2018, 02:50 AM
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Dumbbell.. :-)
They have a reduced diameter (neck) from halfway to a quarter up to save weight.
Actually look like a mini dumbbell.
They appear to be the standard/original type for FE's although most of the suppliers now seem to sell the lighter hollow shell type and use longer pushrods.

If I were starting from scratch, I'd probably go down the shell route, but as my top-end has been setup for the dumb-bell type, I'll stick with those.

Paul
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  #72 (permalink)  
Old 01-02-2018, 02:56 PM
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Yes Paul, I thought that's what we are talking about here, wasted at the middle.

Looks like a dumbbell, just never heard referenced in that manner.

Lightweight solid lifters makes more sense for me, .

Gary

Last edited by Gaz64; 01-02-2018 at 03:00 PM..
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  #73 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2018, 06:12 AM
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Update:

I gave up on the original idea of using Doug's used H&M cam and followers and Brent spec'ed up a new cam for me specifically for my engine and intended use.

This is what he came up with:

...........................Intake................. ..........Exhaust
Total Lift:.............. 589" ............................ 600"
Duration @ .050":.. 242" .............................244"

Valve Timing @ .050": ........ Open ........................ Close
Inlet: .............................. 17 BTDC ................... 45 ABDC
Exhaust: ......................... 58 BBDC .................... 6 ATDC
Intake Centreline: .......... 104 degrees
LSA: ............................ 110 degrees

The engine is now all back together and back in the car and the dreaded cam break-in procedure has been done, so I'm now ready to hit the road, apart from one thing........me!

A couple of weeks ago I managed to totally detach my left bicep while at the gym. I needed surgery to reattach it, which involved drilling an 8mm hole into my Radius bone and fastening the loose end on my bicep into it with screws and a metal "button" on the back to prevent it pulling through.

I can lift nothing heavier than a cup of tea for 4 weeks and then I can very slowly start adding some weight.

I'm hoping to be able to start driving again in a couple of weeks.

Thank you everyone for your help, especially Brent, who was very helpful and patient with my endless questions.

Paul

Last edited by FatBoy; 04-16-2018 at 06:16 AM..
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  #74 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2018, 03:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FatBoy View Post
Update:

I gave up on the original idea of using Doug's used H&M cam and followers and Brent spec'ed up a new cam for me specifically for my engine and intended use.

This is what he came up with:

...........................Intake................. ..........Exhaust
Total Lift:.............. 589" ............................ 600"
Duration @ .050":.. 242" .............................244"

Valve Timing @ .050": ........ Open ........................ Close
Inlet: .............................. 17 BTDC ................... 45 ABDC
Exhaust: ......................... 58 BBDC .................... 6 ATDC
Intake Centreline: .......... 104 degrees
LSA: ............................ 110 degrees

The engine is now all back together and back in the car and the dreaded cam break-in procedure has been done, so I'm now ready to hit the road, apart from one thing........me!

A couple of weeks ago I managed to totally detach my left bicep while at the gym. I needed surgery to reattach it, which involved drilling an 8mm hole into my Radius bone and fastening the loose end on my bicep into it with screws and a metal "button" on the back to prevent it pulling through.

I can lift nothing heavier than a cup of tea for 4 weeks and then I can very slowly start adding some weight.

I'm hoping to be able to start driving again in a couple of weeks.

Thank you everyone for your help, especially Brent, who was very helpful and patient with my endless questions.

Paul
There's a lot of advance ground into that cam.

To give you an idea, it has 6 degrees of advance, take that out, we end up at 11/51 on the inlet, 52/12 on the exhaust.

So depends on what you want the engine to do.

I would like figures of 13/49, 54/10.

But your lift increase will certainly help.

Valve springs to match of course.

Gary
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  #75 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2018, 06:48 AM
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If compression allows, I always grind a lot of advance into my street cams. The throttle response and snap is very much noticeable.

Most of my 110 LSA cams end up on a 104 ICL. My 106 and 108 LSA cams will usually end up at either 102 or 100 ICL, if the piston/valve clearance and the compression ratio will play nice with each other.
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  #76 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2018, 10:35 AM
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I havenít driven it yet, but it sounds great.
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  #77 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2018, 03:30 PM
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That sounds like a painful injury. Hope you have a speedy recovery and get a chance to try it out.
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  #78 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2018, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blykins View Post
If compression allows, I always grind a lot of advance into my street cams. The throttle response and snap is very much noticeable.

Most of my 110 LSA cams end up on a 104 ICL. My 106 and 108 LSA cams will usually end up at either 102 or 100 ICL, if the piston/valve clearance and the compression ratio will play nice with each other.
Yes, I'd like to try that combo one day soon with the next combo of 410+, no hints yet,
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