Oil Cooler Adapter Oil Leak

[Whodeeny]

I have been struggling with an oil leak around the adapter that bolts to the block where the oil filter was mounted. I have a steady drip about every 1 or 2 seconds. I have removed the adapter, cleaned the gasket surfaces of the adapter and block, checked the adapter for cracks or abnormalities and having found none reassembled the adapter with a new gasket. This time I used VersaChem gasket sealant (non-hardening) on the block and adapter gasket surfaces. I torqued the adapter mounting bolts to about 15 ft-lbs. When it continued to leak I tightened the bolts a little more. Still it leaked. The gasket was originally assembled dry. After all these efforts it still leaks. The block is a BBM 427SO cast iron block. What am I missing here? This can't be rocket science! Does anybody reading this have any ideas or have you a similar experience? Below is a picture of the adapter mounted to the block with the oil cooler lines.

[spdbrake]

From what I can see the swivel on the 90 hose end appears wet.
Also that look like a AN -10 hose to 90 then integral 1/2npt end.
Like this https://www.summitracing.com/parts/e...0erl/overview/

You want to try a different hose end setup. Like a straight 90 -10 AN like this
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-21910/overview/

To a -10AN to 1/2"NPT. like this
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/e...0erl/overview/

[Whodeeny]

Originally Posted by spdbrake

From what I can see the swivel on the 90 hose end appears wet.
Also that look like a AN -10 hose to 90 then integral 1/2npt end.
Like this https://www.summitracing.com/parts/e...0erl/overview/

You want to try a different hose end setup. Like a straight 90 -10 AN like this
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/vpe-21910/overview/

To a -10AN to 1/2"NPT. like this
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/e...0erl/overview/

My initial thought was the hose fittings also but now I don't think the leak is coming from the hose. It appears to me to be coming from the flange area where the gasket is or one of the bolt holes. The threads around the hose fittings are not wet with oil but the flange area is.

[spdbrake]

You're probably right. I was focused on the swivel groove above the castellations.

For wicking leaks, cleaning the area with Electrical contact cleaner or Carb cleaner (allow to dry fully) then coating the areas with an Aluminum or Powder Anti-antiperspirant will usually show the path(s).

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Whodeeny

My initial thought was the hose fittings also but now I don't think the leak is coming from the hose. It appears to me to be coming from the flange area where the gasket is or one of the bolt holes. The threads around the hose fittings are not wet with oil but the flange area is.

Bolt holes are notorious for leaking on a remote filter adaptor. Mine are loaded up with gasket sealant so that it is goo-ing out of all four bolts holes. But when I looked at the picture I thought it was leaking from the fitting too. If you wrap the fitting tight with a paper towel, and then run the engine for 30 seconds, and unwrap the paper towel, it should be dry as a bone. I have Teflon tape on the threads of both lines going in to my adaptor. Of course, using UV dye with a black light will tell you instantly exactly where the oil is coming out.

[Whodeeny]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Bolt holes are notorious for leaking on a remote filter adaptor. Mine are loaded up with gasket sealant so that it is goo-ing out of all four bolts holes. But when I looked at the picture I thought it was leaking from the fitting too. If you wrap the fitting tight with a paper towel, and then run the engine for 30 seconds, and unwrap the paper towel, it should be dry as a bone. I have Teflon tape on the threads of both lines going in to my adaptor. Of course, using UV dye with a black light will tell you instantly exactly where the oil is coming out.

I put Teflon tape on the threads of the hose fittings. Your comment about the bolt holes leaking is interesting. As I looked at it leaking I thought the leak may be coming from the bolt holes but I wondered how that could be. What kind of gasket sealant did you use on the bolts? I posted the picture above so that readers would know what I was talking about. Here is another picture with the engine running and the leak.

[patrickt]

I believe it is that black "ultra maximum oil resistant" Permatex RTV stuff. Here's a pic:

[spdbrake]

On you last photo it appears the upper (oil out hi-press) port is leaking. Could be cracked from the NPT fitting. (see right yellow arrow) Or as Patrick alluded to the bolt. (see left yellow arrow) Red arrow is gravity.





Just idea, you may want to swap to a different adapter.
http://www.hylube.com/products/feadapter.htm

[Jerry Clayton]

AN fittings are 37* and SAE are 45*----------They don't mix!!!!!!!!!!

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Jerry Clayton

AN fittings are 37* and SAE are 45*----------They don't mix!!!!!!!!!!

And I think most of us are using this guy: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...SABEgKp2vD_BwE

[dacobb]

Originally Posted by patrickt

And I think most of us are using this guy: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/t...SABEgKp2vD_BwE

Only 2 of 5 stars.

No wonder it leaks.

[HTM101]

I've been dealing with an oil leak in the same area. In the past, all fittings were tight, and the bolts weren't leaking as those bolt holes are blind in my alloy block. The leak was coming from somewhere around the perimeter of the adapter.

I found another adapter on the internet that has more surface contact area against the block. I also applied a very slight amount of Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket on both sides of the gasket. I haven't tested the new adapter and gasket yet, I'm about 3-4 days from first start-up for this season.

[blykins]

The BBM blocks have a drill-through on the top left oil filter adapter bolt hole. It intersects the main oil galley that runs the length of the block.

You will need to remove that bolt, put a little silicone in the hole, then silicone around the bolt head.

This is the kinda thing that we have to watch out for with aftermarket parts. It’s a very tiny hole that’s broken through, but with 70 psi behind it, it will leak quick.

This is why I prime the oil pump on the stand, before the engine is started.

[blykins]

It’s already broken through, that’s why it’s leaking. Two BBM blocks that I have here are like that. I caught one when I primed it. The hole isn’t that big, prob .060” or so, but it’s enough.

The fix is what I described up above. Put some silicone in the hole, put some under the bolt head and washer.

I also think you could get a short 5/16-18 set screw, coat it in silicone, then screw it all the way in until it bottoms out, then bolt the adapter on.

[hauss]

Try recto seal #5 and the permatex ultra black I have had many leaks on my car and have had no issues after properly applying the products mentioned .

[GT350Mike]

Originally Posted by blykins

It’s already broken through, that’s why it’s leaking. Two BBM blocks that I have here are like that. I caught one when I primed it. The hole isn’t that big, prob .060” or so, but it’s enough.

The fix is what I described up above. Put some silicone in the hole, put some under the bolt head and washer.

I also think you could get a short 5/16-18 set screw, coat it in silicone, then screw it all the way in until it bottoms out, then bolt the adapter on.

Brent, does this fix the oil adapter leaks on just the BBM blocks or does it also apply to OEM SO blocks? I don't think my Precision Oil Pump adapter has any stress cracks so either my steel hydraulic hose fittings are leaking or it's coming from the upper left bolt.

[blykins]

Factory blocks are not drilled through. We normally don't have issues with factory stuff. The aftermarket stuff can be challenging. The BBM blocks have holes that have been drilled too deep and the older Pond blocks aren't drilled deep enough.

You probably have a fitting that leaks, or a spot where the gasket is not intact.

[AC Ventura]

Although the silicon might work until it fails, it’s not designed to resist oil under pressure and doesn’t lend itself to quick reassembly. Therefore instead of a fix, a proper engineered solution is needed to enable a long term peace of mind. If I understand this right, somewhere along the thread in the block, an oil galley hole has broken through and oil is escaping along the threads and finally, under the tightened bolt head that, has of course no real seal. In this case, I would carefully drill then ream the first few threads out of the offending tapped hole. Hopefully there will be 3/16-5/16 before you get to the oil hole Then I would machine an O-ring groove in the plain part of the bolt shaft, such that when screwed in the (suitably specified) O-ring will engage with the short reamed bore and form a proper seal between the block and the bolt shaft. Obviously you must remove all swarf and you can prevent it entering the engine, by putting a grub screw in first, the blow it out with an air gun. I truly sympathise with the OP’s predicament. Good luck and don’t forget to remove the screw!
If that’s not possible, I’d consider a longer bolt and use a steel washer, sandwiched between two copper washers, that did up against the outside of the adaptor block and not the counterbore. Copper washers are used on brake unions, so they’d sure resist oil pressure.

[ERA 626]

Use liquid teflon!!

Joe the builder at Shelby Engine Co has built hundreds of FEs and this is what he uses. I tried it and BOOM it worked.
https://www.amazon.com/Rectorseal-Tr...gateway&sr=8-8
I still have a leak around the base of the adaptor. I have tried everything, I think I will try this
www.HYLUBE.com- Remote Filtration/ Wet Sump Systems- Chatsworth, Ca.

[ERA 626]

great thread!!