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Kirkham Motorsports

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Old 04-28-2019, 12:20 PM
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Default First legal drive out & oil leak around remote filter

First drive out with legal plates today.
26 miles later and it seems the gas gauge has gone down rather a lot.
I accidentally left the vacuum advance unplugged from the distributor, so I guess this could affect mpg? The carb would also have been sucking more air than it should.

However, the more awkward problem is a leak around the oil filter - some spray under the bonnet and an oil coating on the remote limes and chassis. I have tightened as much as i dare with a socket on the underside of the filter. Any suggestions?
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Old 04-28-2019, 03:16 PM
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It might not be the filter, but rather the oil cooler line connections. Make sure that they are snug. I was having some problem with mixing steel fittings (AN to NPT) with aluminum fittings on the lines. They expand at different rates and may loosen when heated. Make sure that the AN to NPT fittings are aluminum if your AN fittings are aluminum.
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Old 04-28-2019, 03:37 PM
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Thanks, but no oil cooler on my car.
I also got rid of the aiuminum fittings and replaced with pates steel.
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Old 04-28-2019, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinW View Post
First drive out with legal plates today.
26 miles later and it seems the gas gauge has gone down rather a lot.
I accidentally left the vacuum advance unplugged from the distributor, so I guess this could affect mpg? The carb would also have been sucking more air than it should.

However, the more awkward problem is a leak around the oil filter - some spray under the bonnet and an oil coating on the remote limes and chassis. I have tightened as much as i dare with a socket on the underside of the filter. Any suggestions?
Kevin I am assuming you have the remote oil filter....I have had leaks at the block where the remote filter adapter attaches - 427Charlie fixed it by pulling the adapter off and resealing it with some Permatex. If you are leaking up top at the filter then a) check the lines and fittings as suggested above and b) pull the filter off and make sure the rubber gasket is not cut and that the sealing surface on the filter mount is clean and has no burrs....either way you should be able to see where it is coming from with the engine running..
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Old 04-28-2019, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinW View Post
First drive out with legal plates today.
26 miles later and it seems the gas gauge has gone down rather a lot.
I accidentally left the vacuum advance unplugged from the distributor, so I guess this could affect mpg? The carb would also have been sucking more air than it should.

However, the more awkward problem is a leak around the oil filter - some spray under the bonnet and an oil coating on the remote limes and chassis. I have tightened as much as i dare with a socket on the underside of the filter. Any suggestions?
The hex on the bottom of a K&N is for removing only.

The rubber seal should be smeared with a light coat of engine oil on assembly, hand tighten about 2/3 turn after seal contact.

If you have a leak across this junction, then removal and further inspection is required.
Wash down your current leak with brake cleaner, and run it again to pinpoint the leak. You may need to add a fluro dye to the oil.

Gary
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Last edited by Gaz64; 04-28-2019 at 06:38 PM..
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Old 04-28-2019, 06:05 PM
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You should not have to tighten the filter more than hand tight.
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Old 04-28-2019, 09:06 PM
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I'm no expert on 427's, but I experienced leaks right after I competed repair of my car from inadequate ventilation of the engine, resulting in internal pressure that forced oil out. Just a thought! Bob
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Old 04-28-2019, 11:04 PM
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Thanks all for your useful responses.
I have a spare oil filter cartridge, so I will remove the current item and re-seat the new one, as i suspect its over-tightened anyway. I had a feeling that I should not have to be tightening it too much.

There is a small amount of oil pooling on the thread/inner ridge of the oil filter where it screws on to the remote casting, so I am sure this is at least one source of the leak. It doesn't seem to spray or get worse when idling, so assume this is spreading when under load/speed.

I have a hose connection from one rocker cover to the carb manifold vac, the other rocker cover has a ventilated filler for adding oil, so i guess the ventilation issue should be OK?
Once the car is warmed up it runs around 30 psi oil pressure at tickover, going up to 60-80 psi under acceleration. Is this too much pressure internal pressure? Its a newly rebuilt engine.

On another thread, I realised I plugged the vac advance into the ported vacuum connection on the Holley, so need to swap this to full manifold vacuum, but ignoring poor mpg and temperatures, I don't think this would have an effect on the oil leak?
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Old 04-29-2019, 08:57 AM
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Kevin, I don't want to send you in an unjustified direction, but it would not hurt to measure the "crankcase", or internal pressure of the engine at 3000-4000 RPM. This is NOT related to Oil pressure. Engines generate a certain amount of pressure from naturally imperfect cylinder sealing, and crank rotation. That's why engines require venting. I use a vacuum/pressure gauge placed on the oil filler tube. There is usually a cone-shaped rubber adapter that accompanies your compression gauge that provides a good seal. Hold the gauge tightly on the tube, while someone throttles the engine. The big block experts can suggest a maximum allowable pressure, but I would say the pressure will be zero if your venting system is adequate. Remember that flow is no greater than the smallest orifice within your vent system. You can have 3/4" tubing, but restricted flow due to the internal diameter of the fittings. Again, experienced big block guy's may be rolling their eyes over this reply, because there is a common problem associated with 427's that I am not aware of. Many of the big block engines I see have braided or rubber lines from each ventilated valve cover cap routed to a small capture tank mounted on the firewall to insure there is no internal pressure. Don't get whacked out over this suggested cause for your oil leak! Just check to see that your present venting method isn't causing excessive crankcase pressure. These forum threads have to be carefully vetted! Everybody has THE answer!y
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Old 04-29-2019, 10:56 AM
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Thanks Robert. I'll need to locate a compression gauge, as the unit I have on loan only measures vacuum.
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Old 04-29-2019, 12:32 PM
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Typically it is the pipe threads in the remote oil filter adapter casting that leak. I have also seen porous castings. Locktite will fix the thread leak problem better than anything else I have tried.
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Old 04-29-2019, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
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Thanks Robert. I'll need to locate a compression gauge, as the unit I have on loan only measures vacuum.
You don't need a compression gauge to measure any form of crankcase pressure.

If the venting system is inadequate, pressure will only rise to a point where the lip seals on crankshaft etc will allow pressure release.

I have two low pressure gauges, one reads to 12 in. Hg, 160 in. water (vacuum), the other reads to 1 inch Hg, 13 inches water (pressure).

Anybody running a big engine with 3/8 vent hoses should be increasing the largest hose to 3/4 or even 1 inch. Large hoses flow more air in total, but slower at any point which helps keeps the oil in the engine.

Gary

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